practices in re-wiring kitchen for remodel

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Anybody have any idea how much electricity an under-the-counter range hood uses ? It's like pulling teeth to find the wattage requirements of any of these appliances (you'd think it'd be under "Specifications", but you'd be wrong), but the range hoods are even worse. I've looked at installation manuals from a couple of makers, and they just say "a 15-amp circuit"; at least they don't say a dedicated circuit is preferred. Talk about CYA. Some say 6 amps, but even that is probably ridiculous. No way these things use anywhere close to 720 watts; possibly you can't use LED or CFL in such a warm environment (?), but even with incandescent bulbs, that's silly. I'm not gonna run yet another circuit just for this thing.
 
Nutone lists the product amperage. A 30" 220cfm unit is around 1.8 amps with halogen lighting.
(broken link removed to http://www.nutone.com/products/filter/deluxe-under-cabinet-b065bc32-a0ea-4c0b-888b-fb4c0c1d7d41)
 
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After im done wiring ill blow in cellulose fibre.

Look into expanding foam insulation. There is a product that is "poured" in with a hose that gives very similar benifits to spray foam.

I spray foamed my pole barn and I'll never go back to fiberglass or cellulose.

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Look into expanding foam insulation. There is a product that is "poured" in with a hose that gives very similar benifits to spray foam.
I've heard there are lots of lawsuits with spray foam and the chemicals involved.

But the system where you blow in material (I think they call it BIB, "blown-in batts" ?) is pretty good, but it has to be put in densely enough to not create gaps when it settles. They did it so densely at my place that the drywall guys said they had to use extra screws.
 
Spray foam is just too expensive. Been using blown in cellulose for 25 years and have not found anything to compete with it on a cost to install basis.
only place i wouldnt use it if theres a chance of it getting wet.
 
sprayfoam R value is higher than anything else. 1 inch equals 3.5 fiberglass

the under cabinet exhaust fans draw more power because they are way stronger to try to pull down while the natural heated smoke and steam go up. i've seen 5 to 6 amps and some are 240 volt
 
the under cabinet exhaust fans draw more power because they are way stronger to try to pull down while the natural heated smoke and steam go up. i've seen 5 to 6 amps and some are 240 volt
I think you're confusing the under-cabinet type with the downdraft type (like Jenn-Air).
 
above stove but under the cabinet. depending on the type they range from 120 watts to 380 watts depends on how much power you need the fan to be.
 
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Sheet foam is so much cheaper than spray foam. Whenever a job calls for foam i use sheet foam.
 
I guess it's preference. I had my pole barn bid out both cellulose and spray foam. Spray foam was 40% ($2,000)more than cellulose.

Hidden costs with celluslose includes prep time, air sealing & thermal looses due to settling. I'm not sure how much screwing around I would have to do to get a tight building with cellulose.

I do know extra framing and netting would have been required in my barn to hold up the cellulose.

Spray foam for me was/is a much better option to achieve my goals. I'Il get all my money back in heating & cooling in short order and financially benifit for years to come.

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i'm going to have to find the R value of foam and board foam but i think spray is higher
 
Spray foam may be a better for something like a pole barn but i insulate existing houses with closed wall cavities. Cellulose is really the only choice.
 
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