MORE Hearthstone Green Mountain 60 - ISSUES

[LakeCabin]

I mentioned a couple models earlier.

Yes, noted. Thanks.

 

[cabinwarmer]

LakeCabin, plz see my newer post on the lower air unit. You need to verify the location of the gasket material, not the metal sleeve itself. Seems there are some that came out of the factory installed incorrectly.

 

[LakeCabin]

LakeCabin, plz see my newer post on the lower air unit. You need to verify the location of the gasket material, not the metal sleeve itself. Seems there are some that came out of the factory installed incorrectly.

Thanks. I just read your post. I am not sure I understand what the "the gasket on the top of the tube" refers to. Maybe I'm just being dense! Can you elaborate?

Do you mean the rope like material wound round the bottom of the LPAO? See my photos earlier. It seems that it's a fairly subtle difference in the photos I posted of the old and new unit and the rope tends to push up when the LPAO is inserted and pushed down into the well it sits in. But then I also have the missing bolt issue. If there's no bolt holding the LPAO tightly down in the well then there probably would not be a tight seal no matter what.

Ah, I just reread the install instructions: https://hearthstonetech.com/wp-cont...0-60-and-80-lower-primary-air-opening-kit.pdf

 

[cabinwarmer]

Good Day, yes that rope is what I am referring to. The "well" I believe is the air flow "tube". Probably should not be blocked. I would recommend a call to Hearthstone directly when you are in front of the stove with the new part, the new screw, and the tech bulletin doc. Tell them you do not trust your dealership, (I wouldn't) after all they have missed. They have a tech support option and usually will answer if you try a few times. That way, you will be sure it is correct and also learn how it works for any future issues. Sounds to me like this may be the solution, but not having installed the new LPAO myself, I would recommend some direct guidance from Hearthstone. They have a customer support line as well as an email contact on there web site. Maybe send email today, get things started. 1-877-877-2113 was the number I used last time.

 

[LakeCabin]

Thanks. This is very useful.

 

[cabinwarmer]

These instructions are confusing. The first picture shows the rope completely around the pipe. As my unit is currently installed as well. The last picture in the spec, shows only partial coverage of the gasket. ??

 

[cabinwarmer]

I took a few pics of mine. It appears to me that there is an issue with the gasket.

 

[LakeCabin]

Yes, I agree. The instructions are confusing or incomplete. Those photos looks very different from my original install. I had previously observed that the first photo in the install instructions shows the rope going round the top and sides which it is clearly not what it is doing with mine and and doesn't appear to be doing in later photos in the install instructions. So which is it? I think you are correct about the need to seek input from Heathstone on how it should be installed properly.

 

[cabinwarmer]

Your original pic above - looks bad. No gasket covering at all except the bottom. Mine looks a bit better but missing a portion of the gasket. The photos in the tech doc show a third scenario.

 

[cabinwarmer]

begreen: we need a non GM owner to take a look at our pictures. We both may have LPAO issues, but being owners may have us bias in our thinking and troubleshooting ideas.

1) Please take a look at the series of pics in this thread.
a- would the original LPAO gasket (only on one side) possibly hold back Lakecabin's air intake? Causing low draft, even after the chimney extension?

b- In my case, would the section of gasket around the LPAO that is tucked in (missing) cause a higher level of draft?

Your expert advice and guidance would be appreciated. The link to the tech spec also has pictures that may help.

 

[LakeCabin]

cabinwarmer: Is your LPAO welded closed at the top end. My dealer seemed to think that the original LPAO's might have been open necessitating the rope gasket over the top. Both my old one and the new one are welded closed at the top.

 

[cabinwarmer]

I have not pulled it out yet, but will look when I do so. (update) - appears to be open at the top from what I can tell.

 

[LakeCabin]

If your stove is working properly I might be a little nervous pulling it out until we know more about how it is supposed to work and the proper installation. if there is a gap in the gasket at the top you might be able to see or poke the top with the end of a pencil or something similar to see if there is metal there or not.

