Kuuma VF100 arrived

[brenndatomu]

This page has three diagrams:
http://www.yukon-eagle.com/FURNACEACCESSORIES/FRESHAIRINTAKE/tabid/204/Default.aspx

The first example is just a bad idea, the other two are good, but both a variation of the same thing effectively

You do not want it to exit near the intake. You want to do a 180* turn at the floor then come up the wall and 90 just below the entrance to the outside. That way you only pull air in that's needed and not pour cold air in all the time.

I like this idea ^ ^ ^

 

[Monaco]

The first example is just a bad idea, the other two are good, but both a variation of the same thing effectively

I like this idea ^ ^ ^

I like that idea too. I just dipped my toe into the OAK threads and wow.

 

[DaveH]

My floor plan is fairly open, but that's a great idea. Our future plans with this old place is to open it a little more and I feel better about that.

I'm not sure exactly if I can do 45 degree joints on the flue. It will be close. If I have to have a little bit of straight horizontal or vertical run, would it be better at the top near the exit or at the bottom near the furnace?

Mind posting pictures of your setup?

I just learned from Lamppa that I cannot extend the thermocouple wires going into the computer. This means I can't mount the computer onto a nearby wall instead of the side of the furnace (which will be 6" from a wall), and as a result I'll never be able to see the controls; except maybe with a small pocket mirror.

This is what I'm working with for the moment. I'm going to try to 45 it into the wall when I get a chance. I fought with the adjustable elbows enough last night. I have a 30 plus foot chimney so I have plenty of pull.

Could you mount a mirror on the wall to see the controls? If you havent hooked it up, the damper system is not a set of three lights anymore, a number, 1-3 appears, along with a capital and lower case C. This is important when first lighting the fire as the the furnace transitions from cold (C) to a 3 (then 2, 1, and c when it's in "pilot" mode and really cranking.) Having a clear view of the display will save you from opening the door to check the fire, because if its at 1 or 2 you have have a strong fire. Of course you can open the door and figure it out yourself, but the display lets you know what the computer is thinking.

 

[Monaco]

Looks good! I'm not to the place where I've hooked up the fan or the flue yet. Before I can push it to the wall, I have to get electric sorted first. My chimney arrangement is similar, but mine makes twi quick 90 turns after going thru the wall.

The mirror is definitely a good option if the wires aren't quite long enough...

 

[Monaco]

This is what I'm working with for the moment. I'm going to try to 45 it into the wall when I get a chance. I fought with the adjustable elbows enough last night. I have a 30 plus foot chimney so I have plenty of pull.

Could you mount a mirror on the wall to see the controls? If you havent hooked it up, the damper system is not a set of three lights anymore, a number, 1-3 appears, along with a capital and lower case C. This is important when first lighting the fire as the the furnace transitions from cold (C) to a 3 (then 2, 1, and c when it's in "pilot" mode and really cranking.) Having a clear view of the display will save you from opening the door to check the fire, because if its at 1 or 2 you have have a strong fire. Of course you can open the door and figure it out yourself, but the display lets you know what the computer is thinking.

View attachment 164849 View attachment 164848 View attachment 164849

I see the top of your automated intake is not covered. I was looking at that and it almost seemed like it should be, was wondering if I was missing a part but I see now it's all good!

Mind showing me a closeup of your transformer on the back?

 

[Monaco]

DaveH or StihlyDan - can you show me what it looks like where the fan junction box is?

As you can see from these photos, I can't install the fan shroud, the junction box is mounted in the way. There's also the hole in the side of the fan shroud. Do I have to unbolt the junction box and move it?

This first picture is looking at the junction box from the inside of the fan shroud:


This picture is looking at it from the outside of the fan shroud:


EDIT: I see how it goes now - unbolts and turns outward. I did not think it would have been bolted to the outer shell. I think perhaps I should fill in the screw hole with high-temp silicone...

 

[Monaco]

Got my custom plenum in today, and the fire bricks put in. Waiting on word from Lamppa to see if I can reposition the high limit controller to the other side and at an angle...

Was able to put the computer on the wall too, just barely! But now I'll be able to see the controls.

 

[Monaco]

Now I just need to hook up the chimney.

 

[JRHAWK9]

If you read the manual it states to remove the junction box and rotate it 90°. Once you get the blower motor box in place the junction box mounts to it.

