Ok, use a #2 square drive and remove the cover on the thermostat. Then, flip the blade over center. This takes the thermostat out of the equation. If it still isn't rocking, the cap/pipe or combustor is plugged or fuel is the issue.
NOTE: FLIP BLADE BACK TO NORMAL POSITION AND TURN KNOB UNTIL BLADE IS COMPLETELY HORIZON. THEN, INSTALL THERMOSTAT COVER.
OkGet the Videos – Blaze King
For some people, seeing is believing. That’s why we’ve created a video gallery to showcase some of our favorite blazeking projects.www.blazeking.com
Watch the How It works video...good animation to help you better understand.
BKVP
Just to be clear you're ok with me taking this cover off as long I don't start taking things apart. And I agree I don't see how something could have gotten anything in the intake
NOTE: FLIP BLADE BACK TO NORMAL POSITION AND TURN KNOB UNTIL BLADE IS COMPLETELY HORIZON. THEN, INSTALL THERMOSTAT COVER.
BKVP
That sounds like a good idea, maybe after this warm stretch is over. I want you to see it run when it gets down in the 20s again.Fireboss, I’m not too far from you, if you’d like, I can come and check out you’re situation and give you some pointers as to what to expect from you’re BK going foreward..
I‘ve been burning my King for 8 seasons now, so I think I could help ya ??
Or if you wanna just talk send me a pm with your number and I’ll give you a call..
I don't know what an OAK isSorry if it’s been mentioned in the thread and I missed it, but you don’t have an OAK hooked up do you? The stove without an OAK it would be hard to block the air intake, but with an OAK it would be easy.
Stove killer said; The dark box is fine; these stoves are able to run like that. In fact the majority of my burning is like that. The cat gauge seems fine too.I'd never burn 10 minutes with the bypass open unless the cat was below the active zone (as in start up). If the cat is in the active zone, just close the bypass as soon as the door is closed. No need otherwise. To get the fire going stronger for charring, set the Tstat higher (fully open).
A damaged bypass area would not let in more air, it might leak smoke out, meaning you'd get smoke out of the firebox that did not get thru the catalyst.
The dark box is fine; these stoves are able to run like that. In fact the majority of my burning is like that. The cat gauge seems fine too.
@stoveliker I know it's a typo but funny, none the less.Stove killer
Yea sorry for that Stove Liker not stove killer sorry...@stoveliker I know it's a typo but funny, none the less.
Yup, that will kill the draft big time.I failed to install the clean out tee cap
In my head I worried any creosote would fall down and collect right in front of my stove discharge and cause a fire. ( I lived through a chimney fire scary stuff.) But this stove make minimal ashYup, that will kill the draft big time.
Especially as it's the easier way for the air to flow up the flue instead of through the stove.
And Physics always chooses the easiest way.
Good find, better late than never.UPDATE.......Last year I complained about my woodstove not buring or maintaining temp in the house. Well come to find out I failed to install the clean out tee cap when installing the stainless liner. In my defense the directions nor the video said to. But it apparently was short circuiting my draft. Since I was able to block up that clean out port the stove has much performed better.
FB post solved it for meGood find, better late than never.
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