I think the insert and free stander are the same, you just dont attach the legs if you use as an insert.Have you looked at a kuma sequoia insert? When I was looking I found those to be about the largest insert I could find.
Thanks, I hadn't seen that before. I will look into it. Appreciate the tip.I think the insert and free stander are the same, you just dont attach the legs if you use as an insert.
The stove will be halfway out of the (very high) firebox and the ceilings are high and I have large (cold) windows so I was thinking that as long as I have the chimney/flue well sealed, I will get a lot of natural convection currents flowing into and around the room because of the different temperature gradients. I am sure it would be more effective & efficient with a blower (which is why I was thinking of the BK Sirocco) but aesthetically the IS works better... I am going for all black with blank black steel side panels -- so I get the industrial look in black.What will you be using to convect the heat?
Hi, I am in Temple which is about an hour west of you out 101 before Peterborough; people who work in the Nashua area will usually come west to Temple; if you have any recommendations for chimney pros, I would appreciate it. I guess there is a private conversation function that you can use to send to me. thanks very much for taking the time!I'm also in southern NH with a house very similar. We're heading about 3,500sf and our stove room has 16' ceilings with an entire wall made out of glass.
What part of Southern nh? I'm in Windham and I know a few chimney guys and wood guys with aged wood
I think I have 41”+/- from the front of the hearth to the back of the fireplace. With a top vent there is no need for ember protection on the floor as I meet the 16” door to front of hearth requirement. Choose cat or non cat first. That will help you narrow down your choices. If it were my fireplace I would put in a Jøtul F600 top vent. Looking at you dimensions is seems like a plausible fit. You have a fresh air intake I would take advantage of that and hook it up to the stove. I would install a block off plate too.
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With an opening that big you will be able to see the liner and they are not very athletic so that should be addressed, not sure how maybe someone else here can help. My first thought would be pre-insulated liner painted black with stove or grill paint. As for a blower I have one sitting on the fireplace floor with the ash pan you can’t even tell it’s there. I really like the ash pan BTW. Just my two cents. Evan
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Woodstock makes good stoves, but there is the caveat that none have a blower option. In this circumstance a blower will make a significant difference in convecting the heat. This can help deliver more heat more evenly in a big space, especially when used in conjunction with a ceiling fan.
Convection is usually preferable with a stove in a fireplace and especially with a high ceiling. The masonry is going to soak up a lot of the radiant heat. However, seeing this is an interior fireplace a ceiling fan may provide adequate circulation of the warm air.Umm... my understanding is that the soapstone ones heat by radiation, and do not need a blower
Convection is usually preferable with a stove in a fireplace and especially with a high ceiling. The masonry is going to soak up a lot of the radiant heat. However, seeing this is an interior fireplace a ceiling fan may provide adequate circulation of the warm air.
Hmm... Does that mean that the most energy efficient installation would be to line my firebox and flue block with a reflective radiant barrier (foil-like) which would reflect the radiant heat back into the room rather than heating the fireplace/chimney mass? (Not sure this would be aesthetically acceptable to me, but just curious about the hypothetical.)Convection is usually preferable with a stove in a fireplace and especially with a high ceiling. The masonry is going to soak up a lot of the radiant heat. However, seeing this is an interior fireplace a ceiling fan may provide adequate circulation of the warm air.
Hmm... Does that mean that the most energy efficient installation would be to line my firebox and flue block with a reflective radiant barrier (foil-like) which would reflect the radiant heat back into the room rather than heating the fireplace/chimney mass? (Not sure this would be aesthetically acceptable to me, but just curious about the hypothetical.)
The Ideal Steel has a bottom heat shield and an optional rear heat shield; if those are designed to reflect radiant heat then that (especially the rear one) would be good for me to include... I guess I can contact Woodstock to find out the engineering rationale for those heat shields.On the hypothetical side I note my Woodstock Progress hybrid has heat shield in back, which reduces radiation into the hearth...
If you are not irradiating the hearth, does the original argument hold?
I guess I can contact Woodstock to find out the engineering rationale for those heat shields.
my first guess would be to reduce clearance to combustibles.
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