My Damper just broke? EKO 25, what next?

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Thanks. I guess I don't know why there is cleaner. It would appear to me that the tubes would already be too dirty before the cleaner would do anything.

Bob
They're put there to make you feel good and to warm you when you activate them! Haven't you heard of "getting that warm feeling".
 
There on there for the guys who never clean them properly. A 1/8 inch clean scrape down the tubes is better than nothing at all.
 
So I've been following this thread for awhile. With all of this talk about buildup in the firetubes and cleaning makes a huge difference, what are your flue temps before and after the cleanings? Also, of course, how are you measureing that flue temp?

TS
 
So I've been following this thread for awhile. With all of this talk about buildup in the firetubes and cleaning makes a huge difference, what are your flue temps before and after the cleanings? Also, of course, how are you measureing that flue temp?

TS

I use a dial lab thermometer with a 6 inch probe. It's quite sensitive. I don't remember the numbers but they were significant. If you had asked the question a month ago I probably could have run the test again but being the end of the season, the next time I brush will be the last time just before it gets tucked into bed for the summer.
 
I use a dial lab thermometer with a 6 inch probe. It's quite sensitive. I don't remember the numbers but they were significant. If you had asked the question a month ago I probably could have run the test again but being the end of the season, the next time I brush will be the last time just before it gets tucked into bed for the summer.
The highest I've seen is 308F with mine, my turbs are of the spiral type and are very tight when everything is up to temp. I removed one thinking there was buildup in the fire tubes making the turbs tight. Not at all, the darn things might have 1/16th of an inch tolerance.

TS
 
How are you measuring your temps boilerman ? 308 seems to low. Should at least be 320 internal to avoid condensation. I see a hundred degree drop after I clean my tubes from 430 to 330 F. that's after about 5 or 6 cord of wood. I measure mine with a candy thermometer. I just drilled a hole about 12" away from the boiler in the stack and put the probe in the hole. ( I Know so scientific ). 1/16 inch of ash will cut way down on heat transfer.
 
The highest I've seen is 308F with mine, my turbs are of the spiral type and are very tight when everything is up to temp. I removed one thinking there was buildup in the fire tubes making the turbs tight. Not at all, the darn things might have 1/16th of an inch tolerance.

TS
The turbs in the Eko are nothing more than a thin ribbon of bar stock that have had a twist out on them. I have seen photos hereof other turbs that appear to be more likely to do a better job, perhaps yours! Other photos I've seen appear to be stock that was wrapped on a mandrel and are more likely to be in closer proximity to the walls of the tubes. Perhaps the reason that chains work as well as the original turbs on the Eko.

If I were to guess on temperature difference between clean and dirty tubes I'd say it would be close to 100::F
 
How are you measuring your temps boilerman ? 308 seems to low. Should at least be 320 internal to avoid condensation. I see a hundred degree drop after I clean my tubes from 430 to 330 F. that's after about 5 or 6 cord of wood. I measure mine with a candy thermometer. I just drilled a hole about 12" away from the boiler in the stack and put the probe in the hole. ( I Know so scientific ). 1/16 inch of ash will cut way down on heat transfer.
Mine is measured with the internal temp probe that the boiler uses for shutdown. It is directly above the #7 firetube in the back of the boiler. I have confirmed it's readings with my thermocouple directly at the flue outlet, as I was worried about condensation as well. No signs of it at the chimney top either, 18' of 6" class A. But those brown icicles do form on the cap from time to time, very low temp up there when it's -30 outside I'd think.

TS
 
I wonder if there is any solution to the factory turb clearance issue. Maybe retrofitting in something tighter that actually rubs the tubes. I have an eko 40 and hate cleaning it. I might do the chain mod this summer and brush more often.
 
My flue temps are about 200c at full burn, internal a foot outside the boiler. My chimney is 30' tall, and I also get some icicles under the right (wrong?) conditions.

Whatever that means...
 
My flue temps are about 200c at full burn, internal a foot outside the boiler. My chimney is 30' tall, and I also get some icicles under the right (wrong?) conditions.

Whatever that means...
So 392 F. not bad
 
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