It is a sort of annoying piece as it's difficult to see most of it. I spent ages moving my phone around in the box trying to get decent photos so I had some idea what was going on. I am not surprised the installers thought the screw holding it was stripped as it's near impossible to see if there is a screw holding it or not.

 

[cabinwarmer]

updated photos: original gm60 LPAO after further cleaning. Looks the gasket is missing from the top.

 

[LakeCabin]

That looks more like my original one now, except the gasket rope at the bottom isn't sticking up and I can see the head of the screw attaching your LPAO to the stove so it would appear to be properly installed.

 

[Rob_Red]

My GM 40

 

[cabinwarmer]

Rob_Red, your picture is similar to LakeCabin's. Mine seems to have extra gasket around the edges. What gives?
Direct quote from Hearthstone "The gasket on the top of the tube may have been pushed too far into the tube and no longer creating a seal".

 

[tabner]

Because I have not fired my stove up yet, my input is much less valuable since we don't know if I have a smooth functioning unit or not, but for whatever it's worth, I thought some more photos might be useful.

 

[begreen]

I'm not sure, but the LPAO appears to be a boost air port. Is it located at the bottom, front center edge of the firebox? If so, then the adapter appears to be a right-angle diverter to point the boost air at the base of the fire. If that is the case, it's hard for me to understand how this could be causing the hard start and unable to run without the door ajar issue that LakeCabin is seeing. His problem seems more weak draft-related.

 

[LakeCabin]

it's hard for me to understand how this could be causing the hard start and unable to run without the door ajar issue that LakeCabin is seeing. His problem seems more weak draft-related.

Yes, I have a hard time understanding this as well. The LPAO clearly wasn't installed properly on my stove and that needs fixed but it doesn't seem likely that what appears to be a fairly small issue would affect the airflow such that it would cause the issues I was experiencing unless the air intake at the bottom of the LPAO was blocked.

I am not sure why I should be experiencing draft issues with a straight up chimney and a good breeze outside most days.

 

[begreen]

I could be wrong, but it seems like this is barking up the wrong tree. The dealer needs to put a manometer on the flue and measure the draft to find out if it's in or out of specification. Sometimes local terrain can affect the draft. If it is sufficient then the problem is with the stove.

 

[cabinwarmer]

You have the location correct begreen, center of firebox pointing inward at the base of the fire. Agreed....manometer was suggested awhile back.
I would bet when LakeCabin asks for the dealer to provide a manometer test, he does not know what he is asking for. Might have to find a certified sweep to help with the reading (CSIA.org). Would settle the issue one way or the other. Thanks for your followup begreen.

Dave

 

[begreen]

FWIW, our stove has been working without boost air for the past decade.

 

[LakeCabin]

I am not sure whether they did a manometer test or not. There was some reference to starting a fire (when I was not present) and not being able to pull a draft reading. The person doing the 'reading' was the same person who I witnessed trying to start a test fire with the catalytic activated and insisted I was wrong when I politely suggested the bypass handle might be in the wrong position. I would agree that having a certified sweep do some measurements and assess what the problem might and possible solutions makes sense.

If one assumes it is a draft problem and the height of the chimney has already been extended without any significant change, what other things might one try to generate more draft?

 

[begreen]

I am not sure whether they did a manometer test or not. There was some reference to starting a fire (when I was not present) and not being able to pull a draft reading. The person doing the 'reading' was the same person who I witnessed trying to start a test fire with the catalytic activated and insisted I was wrong when I politely suggested the bypass handle might be in the wrong position. I would agree that having a certified sweep do some measurements and assess what the problem might and possible solutions makes sense.

If one assumes it is a draft problem and the height of the chimney has already been extended without any significant change, what other things might one try to generate more draft?

Was that prior to adding the additional chimney pipe? Maybe ask if a test done after the pipe was added and what was the reading.