Oslo Not Maintaining High Temp For Normal Period of Time

[sutphenj]

Bad phrasing on my part, thanks for catching that. I fixed it. Yes, the Oslo and F600 are front and side loaders while the F55 and Ashfords are strictly front loaders. Front loaders are not inherently less radiant. Cast iron jacketed stoves are less radiant than cast iron only stoves like the F600. F500, F400 etc. The cast iron jacket acts like a big heat shield that soaks up the heat into the mass of the cast iron jacket. This heat gets slowly released back into the room as the fire dies down.

Gotcha that makes sense. Yeah the sides of my f55 don't radiate as much as the top and front. It's amazing what a small air gap on that jacket makes.

 

[robalp]

Well, I just tried to lift the cover plate off. I am 6-3 and 220 and I am not a sissie.
I gave a pretty good lift on it, it felt like if I gave it much more horsepower I was going to lift the corner of that stove off the hearth.
It didn't budge. What do you think?

Is the stove pipe supposed to be removed to lift the cover plate.

You can also just reach up and slide the top plate forward or back from the inside. I slid mine back as far as it would go and then just pulled the old piece out and put the new piece in. Took less then 5 minutes. I have never removed the top oval. When I clean the chimney I just slide the plate forward and I can get the contents of the chimney that fall when swept.

 

[semipro]

Two bolts . . . 10 mm I believe . . . for the oval center plate. Access via the front door . . . it can be a tight fit for large hands though. I tend to keep the bolts on the loose side -- hand tight at most so I can easily remove the oval center plate when I clean above the baffle each year . . . or replace the insulation blanket.

As Jake says.
The socket needed is a 10mm.
Once the bolts are loosened the tabs they hold can be rotated to the side to allow the oval top to be removed.
After rotating mine to the side I tightened the bolts to hold them there to allow easier removal of the oval later. It doesn't need to be held down for operation. Gravity and the vacuum your flue creates will do that for you.

 

[Simonkenton]

robalp you are saying, you reach up inside the stove, and slide the entire top piece of cast iron, either backwards, or forward?

How far can you slide it?

 

[robalp]

robalp you are saying, you reach up inside the stove, and slide the entire top piece of cast iron, either backwards, or forward?

How far can you slide it?

You can slide it forward enough to clean the creosote that falls into the baffle on the back where your chimney pipe connects. Just push up on it

 

[semipro]

I

You can slide it forward enough to clean the creosote that falls into the baffle on the back where your chimney pipe connects. Just push up on it

You have to remove some bolts before you can move either the top or oval plate on my Oslo.

 

[CincyBurner]

Same question popped up in 2015 on how to remove Oslo top plate to access the insulation blanket and the burn tubes: https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/oslo-top-question.142046/#post-1935005

 

[robalp]

I

You have to remove some bolts before you can move either the top or oval plate on my Oslo.

on my oslo, there are no bolts that hold the metal plate that sits on top of the secondary burn tubes. You can simply push up on it and slide if forward to clean out the trap after sweeping the chimney.