New to the Forum - Crown Royal 7400MP

[jblnut]

Here's some guessing.

Post #97- An 036 Pro with a LW 24'' Sugi Hara.
#98 pic of your daughter handling the same saw. There's an 044/440 on the right of trailer with a big cc Av series on the left.

Miss Lily is holding my 066 wearing a 32” SugiHara bar. I like that saw 😀

The saw on the right side of the trailer is the 044 pictured above with a heavy Forester bar on it. The one on the left side is an 041AV Super wearing a cheap NeoTec bar. This thing is an absolute tank. A heavy hand numbing boat anchor that I really enjoy running. Something about how it sounds and the torque it has just makes me smile.

 

[all night moe]

Miss Lily is holding my 066 wearing a 32” SugiHara bar. I like that saw 😀
View attachment 336348

The saw on the right side of the trailer is the 044 pictured above with a heavy Forester bar on it. The one on the left side is an 041AV Super wearing a cheap NeoTec bar. This thing is an absolute tank. A heavy hand numbing boat anchor that I really enjoy running. Something about how it sounds and the torque it has just makes me smile.
View attachment 336349

Wow, I was way off thinking 036. I have one and the 066. Have the 440 too. Not sure what thru me off....LOL
Was also off on the AV. Was thinking much bigger than an 041.

Where did you get the Neotech bar? It is a rebranded Oregon LW. Seems Oregon is no longer making this style LW.
My 32'' is a Cannon Super Bar. A bit pricey.

 

[jblnut]

Wow, I was way off thinking 036. I have one and the 066. Have the 440 too. Not sure what thru me off....LOL
Was also off on the AV. Was thinking much bigger than an 041.

Where did you get the Neotech bar? It is a rebranded Oregon LW. Seems Oregon is no longer making this style LW.
My 32'' is a Cannon Super Bar. A bit pricey.

I got the Neotec on Amazon for $35 with three Neotec chains. I had no idea it was made by Oregon. I’d have gotten a few more ! It’s been a great bar so far other than its 063 and my other 24” bars are all 050 so I have three chains for the Neotec bar and around 9753 for the other 24” bars lol

Cannon Super Bars are great. I debated between this SugiHara or a Super Bar and the SugiHara won out. Don’t remember why it won but I sure do like it and would get another in a heartbeat.

 

[all night moe]

I had no idea it was made by Oregon.

The tell tale are the cuts in the interface of the bar and nose sprocket.

I have one Sugi. A 20'' with .325 pitch for my MS261c. Tis my crane saw. Great combo for that alone.
Good power, lightweight, and the 20'' will get me through most of many trees.

 

[sloeffle]

I cut up two totes in under an hour. Not bad for the first run. I think I found my “touch it once” method of cutting, storing and drying wood before shoving it into the boiler. Just gotta find another hundred totes or so lol.

That is my motto too. Luckily, I only burn about 4 cords a year and have 22 totes so I'm setup currently to be about two years ahead. If I could get some more totes for <$30 each I'd jump all over it. In my area a lot of places want $50 each.

 

[jblnut]

That is my motto too. Luckily, I only burn about 4 cords a year and have 22 totes so I'm setup currently to be about two years ahead. If I could get some more totes for <$30 each I'd jump all over it. In my area a lot of places want $50 each.

They can be had here for $25-45 depending on how many and who’s selling them. I found a seller about an hour away that was over the moon excited when I asked him for an estimate on 88 of them. Two loads of 44 each with the 32’ gooseneck and flatbed on the truck combined. He said “anything over 50 , 25/ea”

I have gone through various stages of ideas for firewood and the totes seem to be the most cost effective per cord and most effective per cord as far as drying and handling.

I figure I want to have 30 cord ready to be burnt in case of a tough winter so having 75 or so totes full plus a pile by the stove will easily do that. I have thought about a shed by the stove to pile wood in but it won’t dry in there, a concrete pad behind a barn but it’d be close to $4k for the mud alone to do that, building pallet racking racks but they’d be $175ish per cord of storage, old hay racks but then I have floors and tires to maintain, piling on the dirt but that stinks and even a few old semi van trailers but drying is an issue.

The totes will be in that $75-90/cord and allow lots of air while being easily moved around. Plus I can take them with me wherever I’m cutting and throw wood in them and bring them home full. I like that.

My lawnmower moved them around so I don’t even have to start the skiddy if I don’t want to. I like that as well.

 

[sloeffle]

Might sound like a crazy idea. What about some old grain wagons with some holes cut in the side to help with drying? The only problem I can think of, if the wood might get bridged up from sliding out of the gate. With bigger pieces of wood, you might need an elevator get wood in there.

 

[jblnut]

Might sound like a crazy idea. What about some old grain wagons with some holes cut in the side to help with drying? The only problem I can think of, if the wood might get bridged up from sliding out of the gate. With bigger pieces of wood, you might need an elevator get wood in there.

