Caw
Minister of Fire
Definitely sounds like a draft issue. The 1800 is a very easy breathing stove with even a moderate chimney.
New guy here with a few questions.
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I have the Myraid 3
I almost bought the 1800 but ultimately chose the Myraid 3
But it sure does seem like it’s a draft problem
I opened a window about 15’ away and watched to see if it helped
No change
As soon as I crack the stove door it takes off with the window all the way open or cracked about 2” like we keep it all the time.
We have a back bathroom window cracked 2” all the time too
House is well insulated but plenty of drafts nears doors,
Not big drafts but enough I don’t think I’m starving it for good clean air. Especially with having 2 windows cracked open.
Again I live at 7300’
So according to that chart with 2-15 degree Elbows my flue should be closer to 15’
I almost bought the 1800 but ultimately chose the Myraid 3
But it sure does seem like it’s a draft problem
I opened a window about 15’ away and watched to see if it helped
No change
As soon as I crack the stove door it takes off with the window all the way open or cracked about 2” like we keep it all the time.
We have a back bathroom window cracked 2” all the time too
House is well insulated but plenty of drafts nears doors,
Not big drafts but enough I don’t think I’m starving it for good clean air. Especially with having 2 windows cracked open.
Again I live at 7300’
So according to that chart with 2-15 degree Elbows my flue should be closer to 15’
Caw
Minister of Fire
Ah ok I couldn't remember from earlier on the thread I thought you went with the 1800. I believe we all kind of said this would happen at your elevation with only 12' of chimney. It's not surprising. That small chimney would struggle even at sea level.
Yup, shouldn't be black glass. I've never had black glass. Very occasionally a black spot if a particular log end is really close to the glass. And most logs don't even do that. Only the odd one. I think its happened twice this season burning 24/7 for several months at this point.
Check your wood mc. "Stage" your wood. Sometimes 24 hours in the house can make a big difference on startup and even full burn. You know all this. It seems to be a bit of an art. I'm just learning...
Make sure you have lots of red on the logs before you turn the air down all the way. Use the blower to keep the flue temp in check. Anticipate what's happening and react proactively. The probe thermometer is slow reacting. My Legend makes a really hot chimney if I'm not paying attention.
Nice that you already notice more heat with less wood 😎
Did you get the firescreen? We've begun using ours quite regularly to burn down coal buildup and extract better heat out of those coals at the end of a burn. The heat pours right out the front more than with the door closed. It's made ash cleanout less frequent.
This is only my third season burning and the second with the Legend. Before that, it was about 5 years with a wood cookstove about 30 years ago... so be careful with my advice 😂
Oh, and be careful to not smash wood up into the baffle board. It is actually quite fragile. During the course of this thread, I realized mine was cracked (broken) front to back. It's warranteed two years. Drolet sent me a new one, no questions asked. I probably broke it. Less likely my wife..she's better at fire than me 🤷♂️
Check your wood mc. "Stage" your wood. Sometimes 24 hours in the house can make a big difference on startup and even full burn. You know all this. It seems to be a bit of an art. I'm just learning...
Make sure you have lots of red on the logs before you turn the air down all the way. Use the blower to keep the flue temp in check. Anticipate what's happening and react proactively. The probe thermometer is slow reacting. My Legend makes a really hot chimney if I'm not paying attention.
Nice that you already notice more heat with less wood 😎
Did you get the firescreen? We've begun using ours quite regularly to burn down coal buildup and extract better heat out of those coals at the end of a burn. The heat pours right out the front more than with the door closed. It's made ash cleanout less frequent.
This is only my third season burning and the second with the Legend. Before that, it was about 5 years with a wood cookstove about 30 years ago... so be careful with my advice 😂
Oh, and be careful to not smash wood up into the baffle board. It is actually quite fragile. During the course of this thread, I realized mine was cracked (broken) front to back. It's warranteed two years. Drolet sent me a new one, no questions asked. I probably broke it. Less likely my wife..she's better at fire than me 🤷♂️
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I have a lot to learn, you use the blower to control flue temps? Ok
I need to read up in that too.
I hope to get the flue to correct size today or at least closer
My local hardware has all the Selkirk pipe I need to swap it out.
I did what Caw said leave the air open more last night and this morning no black
I only shut the air down about 30%
Tiny bit of grey dust in lower left of glass.
