Princess not as hot as could be!
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If the wood from the store burns well, and sawdust bricks burn well, then your firewood is the obvious problem. I'd restack the wood you have to make sure it gets lots of air and the splits are small enough. Pull off loose bark and remove leaves and debris from the stacks. Cover the top of the stack with something rigid and put the whole stack in an open location where the wind can pass through, or at least move the stack a foot or two away from the fence. Leave space between each row of splits so air can move through. I think you can make a big improvement in the firewood before next winter.
BKVP
Minister of Fire
I might add the following. All comments related to fuel quality are spot on. However, I would add that just because a stove does not spill smoke when it is reloaded, does not mean the draft is optimal. It just means that it's enough to avoid spillage.
The suggestion of adding some length to the chimney should be considered. If the draft is .06 w.c. with a high winds, then it's probably well below that with no wind. We whole heartdely recommend .04-.06 w.c. without any wind.
We receive dozens of testimonials each month as the performance enhancement owners see with our products when draft is optimal (think fine-tuned). With more draft, this user will be able to take advanatge of the lower burn rates and when the fuel load deminishes to the point that the stack temps drop, the added draft will help reduce those coals to ash by giving it a boost.
Second, this is a mobile home install, correct? If so, single wall pipe, regardless of length, is not permitted by codes any where we are aware of. The double wall black stove pipe should run stove to ceiling support box and then the all fuel from that point to the cap.
While I'm at it, it was great meeting BeGreen at Hearth Expo. Thank you BeGreen for your comments. I would very much like to meet more of this websites contributors over time. I have met Webby and maybe a few others.
I travel quite extensively, so if you shoot me a PM as to where you reside, I will create a list for my future travels. My company credit card still has room for a few beers!
The suggestion of adding some length to the chimney should be considered. If the draft is .06 w.c. with a high winds, then it's probably well below that with no wind. We whole heartdely recommend .04-.06 w.c. without any wind.
We receive dozens of testimonials each month as the performance enhancement owners see with our products when draft is optimal (think fine-tuned). With more draft, this user will be able to take advanatge of the lower burn rates and when the fuel load deminishes to the point that the stack temps drop, the added draft will help reduce those coals to ash by giving it a boost.
Second, this is a mobile home install, correct? If so, single wall pipe, regardless of length, is not permitted by codes any where we are aware of. The double wall black stove pipe should run stove to ceiling support box and then the all fuel from that point to the cap.
While I'm at it, it was great meeting BeGreen at Hearth Expo. Thank you BeGreen for your comments. I would very much like to meet more of this websites contributors over time. I have met Webby and maybe a few others.
I travel quite extensively, so if you shoot me a PM as to where you reside, I will create a list for my future travels. My company credit card still has room for a few beers!
It was great meeting you too Chris and a treat to see the new Ashfords. The SLC beers were pretty good too.
What are the limits for length of chimney for effective draft? I have enough draft to experience a warm house and burn times between 12-18 hours. But I do have spillage most times. I have about 34 inches of double wall stove pipe from stove top to the middle of the the chimney T including the 90 degree. Then from the t outside I have 18 feet of 2 inch insulated stainless steel chimney. Would two 45 's help with smoke spill?or with the 2 bends would a couple more feet if chimney be in order ?
I added two 45's this year to my set up and it was a huge help with smoke spillage during the shoulder season.
Is there any down side to two 45's.
Also my double wall is the type that had some vents in it, could this cause slower stack temps and less draft?
Also my double wall is the type that had some vents in it, could this cause slower stack temps and less draft?
BKVP
Minister of Fire
Did you explore the option of extending your chimney by 4 feet? The draw collar does seem to help on reload periods or initial firing, yet they shut down once the stack is up to temp. As k your dealer abpout a "loaner" section of pipe...you'll probably see an immediate change.
Sounds like you're headed in the right direction. I'd take notes of your gains and improvements based on the changes you're making. I would still tend to think that your wood not being dry enough is your primary problem, based on your description, earthworms, and the like.
Easiest way I've found is to get some pallets on the ground to raise your wood up, and make sure you have the top covered, especially in the snow and rainy season. I cover my tops completely with pole barn/tin siding that sits on a slope with large 1/2 splits set on top to keep them in place. Keeps everything high and dry until I can get the time to build a really big wood shed. I now have 20 full cords c/s/s with my oldest now going on 3 years, and I can tell you that dry wood is the cornerstone to a good burning experience. A moisture meter on a fresh split will tell you what's going on, just remember to push it into the wood nice and hard. Amazon has one you can search for that works great for the money. Most people don't realize how damp their wood is much of the time.
Best of luck to you!
Easiest way I've found is to get some pallets on the ground to raise your wood up, and make sure you have the top covered, especially in the snow and rainy season. I cover my tops completely with pole barn/tin siding that sits on a slope with large 1/2 splits set on top to keep them in place. Keeps everything high and dry until I can get the time to build a really big wood shed. I now have 20 full cords c/s/s with my oldest now going on 3 years, and I can tell you that dry wood is the cornerstone to a good burning experience. A moisture meter on a fresh split will tell you what's going on, just remember to push it into the wood nice and hard. Amazon has one you can search for that works great for the money. Most people don't realize how damp their wood is much of the time.
Best of luck to you!
My Blaze King princess running about 350° does this look normal. ? About 6you hrs burn time.
![[Hearth.com] Princess not as hot as could be!](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/130/130435-6da4b4718fabcbd208e999bbc261b8a1.jpg?hash=yghZEzK52u "[Hearth.com] Princess not as hot as could be!")
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I apologize. It seems the stove should burn 400/500° for 10 hrs.
Im taking my temps on the face of the stove by the cat. Using a point and shoot meter. I understand my chimney has a lot to do with how the stove runs. However living in a mobile home I have 10' of stack on my roof. Anymore I believe lights are required. Lol. I have burned sawdust bricks. Nice heat cant aford to burn them 8 packs a day. 2.50 a pack. Running stove on about 1 oclock. The cat lights up for 2 hrs nice heat then it stops glowing and temp falls Im getting 6 to 8 burn times per load. I fill 3 recycling bins full of wood per day. In the wood stove.
That's not too bad, I assume that's enough heat for your place. With a better draft it would probably get hotter and stay hotter longer.
blueguy
Feeling the Heat
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