My Damper just broke? EKO 25, what next?

[Fred61]

The only tool I use is a hook that I hammered out to grab the chains rather than reaching in and grabbing them. I think the wing nuts I used were a different pitch on the threads. Went on hard the first time. Now not so difficult

 

[maple1]

You don't need any tools if you use wing nuts on the fire tube access plate.

Fasteners UGH!





I was just poking fun at henfruit for poking fun at turbs, since his cleaning vid shows tools used to get at the tubes for cleaning. I've got turbs too - I can do a full cleaning in 5 minutes start to finish, no UGH! involved with mine.

 

[Fred61]

BTW I also attached 3 inch rings to the turbulators at the same time I was attaching them to the chains. Experimented with both and saw no difference in flue temperature so I settled on the chains because they were easier to install and remove.

 

[infinitymike]

Boy I thought you guys were rough on Wood Gun owners only.
But it seems you go after your own kind too.

RD, did you ever get fixed? Are you up and running?

 

[henfruit]

You don't need any tools if you use wing nuts on the fire tube access plate.

That is a good idea. Then I can put my 1/2 inch wrench back in the tool box.

 

[mr.fixit]

Any wood burning appliance is going to need some maintenance by the operator.Most all will have something wear out and need replacing sooner or later.

One thing often overlooked is the heat load and how much wood goes thru the boiler. Makes a big difference cleaning frequency and parts replacement.

Those of us that go thru 10 cord a season are naturally going to try to get every btu out of the boiler with frequent and thorough cleanings. Someone that has less heatload will probably do fine with the factory cleaning handle setup. Probably won't make alot of difference in their wood consumption.

One thing though,if your wood supply is getting down, it pays to do a good tube cleaning to maximize what wood you have left.

 

[Fred61]

Perhaps it's a game with me or perhaps it's a passion but I want to go the heating season using the smallest amount of wood as possible. To me it's a feeling of accomplishment. I don't have to burn wood at all. I can well afford to burn fossil fuel. After assessing the wood pile, it appears that I will burn slightly over three cords this winter. That's a guess of course since I don't know what March will bring. I consider this to be a light heating load.

 

[McKraut]

I cleaned mine for the first time after 3 years of use , there was only a little fly ash in the fire tubes. Now that I've removed the original turbulators and done the chain mod it is much easier to clean. I do it every 2 weeks weather needed or not. That mod makes the cleaning a lot more enjoyable

.

Huffdawg,
Do you have more specifics about your chain modifications? The most recent thing I came across concering chains was from jebatty a while back. Am I missing a post that is more recent? The turbulators in the EKO are a pain in the arse to get out. On my old TARM it was easy as pie to clean, but these are a bear to deal with. Any help is appreciated.

Bob

 

[Fred61]

I removed the shaft and all the mechanical junk and salvaged the turbulators. Welded a three inch ring on each of the turbulators and also made up a set of chain turbulators. I ran the unit with each set while carefully monitoring the stack temperature and found no difference in performance. I decided to use the chains because they are easier to handle and maneuver when removing them for brushing the tubes. I made myself a hook and simply drag them out and drop them in a bucket. BTW, I had to make a plate to plug the hole that the shaft went through. Now I just pop the insulated panel off the top. Remove the gasketed cleanout access plate and pull the chain turbulators.

 

[huffdawg]

I welded the top link sideways, Fred's looks one step better than mine..I was thinking of welding a little T on the top of the sideways link. I have been grabbing them with a welding rod bent into a hook.

 

[McKraut]

I removed the shaft and all the mechanical junk and salvaged the turbulators. Welded a three inch ring on each of the turbulators and also made up a set of chain turbulators. I ran the unit with each set while carefully monitoring the stack temperature and found no difference in performance. I decided to use the chains because they are easier to handle and maneuver when removing them for brushing the tubes. I made myself a hook and simply drag them out and drop them in a bucket. BTW, I had to make a plate to plug the hole that the shaft went through. Now I just pop the insulated panel off the top. Remove the gasketed cleanout access plate and pull the chain turbulators.



View attachment 130045 View attachment 130046

Thanks for the pictures. I guess I am surprised that the chains work as well as the turbulators. Is the chain 3/8"? I got a new MIG welder from Santa Claus and I've been itching to weld something other than plowshare for a while. If you use 3/8" I have a few lengths left over from busted logging chains that I can use. Do the EKO 25s and 40s not have cleaning levers? How often do you clean your tubes?

Thanks,

Bob

 

[Fred61]

Do the EKO 25s and 40s not have cleaning levers? How often do you clean your tubes?

Yes they do however they are basically useless and a huge roadblock when it comes to cleaning. It's a major undertaking to remove the turbulators to brush the tubes and just as much of a pain to re-assemble. The turbulators leave about 1/4 inch clearance from the walls of the tubes so when you actuate the lever no crud is removed unless there is at least 1/4 inch of it there. That's about ten times the amount that should be allowed in the tubes.

By removing the whole mechanism and only having the turbs in place brushing the tubes reduces the cleaning time from one hour plus to 10 to 12 minutes which gives me the incentive to brush more often. Plus if I want to do it in dress clothes I can stay clean as long as I wear a pair of rubber gloves.

I just stopped by Tractor Supply and picked up some 3 inch rings, sawed through them, twisted them enough to string the first link and re-welded the ring. Not much welding there. Nice and flexible and easy to handle.