I didn’t really add any wood to it though after 8 pm
And I didn’t close air down until I went to bed 10pm
So it was out this morning
Still impressed
75 went to bed
Was 68 in the house this morning and started it up took 10 minutes roughly to get steady and really going. Like you said once it gets some red then I can shut the door, if I try to early you can hear the fire trying to cling to the air from the door open and really start doing the puffing noise
Going to keep it small this morning though so I can replace the pipe early afternoon
My current pipe has a damper in the pipe few inches above the stove collar.
I don’t think I will reinstall that
I’ll get all new black pipe and stainless straight through.
I need to read up in that too.
I hope to get the flue to correct size today or at least closer
My local hardware has all the Selkirk pipe I need to swap it out.
I did what Caw said leave the air open more last night and this morning no black
I only shut the air down about 30%
Tiny bit of grey dust in lower left of glass.
I didn’t really add any wood to it though after 8 pm
And I didn’t close air down until I went to bed 10pm
So it was out this morning
Still impressed
75 went to bed
Was 68 in the house this morning and started it up took 10 minutes roughly to get steady and really going. Like you said once it gets some red then I can shut the door, if I try to early you can hear the fire trying to cling to the air from the door open and really start doing the puffing noise
Going to keep it small this morning though so I can replace the pipe early afternoon
My current pipe has a damper in the pipe few inches above the stove collar.
I don’t think I will reinstall that
I’ll get all new black pipe and stainless straight through.
Caw
Minister of Fire
Keep at it. There is definitely a learning curve.
I can't shut my air past 40% either and I'm sure it's due to low draft.
Not sure what kind of wood you're burning but on a cold start I went to using all dried pine with lots of kindling and smaller splits.
This will get things hotter real quick to build some coals and get the stove up to 'optimum operating temp' which I found is a key factor to clean burns.
I can't shut my air past 40% either and I'm sure it's due to low draft.
Not sure what kind of wood you're burning but on a cold start I went to using all dried pine with lots of kindling and smaller splits.
This will get things hotter real quick to build some coals and get the stove up to 'optimum operating temp' which I found is a key factor to clean burns.
yes,, I know how to get it going good now, and when I can shut the door and have enough draft to keep it going,, hopefully today I can get it closer to dialed in, looks like to get to 15' im going to have to add 9' of the double wall Selkirk from the ceiling up, it will be about 7' above my roof exit and roughly 4' above highest roof line. I ordered a brace kit for it as well..
my home is a mfg home, its. double wide but 2x6 walls excellent insulation in walls r19, it was trailered here and set on a foundation, about 5' deep, would a cold air intake from the crawl space help as well? or just the flue length.
this house has air leaks at every door, so its not air tight, we also keep those 2 windows cracked all winter long, we have 2 dogs constantly going in and out, so its not like its lacking fresh air to be able to use.
thought id mention that if I hadn't already.
I'm not an expert here, but just relaying the info I have learned with my new stove.
From what I have read about installations, I thought all mfg home required outside air intake. I could be wrong.
I'm sure there is a more qualified member that will be able to answer that question.
From what I have read about installations, I thought all mfg home required outside air intake. I could be wrong.
I'm sure there is a more qualified member that will be able to answer that question.
ya I read that but Im not sure I understand that, im not sure I see a difference between my modular home and a real home other than they trucked it in in pieces
I really don't know how the blower cools the flue. I think it cools the back of the firebox and the whole firebox in general as the wood is making intense heat in the very early stages of a burn. I'm just watching the flue probe and the blower appears to cool the flue. Once I have what seems to be the flue under control, I turn off the blower, sometimes in stages. Otherwise the blower will cool the stove excessively.
The thermodisc we bought is essentially useless to us, in our situation.
In warm (+2C to -7C thereabouts) weather we run the stovetop at about 450. In cold-ish weather, maybe 550, and in cold weather, maybe 6-650 tops. This can be achieved by controlling the burn in the early stages with our setup.
Cold-ish being -12-20C. Cold being -25-ish C and beyond.
The thermodisc we bought is essentially useless to us, in our situation.
In warm (+2C to -7C thereabouts) weather we run the stovetop at about 450. In cold-ish weather, maybe 550, and in cold weather, maybe 6-650 tops. This can be achieved by controlling the burn in the early stages with our setup.
