adding more circuits to my electrical panel ...

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So here is a 3 ton unit with a max breaker size of 31 amps.
Thanks. I can't find good data yet, but I have a hunch it would require heat strips.

But looking at that site, I realized there's another way to go - the top shelf Japanese brands -


Hella more expensive though, but at least qualifies for the $2000 tax credit.
 
Thanks. I can't find good data yet, but I have a hunch it would require heat strips.

But looking at that site, I realized there's another way to go - the top shelf Japanese brands -


Hella more expensive though, but at least qualifies for the $2000 tax credit.
I’m still not sold on viable speed for whole house applications based on a pure value perspective. The one I linked I found a very similar model number SUZ-KA36NAHZ full capacity at 5dF.

[Hearth.com] adding more circuits to my electrical panel ... [Hearth.com] adding more circuits to my electrical panel ...
 
over analyzing....... i'm trying to get something from nothing gezzzzzzz
 
just saying from a contractors point of view i hate working (and most think the same way) for a engineer working for someone that thinks they know best it always turns out that the home owner is disappointed. this guy that does this for a living is not happy and the engineer thinks they can out smart the guy that does this everyday is just saying to the guy that is installing what ever it is they are installing that they are a dummy and you know better than the guy that does it everyday they always try to better the guy that does it everyday just to say that they designed their own system or electrical or plumbing or what have you so as to think that they are the smart guy and you are the dummy
 
I’m still not sold on viable speed for whole house applications based on a pure value perspective. The one I linked I found a very similar model number SUZ-KA36NAHZ full capacity at 5dF.
I believe that PEAD-A36AA air handler is the concealed duct type, not an air handler meant for an existing duct system. But yes, Mitsu has units that can definitely heat down to my design temp and below, but they're quite expensive.

My main reservation about variable speed for a whole-house application is my poorly-balanced duct system; I'm going to see if I can remediate that before making a decision. Since I heat almost entirely with wood (like most of us here), I don't really need to get this new system running until next May or so.
 
I believe that PEAD-A36AA air handler is the concealed duct type, not an air handler meant for an existing duct system. But yes, Mitsu has units that can definitely heat down to my design temp and below, but they're quite expensive.

My main reservation about variable speed for a whole-house application is my poorly-balanced duct system; I'm going to see if I can remediate that before making a decision. Since I heat almost entirely with wood (like most of us here), I don't really need to get this new system running until next May or so.
And since you heat with wood ROI on any extra money spent on efficiency takes twice as long. Get. I’m guessing your heating demand is probably higher because than cooling, so even longer. Get a panel that will power 8kw or 10kw strips and now you don’t have to really worry about heat output at 17 F or lower. Lots of options become available.

This is basically what I have spec wise 3 ton. In a two stage scroll compressor. Top of the line 2009 is now middle of the road. These are probably not sold pre charged so figure that in. If I was in a budget it be looking for something like this. No budget, carrier Infinity, Mitsubishi, or top end Trane. In that order of preference.
 
I thought I'd read that most of the Carrier, Trane, etc is made in China now ? Is that wrong ? (And thus, you should either splurge for Japanese, or go with the less expensive brands like Blueridge, Goodman, ACIQ ...). I also wonder if some of the poor rep of the cheap brands is because they are readily available to the general public (at websites like those linked here) and thus some shoddy install jobs. IOW, yes, name brands like Carrier ARE better, but that's because they are installed by pros.

That being said, I'm willing to pay more, but not more than double, for one of the marquee Japanese brands. I tend to hear that Fujitsu is pretty much equal to Mitsubishi in quality. And this $5643 Fujitsu has specs comparable to the $8652 Mitsubishi:


I don't believe either needs supplemental heat. But it may not be a fallback position - since it's not clear if either of these has provision for heat strips in the air handler; generally these vendors will list it as an optional accessory, if so.
 
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So getting back to my original question, about putting a sub-panel on the wall to the left of the main panel ...
View attachment 315323

I could install a junction box where that romex comes through the ceiling... I could run THHN in conduit from that j-box to the new subpanel ... And I could put a ground bar in the j-box, and only need to run a single EGC down to the subpanel
If I decide to go this route (I've got some reasons to do it this way instead of the the other approach suggested inn post #12), I'm thinking about those 13 pairs of black/white THHN leading from the j-box to the subpanel. Question: there's really no reason I need to keep track of the pairing, is there ? Because the neutrals are all going to the neutral bar in the subpanel. There's no need to know which neutral goes with each hot ? Do I have that right ?
 
If you want to add any Afci breaker you need the paired neutral. I would probably label them now. Easier now than later.
 
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If you're running them in one big raceway, then no issue except what EbS-P mentioned. If you are planning to divvy them up into multiple conduits then each neutral must be run together with its hot in the same pipe.