 

[McKraut]

Yes they do however they are basically useless and a huge roadblock when it comes to cleaning. It's a major undertaking to remove the turbulators to brush the tubes and just as much of a pain to re-assemble. The turbulators leave about 1/4 inch clearance from the walls of the tubes so when you actuate the lever no crud is removed unless there is at least 1/4 inch of it there. That's about ten times the amount that should be allowed in the tubes.

By removing the whole mechanism and only having the turbs in place brushing the tubes reduces the cleaning time from one hour plus to 10 to 12 minutes which gives me the incentive to brush more often. Plus if I want to do it in dress clothes I can stay clean as long as I wear a pair of rubber gloves.

I just stopped by Tractor Supply and picked up some 3 inch rings, sawed through them, twisted them enough to string the first link and re-welded the ring. Not much welding there. Nice and flexible and easy to handle.

One last question. Is the chain 3/8" or 1/2"? I just pulled the turbulators out for the last time. My knuckles look like I just finished punching a guy with buck teeth.

 

[Fred61]

One last question. Is the chain 3/8" or 1/2"? I just pulled the turbulators out for the last time. My knuckles look like I just finished punching a guy with buck teeth.

I used 3/8". They give you a little more clearance to the walls but I think they scramble the flow better. Bottom line is you'll be brushing more often. You are getting rid of all that linkage, are you not?

 

[easternbob]

Well after running my EKO 25 for 4 years I finally removed the turbs for the first time to clean the tubes. I thought maybe everyone was exagerating some about how much of a pain it was to remove the whole mechinism but now that I've experienced it they were correct!
Well there wasn't much crud in there at all just light fly ash that I was able to easily remove with a nylon brush I had (think it's an old oil burner brush?). Putting ti back together was worse than taking apart.
IF I see a big difference in performance over the next week or so I will remove the mechinism once and for all and do the chain or turbs with rings on the ends next time I clean

 

[McKraut]

I used 3/8". They give you a little more clearance to the walls but I think they scramble the flow better. Bottom line is you'll be brushing more often. You are getting rid of all that linkage, are you not?

I was toying with the idea of leaving the linkage and hopefully getting some benefit from the cleaning lever. I'm not sure what I'm going to do. I was considering hanging the chain from the linkage with quick links. That way I would haven't to spend as much time pulling the apparatus apart - I could unscrew the quick links and pull the chains up. Am I wasting my time?

Bob

 

[McKraut]

Well after running my EKO 25 for 4 years I finally removed the turbs for the first time to clean the tubes. I thought maybe everyone was exagerating some about how much of a pain it was to remove the whole mechinism but now that I've experienced it they were correct!
Well there wasn't much crud in there at all just light fly ash that I was able to easily remove with a nylon brush I had (think it's an old oil burner brush?). Putting ti back together was worse than taking apart.
IF I see a big difference in performance over the next week or so I will remove the mechinism once and for all and do the chain or turbs with rings on the ends next time I clean

Keep me (us) posted. I am interested in what you find out.

Bob

 

[Fred61]

I wasting my time?

Short answer ---- yes

 

[goosegunner]

I was toying with the idea of leaving the linkage and hopefully getting some benefit from the cleaning lever. I'm not sure what I'm going to do. I was considering hanging the chain from the linkage with quick links. That way I would haven't to spend as much time pulling the apparatus apart - I could unscrew the quick links and pull the chains up. Am I wasting my time?

Bob

I think the EKO is similar to the Econoburn. I just cleaned mine, instead of the top two linkage bolts I installed clevis pins. I can access the tubes with the main linkage rod still in place. I can now pull out the turbulator bar, turbulators and linkage in one piece by pulling two pins. Everything is done from top cover removal only.

gg

 

[kooslf]

I am still in shoping mode for a boiler. I was kind of wondering just how effective those turbulater agitators were. Would the observations made here probably apply to all brands which use such a system?
Lloyd

 

[Fred61]

I believe most wood boilers and some oil boilers have turbulators in some way shape or form. I wouldn't use turbulators nor lack there of as criteria for choosing a boiler. To me, it's a non issue.

 

[maple1]

I am still in shoping mode for a boiler. I was kind of wondering just how effective those turbulater agitators were. Would the observations made here probably apply to all brands which use such a system?
Lloyd

To clarify - you're asking not about turbulators themselves, but rather the self-enclosed cleaning mechanisms some systems use?

Seems from most of the reading I've done here, most who have them wind up not using them or not relying on them and it doesn't eliminate the need to actually pull the turbs out for a full cleaning.

 

[McKraut]

Short answer ---- yes

Thanks. I guess I don't know why there is cleaner. It would appear to me that the tubes would already be too dirty before the cleaner would do anything.

Bob

 

[easternbob]

So I cleaned my heat exchanger tubes for the first time about a week ago. With the warmer weather I haven't been running the boiler as much or as hard but I have started it from cold a couple times and I do have to say that with the brushed out tubes I am heating the water quicker. I also made a few other small changes so I can't say that the clean tubes are contributing but it seems to help.

 

[woodsmaster]

So I cleaned my heat exchanger tubes for the first time about a week ago. With the warmer weather I haven't been running the boiler as much or as hard but I have started it from cold a couple times and I do have to say that with the brushed out tubes I am heating the water quicker. I also made a few other small changes so I can't say that the clean tubes are contributing but it seems to help.

I can say that it is the clean tubes. It makes a hell of a difference. Just a very thin layer of fly ash cuts way down on heat transfer.