A gravity box is an interesting idea but like you said, I don’t think it’d be easy to get the stuff back out. A lot of guys around here use old kicker racks and stack the wood 4’ high or so in each one around the sides and pile it inside.

As far as loading goes I have a telehandler that’d easily reach that high. It’ll lift up to the 2nd story of our house.

 

[jblnut]

An ash filled firewood scrounge came to me today !! Two small loads of ash dropped off by a tree service guy. Can’t say no to that.

2nd load had some larger stuff in it. I like burning ash. It lasts waaaaaaaaay longer than the other crap I feed the boiler.

 

[all night moe]

I have gone through various stages of ideas for firewood and the totes seem to be the most cost effective per cord and most effective per cord as far as drying and handling.

Do you have a welder?

If so, how about 2x2'' grating and some angle iron and/or box tubing. Leave one side open and a good base with fork pockets. They could be any size you want and would outlast totes by far.

I have some warehouse 2x2 pallet shelving laying around, tis where i got the idea. I've found some more hanging in some scrap piles and some on CL. As a bonus, our local TSC has 4x8' sheets of it that I think are 2x2 squares. Squares may be a bit bigger. I haven't made any yet...

 

[jblnut]

Do you have a welder?

If so, how about 2x2'' grating and some angle iron and/or box tubing. Leave one side open and a good base with fork pockets. They could be any size you want and would outlast totes by far.

I have some warehouse 2x2 pallet shelving laying around, tis where i got the idea. I've found some more hanging in some scrap piles and some on CL. As a bonus, our local TSC has 4x8' sheets of it that I think are 2x2 squares. Squares may be a bit bigger. I haven't made any yet...

We have a full fledged weld/fab shop in my farm shop. I can make just about anything.

I agree about the durability of the IBC totes but I haven’t really wrecked one yet to the point that it is unusable and I I do it doesn’t take long to shore it back up and make it stackable again. The attraction to the totes is they’re cheap and I can take them with me when cutting offsite and can load them with a small piece of machinery.

Along your line of thinking I built a pair of pallet racking “totes” last summer and filled them up to see how I liked them and how they would work. The idea was to hold around a cord and be able to stack two or three high in a shed with my forklift. This one filled with mostly elm, box elder and other fence line junk weighed around 3500lbs with the wood and rack. Definitely manageable but I’ll need my big skiddy or forklift all the time.

I filled the first one and set the 2nd empty one on top and it still fit perfectly. While carrying the full one to its storage/drying spot the wood was fairly wobbly. I think as it drys it’ll get even more wobbly and may fall out. With this design a back would be needed if I were to want to bring one offsite and haul them home.

 

[all night moe]

If you don't want a full back, some x bracing would suffice.

I'm leaning for firewood sales in the future. Was thinking of minimizing handling without making huge piles and buying a full fledged processor. My plan is for a good commercial grade tow behind splitter for mobility and a conveyor. Split into the back of my dump truck then back up my "tote" to the truck. With the tote still in the air at waist height, I'd raise the dump body to keep the wood coming to me. For this I'd prefer a full back for tilting the tote back a bit. Full cord totes for the less dense woods and half cord totes for dense heavier woods. Stack totes to season. Pick tote up and dump into truck for deliveries.

A bit more work than piles but I like it better this way.

 

[jblnut]

If you don't want a full back, some x bracing would suffice.

It certainly would from a rigid standpoint, but I was also thinking about making them tall enough to walk-through with small roofs on them so I could set them close to each other on the boiler pad and be able to walk as if it were a small shed.

I'm leaning for firewood sales in the future. Was thinking of minimizing handling without making huge piles and buying a full fledged processor. My plan is for a good commercial grade tow behind splitter for mobility and a conveyor. Split into the back of my dump truck then back up my "tote" to the truck. With the tote still in the air at waist height, I'd raise the dump body to keep the wood coming to me. For this I'd prefer a full back for tilting the tote back a bit. Full cord totes for the less dense woods and half cord totes for dense heavier woods. Stack totes to season. Pick tote up and dump into truck for deliveries.

A bit more work than piles but I like it better this way.

No way around it, piles are a pain in the butt. They don’t season well, the bottom stuff is usually junk unless it’s on concrete, you end up with a lot of unwanted bark in your deliveries and you have to handle it multiple times before getting it to the customer.

That being said, if I had a processor that would cut and split, I would likely be doing piles lol. Since I do not have a processor and have to cut each piece with a chainsaw. I have to handle it at least once anyway, so I figure stack it in a tote or a built carrier of some kind is the best way to go as far as touching it as few times as possible before throwing it in the stove.

 

[jblnut]

In an effort to making splitting a little nicer on the back I decided to hang some iron on the back of the splitter Pops built 50yrs ago.

Built a couple ramps for the wood to slide up onto the rear area. Couple pieces of 12x12x1/2” scrap outta be heavy enough.

Good grief this worked very well ! Almost makes splitting wood enjoyable ! I have a bunch to split in the coming weeks while it’s nicer out. It was -27f a few mornings last week sure don’t miss that crap.