Log Load On The Way

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I rarely get called for anything smaller than that. Most people I know with land around here burn wood, so they usually keep all manageable stuff for themselves. They usually call me when they have something over 40" DBH, which they're just not equipped to process. Felling and bucking these big'uns is a lot of fun, but moving and splitting them is a very slow PITA.
 
You know the .22 hammers you plug anchors into concrete with? Why can't you just hit it with big enough cartridge to bust it up? I don't know enough about wood yet but this sounds like an interesting idea for you.
Sounds like the premise for another episode of mythbusters.
 
Sounds like the premise for another episode of mythbusters.
Heck those guys will end up using 1/2 stick of dynamite just to prove that you can use explosives. It doesn't change the fact there is very little chemical energy stored in one of those .22 cartridges.
 
I just actually cut wood with a chain saw for the first time. It's easy! I have some other things to do today but this log load is going to be rendered into rounds in the next few days I would imagine...then I will start splitting. I'm excited to get this done and learn some new skills. Thank you everyone for the input and help.
 
Good luck, the weather up by you is perfect for making rounds with the saw. Just take your time, take breaks, and preplan all of your cuts.
 
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So guys, I purposely roll the logs off of the pile onto the ground for cutting. I agree to store the logs on the stringers to keep them clean and dry.

When I cut on the ground I use the mingo marker to mark each cut at exactly 16" and then I run down the log cutting 3/4 or so of the way to the ground. Then roll the log 180 degrees and finish the cut. All on the ground. Seems if you tried cutting logs while on the stringers that the log would pinch your bar. What am I missing?

I'll actually lay several logs on the ground a foot or two apart and get a system down where I cut an immense amount of rounds in a short time.

Yes, I use a peavey to get logs out of the pile. I've rolled 40" douglas fir logs with that dang thing. Amazing tool.
 
your 40" douglas log is prob lighter than one of our 16" red oak logs. - your lucky
 
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You can cut a log on the stringers, not bending over as much as if it was on the ground, going partially through before it starts binding, and then roll it off and finish it on the ground.
You can cut the ends off too, but then, you might have to move the rounds more, rather than making rounds near where you're going to do stuff next to them.

This project is way behind schedule. :)
 
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your 40" douglas log is prob lighter than one of our 16" red oak logs. - your lucky
Not quite. Assuming Doug Fir at 35 lb/ft3 green, and red oak at 61 lb/ft3 green, a 40" doug fir would weigh the same as a 30" red oak. That r^2 thing means diameter doesn't need to vary much, for a big change in volume.

Your point is still correct tho... doug fir weighs half as much as oak, per volume.
 
You can cut a log on the stringers, not bending over as much as if it was on the ground, going partially through before it starts binding, and then roll it off and finish it on the ground.
You can cut the ends off too, but then, you might have to move the rounds more, rather than making rounds near where you're going to do stuff next to them.

This project is way behind schedule. :)
Another option, to reduce handling, would be to cut 2/3 through then place a felling wedge in the top of the cut and just finish it. No pinching and no manhandling the log either.
 
Another option, to reduce handling, would be to cut 2/3 through then place a felling wedge in the top of the cut and just finish it. No pinching and no manhandling the log either.
That's more work than rolling it with the Peavey, I would think. Plus, if it was on the stringers, one end would fall to the ground, I'd imagine, and you';d be cutting at an awkward angle.
 
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Another option, to reduce handling, would be to cut 2/3 through then place a felling wedge in the top of the cut and just finish it. No pinching and no manhandling the log either.
Sounds like a good idea, in theory, but falls apart in the field.

Roll them off the pile onto the ground, cut 90% thru all the way down the length of the log, roll half over, finish each cut. It's the way every person who has cut more than a few cords eventually comes around to doing it, learn from their experience.

The only time I wedge to finish is when a log is too big to roll, like this one we cut ten days ago:

[Hearth.com] Log Load On The Way
 
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Sorta agree with that.

I just go at the pile, and have never used a peavy or the like (never see anything quite that big either). I just try to get things working in from the ends, then you get a sort of sawbuck thing going, and can cut multiple logs at once. Or not exactly with each cut, but cut your way through multiples - just keep going one to the next without moving sideways or re-measuring. I let gravity do the log moving, and shift around as I go depending on what the piles is doing. That can also help avoid saw pinching stuff, but you need to be aware at all times what the pile is doing.

And I'm a bit contrarian on the stringer thing. That can lead to a saw pinching situation too, once you get to the bottom of the pile and you get in between the stringers. So I would just make some cuts most of the way through & roll the log over to finish. I would use them though if the pile is going to sit there for a while before I got to it.
 
One time they delivered them without stringers (don't know why).
The big difference to me was there was more crouching over required.
PS: You NEED a peavy to roll those logs. :)
 
Another option, to reduce handling, would be to cut 2/3 through then place a felling wedge in the top of the cut and just finish it. No pinching and no manhandling the log either.

So if you do this... when you do make it through that cut your wedge, the cut round, AND the whole rest of the log fall to the ground. Now you're cutting on an angle. When you've got many cords to cut you need to be cranking through this stuff much faster anyway. No time for wedges or even a tape measure.

I'm glad to hear that I'm not the only one cutting logs on the ground for support.
 
So if you do this... when you do make it through that cut your wedge, the cut round, AND the whole rest of the log fall to the ground. Now you're cutting on an angle. When you've got many cords to cut you need to be cranking through this stuff much faster anyway. No time for wedges or even a tape measure.

I'm glad to hear that I'm not the only one cutting logs on the ground for support.

i wish I could get the logs on top down on the ground! I'm hesitant to climb up there to start at the top as the whole pile could start rolling
 
You know the .22 hammers you plug anchors into concrete with? Why can't you just hit it with big enough cartridge to bust it up? I don't know enough about wood yet but this sounds like an interesting idea for you.
12 Gauge axe. I'm listening!
 
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You go to either end of the pile, pick a likely candidate, and use your Peavy to roll it off. You are off to the side, and, theoretically, out of harm's way.
 
You go to either end of the pile, pick a likely candidate, and use your Peavy to roll it off. You are off to the side, and, theoretically, out of harm's way.

I've even grabbed on with an axe, using it like a pulp hook, to pull them off. Usually there's one that is about to roll that you can sort of help along. You can also saw the log in half on top and then work down that half log a bit easier. You're just trying to knock it down so it doesn't need to be pretty.
 
i wish I could get the logs on top down on the ground! I'm hesitant to climb up there to start at the top as the whole pile could start rolling

Uh yeah, climbing up top I don't usually do. Should be able to keep working at it from all sides. Sorta like a big jenga/pick-up-sticks game. Kinda....
 
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