Seasoned wood charring, cant keep temps in house up

[all night moe]

A mix of wood species is probably in order. The faster burning will help ignite the dense wood splits. It helps to burn down the coals too.

 

[fireboss1237]

Okay,.good.
If it's a freestanding stove, it'll be in the middle of the back, on the bottom. But it may be hard to figure out if there is something farther into the air path. Be careful sticking something up there; don't damage the thermostat at the top back. (Again, if it's a free standing one)

I'll take a look

 

[BKVP]

I'm my 27 years, never has the air intake been reported as "plugged" or "blocked".

BKVP

 

[fireboss1237]

I'm my 27 years, never has the air intake been reported as "plugged" or "blocked".

BKVP

Well I don't know what to tell you. I will try another moisture meter, and if I get up top and the top of the flue is clean then I'm out of ideas. You have all the info and pictures.

 

[BKVP]

By chance, does smoke spill when loading?

Did it previously if yes?

We had a guy many years ago trying to burn cottonwood and he could not get any meaningful heat and fire hard to make aggressive even on high. He grabbed a few oak pallets, burned the slats and Stove rock and rolled.

Gently blow out the combustor and check cap as you plan on doing. That should help identify the culprit.

BKVP

 

[all night moe]

We had a guy many years ago trying to burn cottonwood and he could not get any meaningful heat and fire hard to make aggressive even on high. He grabbed a few oak pallets, burned the slats and Stove rock and rolled

That could be the culprit and makes sense.
I'm definitely leaning towards wood species.

 

[stoveliker]

If pallets are not around, a few biobricks would be a simple change to a fuel that's dry and has decent BTUs too.

 

[kennyp2339]

What are the chances through time the t-star knob has worked itself to be in the closed position, ie: when the stove is turned all the way up the knob shows maximum setting but it’s really only 1/2way

 

[BC_Josh]

What are the chances through time the t-star knob has worked itself to be in the closed position, ie: when the stove is turned all the way up the knob shows maximum setting but it’s really only 1/2way

Yes, I was wondering if it wasn't a thermostat issue.

 

[fireboss1237]

What are the chances through time the t-star knob has worked itself to be in the closed position, ie: when the stove is turned all the way up the knob shows maximum setting but it’s really only 1/2way

I thought it was the thermostat, but it's 2 years old, I dont really mess with it enough to break it. And the BK rep said if it closes when it's supposed (makes a clicking sound) then the whole things good

 

[BC_Josh]

I thought it was the thermostat, but it's 2 years old, I dont really mess with it enough to break it. And the BK rep said if it closes when it's supposed (makes a clicking sound) then the whole things good

but how hot do you run it at times? How high does the needle go when you're doing an initial hot burn? The reason I ask is that I warped my catalyst plate cover a little. Was running it full bore too much! Maybe this would cause the coil spring to be damaged?

 

[fireboss1237]

but how hot do you run it at times? How high does the needle go when you're doing an initial hot burn? The reason I ask is that I warped my catalyst plate cover a little. Was running it full bore too much! Maybe this would cause the coil spring to be damaged?

I don't know if my initial post mentioned this. But I usually do the normal 20 min on high during initial burn. When adding wood I don't normally touch thermostat just leave the door cracked and bypass open until the wood is burning decent. Before all this started my normal thermostat setting was 25 to 33% or 2 to3 o'clock on the knob. Catalyst is clean (see pictures pn previous page) unless there is a blockage up top I can't see from the bottom... I don't know what else it could be. But the thermostat or intake. BK says those 2 things are the least likely. Just added some 14% wood let's see if the stove goes dark after I shut the bypass again

 

[stoveliker]

If the cat was.in the active zone, don't leave the door open. Too much room T air on a hot cat will create thermal shock delaminating the coating that contains the active elements.

Reload, close the door, thermostat fully open, if need be leave the bypass open a few minutes (but not too long or things might get damaged there too!), close the bypass as soon as there is good flame.

On a hot reload I never burn with the bypass open. It closes right after I close the door.

 

[BKVP]

When you turn the knob, does the rod turn as well? If so 99% chance not the thermostat.

BKVP

 

[fireboss1237]

This is after a ripping fire for 20 mins. 10 mins of bypass open and measured 14% moisture wood. Thermostat Turned down to 45ish%.... notice how dark it is. I've burned this stove for 2 years I know I sound picky. Something is different. I have the fan about half. I'll let you know in am hour what the fire and the active zone is showing

 

[fireboss1237]

When you turn the knob, does the rod turn as well? If so 99% chance not

Yes...just posted an update with photos

 

[fireboss1237]

If the cat was.in the active zone, don't leave the door open. Too much room T air on a hot cat will create thermal shock delaminating the coating that contains the active elements.