 

[brenndatomu]

EDIT: I see how it goes now - unbolts and turns outward. I did not think it would have been bolted to the outer shell. I think perhaps I should fill in the screw hole with high-temp silicone...

Not a big enough hole to worry about at all. It'll will just recirculate a extremely small amount of air through the blower...

 

[STIHLY DAN]

Be careful of blocking yourself or anyone else out of getting to the controls and wiring. If something needs to be worked on could be a pain. How close is that plenum to the wood?

 

[Monaco]

Be careful of blocking yourself or anyone else out of getting to the controls and wiring. If something needs to be worked on could be a pain. How close is that plenum to the wood?

Yeah good point. We installed the high limit control on the opposite side for that reason

 

[Monaco]

I made my first furnace burn last night. What everyone says is correct, there's no tinkering, just load and walk away. Repeated curious openings of the door just resulted in a smoky furnace room

 

[STIHLY DAN]

I made my first furnace burn last night. What everyone says is correct, there's no tinkering, just load and walk away. Repeated curious openings of the door just resulted in a smoky furnace room

Should not have been any smoke coming out the door. Was this curiosity after 1st lite off?

 

[Monaco]

Should not have been any smoke coming out the door. Was this curiosity after 1st lite off?

Yes. I altered the draft a bit (increased the setting) and that took care of most of the smoke from an open door. Do you get any smoke when opening the firebox door?

 

[STIHLY DAN]

Yes. I altered the draft a bit (increased the setting) and that took care of most of the smoke from an open door. Do you get any smoke when opening the firebox door?

Never, unless its on start up of a cold unit and I open the door a bit early to be nosey.

 

[Monaco]

Also:

Never, unless its on start up of a cold unit and I open the door a bit early to be nosey.

Mine smokes no matter what when the door gets about 3" open.

 

[STIHLY DAN]

How is your draft? Inside the unit should be a negative, When the unit is warm/hot and you open the door air should rush INTO the unit. Not out.

 

[brenndatomu]

Sounds like low draft.
Getting a cheap manometer like the Dwyer Mark II model 25 is a really good way to get (and keep) a handle on your draft situation.
What is your chimney like? I'm guessin that's it in the background of your first pic? Overall height, internal size, masonry or SS lined, internal or external to the house? (if it is not the one in the pic)
It may be a lot better after the weather gets colder too. Some chimneys struggle much over 40* weather

 

[Monaco]

Sounds like low draft.
Getting a cheap manometer like the Dwyer Mark II model 25 is a really good way to get (and keep) a handle on your draft situation.
What is your chimney like? I'm guessin that's it in the background of your first pic? Overall height, internal size, masonry or SS lined, internal or external to the house? (if it is not the one in the pic)
It may be a lot better after the weather gets colder too. Some chimneys struggle much over 40* weather

Actually I get almost no smoke when the fire is hot... But yeah it's warm and we're running it more or less because we're excited to try it out

My chimney is insulated stainless 6" about 40' high (not the one in the picture.) There's an unavoidable horizontal 4' followed by two 90-degree angles, then up it goes. There's a spark arrestor at the top.

 

[brenndatomu]

My chimney is insulated stainless 6" about 40' high (not the one in the picture.) There's an unavoidable horizontal 4' followed by two 90-degree angles, then up it goes.

A 4' horizontal run will make for smoke out the loading door for sure. Is it dead flat or were you able to do the minimum 1/4" per ft of rise? Guess that doesn't matter that much. With a 40' chimney I think it will perform much better once the weather gets cold.
A really air tight house will make for a smokey reload too...

 

[Monaco]

A 4' horizontal run will make for smoke out the loading door for sure. Is it dead flat or were you able to do the minimum 1/4" per ft of rise? Guess that doesn't matter that much. With a 40' chimney I think it will perform much better once the weather gets cold.
A really air tight house will make for a smokey reload too...

There might be a slight slope in it... either way it's embedded in the old house. I may dig into the walls and see if I can lift one end of it.

 

[STIHLY DAN]

Space may be in a negative also. combustion air along with the baro use a lot of air. I have a 4 inch fresh air inlet and At times of low pressure and cold furnace I need to crack the door during lite off.

 

[Monaco]

Thanks Dan. I did set up a 3" fresh air input. I do crack the ashpan door during takeoff as Lamppa recommends; which does really start it off faster.

 

[STIHLY DAN]

I meant outside door cracked not ash pan.