Cold-ish being -12-20C. Cold being -25-ish C and beyond.
Yes, leave it out. Even when open the damper will restrict the flow a bit. Double-wall stove pipe will draft better than single-wall. Each little bit will help improve draft.
Yes. Apparently it will draft better because it will get and stay warm faster and longer. Since you are going to replace it all you should think about double wall.
I stayed with my single wall inside because it was already there and I wanted to pinch pennies. Seems to be working ok, but at some point down the road I may upgrade.
My blower is attached to a panel on the back that directs the air up and out the heat exchanger on the top. My flue goes right through the exchanger on my stove. I imagine this will cool the flue slightly while blowing. I looked at the blower as a way to move the heated air out in order warm the room/area more. I suppose it would cool STT a little but unsure if enough to be concerned.
You installed your new stove but are you using the same stove pipe with the 2 offsets ?
As others have said this will definitely affect your draft in a negative way.
Yes, the stove pipe that connects the stove to the chimney support. This is not the same as double-walled chimney pipe. They are entirely different animals.
ok so I was going to replace all the pipe,, but I will have to cut into the roof because of the metal fab design and how they install the box on my house
I could buy another piece of pipe from woodland direct
www.woodlanddirect.com
and continue to use the existing system, which is ok but not perfect in my opinion
it would be easier and cheaper for me to just get another 3 or 4' piece of metal fab pipe
its expensive , but less than replacing the whole chimney
I could buy another piece of pipe from woodland direct
6" Metal-Fab Temp-Guard Stainless Steel Chimney Pipe | Woodland Direct
www.woodlanddirect.com
it would be easier and cheaper for me to just get another 3 or 4' piece of metal fab pipe
its expensive , but less than replacing the whole chimney
understod
I think I will order a 4' piece of the metal fab product which will get me to 16' and go from their.
the meal fab is a good product compared to Selkirk or duravent?
I yanked all the metal fab out and replaced it with selkirk
Whomever did the insulation had only the pipe running through the attic
No box to keep insulation off it
They removed some of the blown in insulation, to help keep it from getting up next to the pipe
So I yanked it all out
Added more bracing
Ran the box all the way to the roof sheeting
the Selkirk box is 14.5" x 14.5" the metal fab was 12x12
so I moved the box in the direction I could, which turns out was helping get my pipe more straight up and much less bend
It’s working great now
Drafting way better
Was able to lower air flow even more last night
Slight film of grey ash on lower corners of glass.
This stove is Heating our home so much easier
And maybe 1/4 less wood so far.
I’m very happy
Whomever did the insulation had only the pipe running through the attic
No box to keep insulation off it
They removed some of the blown in insulation, to help keep it from getting up next to the pipe
So I yanked it all out
Added more bracing
Ran the box all the way to the roof sheeting
the Selkirk box is 14.5" x 14.5" the metal fab was 12x12
so I moved the box in the direction I could, which turns out was helping get my pipe more straight up and much less bend
It’s working great now
Drafting way better
Was able to lower air flow even more last night
Slight film of grey ash on lower corners of glass.
This stove is Heating our home so much easier
And maybe 1/4 less wood so far.
I’m very happy
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Caw
Minister of Fire
Eyyyyy. Good work.
You can't trust any inherited DIY work these days. Sometimes even "pro work since you don't know who they hired. Glad you investigated.
You can't trust any inherited DIY work these days. Sometimes even "pro work since you don't know who they hired. Glad you investigated.
I ordered the cold air intake
I will add it this week hopefully,
See how that improves efficiency ,
I should get the roof braces installed Thursday when they get here
After that combination is done I will run it for a few days before adding more pipe. See how it works, then add pipe if needed from that point.
I will add it this week hopefully,
See how that improves efficiency ,
I should get the roof braces installed Thursday when they get here
After that combination is done I will run it for a few days before adding more pipe. See how it works, then add pipe if needed from that point.
One more thing we have noticed, with old stove we got som much ash dust inside our home, my wife likes to keep the house spotless, she works hard at it. And maybe it’s simply because we open the door much less. Or maybe the stove is burning up the file so much better it’s not present anymore. But sh has stated how much less dust is present now in the house.
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