Reload, close the door, thermostat fully open, if need be leave the bypass open a few minutes (but not too long or things might get damaged there too!), close the bypass as soon as there is good flame.

On a hot reload I never burn with the bypass open. It closes right after I close the door.

Hot reloads bypass door may be open anywhere from 30s to 10 mins depending on how much I load up. If it was the bypass door damage wouldn't it let more air in and help burn?

 

[stoveliker]

I'd never burn 10 minutes with the bypass open unless the cat was below the active zone (as in start up). If the cat is in the active zone, just close the bypass as soon as the door is closed. No need otherwise. To get the fire going stronger for charring, set the Tstat higher (fully open).

A damaged bypass area would not let in more air, it might leak smoke out, meaning you'd get smoke out of the firebox that did not get thru the catalyst.

The dark box is fine; these stoves are able to run like that. In fact the majority of my burning is like that. The cat gauge seems fine too.

 

[kennyp2339]

Your on high setting, that fire box should be ripping, I’d suggest taking the stove pipe off and making sure the area in the cat chamber is free of debris that could be suffocating your draft

 

[fireboss1237]

I'd never burn 10 minutes with the bypass open unless the cat was below the active zone (as in start up). If the cat is in the active zone, just close the bypass as soon as the door is closed. No need otherwise. To get the fire going stronger for charring, set the Tstat higher (fully open).

The dark box is fine; these stoves are able to run like that. In fact the majority of my burning is like that. The cat gauge seems fine totoo.

10 mins is only on low active zone reloads.

I dont ever remember it being this dark when buring it at a 3rd open on TStat.. also don't remember burning past 75% even in the teens. It's 70 in here right now let's see if it can maintain that for 4 hours at 40% state positions

 

[fireboss1237]

Your on high setting, that fire box should be ripping, I’d suggest taking the stove pipe off and making sure the area in the cat chamber is free of debris that could be suffocating your draft

The dark photo is at 45% I think it should be a little brighter at least. At 100% there is visible fire. But not what you'd expect. IDK I don't think I'm crazy something seems different. It's 27 here not 7 let's see if it maintains current room temp

 

[BKVP]

I think there may be an issue. Is the rear wall real brick? I wonder if the lack of 6" clearance could be reflecting back at the stove thermostat and shutting it down?

BKVP

 

[fireboss1237]

I think there may be an issue. Is the rear wall real brick? I wonder if the lack of 6" clearance could be reflecting back at the stove thermostat and shutting it down?

BKVP

Isn't the thermostat manual? Also in 2 years it hasnt been an issue. The bricks are cool to the touch. I know you're trying.

50% seems to maintain 70F . It's 26F, I can't remember, every detail from last year. But I think 50% should be able to give me a degree or 2. Running it all out. Will give me 5 more degrees. But then I only get 6 hour burns and then the active zone starts dropping. Even at 100% I think 75 is low for a 2400sqft stove in a 1700 house. The back side if the house is cool, but I like it that way so not complaining. Again I know you're really trying to help, but something is off.

I have a big ass fan literally 6 feet wide in the next room...OPEN FLOOR PLAN. Only thing different from last year is the fan. It's moving air slightly so if anything it's helping.

 

[BKVP]

Ok, use a #2 square drive and remove the cover on the thermostat. Then, flip the blade over center. This takes the thermostat out of the equation. If it still isn't rocking, the cap/pipe or combustor is plugged or fuel is the issue.

NOTE: FLIP BLADE BACK TO NORMAL POSITION AND TURN KNOB UNTIL BLADE IS COMPLETELY HORIZON. THEN, INSTALL THERMOSTAT COVER.

BKVP

 

[fireboss1237]

Ok, use a #2 square drive and remove the cover on the thermostat. Then, flip the blade over center. This takes the thermostat out of the equation. If it still isn't rocking, the cap/pipe or combustor is plugged or fuel is the issue.

NOTE: FLIP BLADE BACK TO NORMAL POSITION AND TURN KNOB UNTIL BLADE IS COMPLETELY HORIZON. THEN, INSTALL THERMOSTAT COVER.

BKVP

Will try tomorrow