Kioti DK4710SE HST

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Ha, the coupler was a pull instead of a push! The dude tried the same thing I did and couldn't figure it out. Nobody suggested it on the phone when I called the dealer. At least nothing was broken. The leak was a hydraulic fitting that wasn't tight enough.
We could be in for two inches of rain tomorrow night, that
I found a dribble after several hours of use. When I change the fluids I'll take the fitting apart and try again with some extra pipe tape.
If the weather channel is correct, we have two inches of rain coming in starting tomorrow, that should get rid of the rest of the ice and snow in the woods.
 
Glad to hear it was something simple to correct. I have had a few leaks from fittings not being tight enough or the need for a little pipe tape. The joy of owning a new piece of equipment.

Just make sure those are NPT fittings, and not another type. Other than some homeowner upgrades on antique Fords, I’m not used to seeing NPT lines on tractors. Most are ORFS or ORB, and these seal with an o-ring, which can get damaged by a sloppy installer. In this case, replace the o-ring, just a few pennies, don’t gum up your fittings with tape!

When I work on equipment for friends, I find tape on everything from JIC to compression fittings, and not only does it almost never work, it makes a mess to clean up. Pipe tape or dope is for NPT taper threads, only!
 
Just make sure those are NPT fittings, and not another type. Other than some homeowner upgrades on antique Fords, I’m not used to seeing NPT lines on tractors. Most are ORFS or ORB, and these seal with an o-ring, which can get damaged by a sloppy installer. In this case, replace the o-ring, just a few pennies, don’t gum up your fittings with tape!

When I work on equipment for friends, I find tape on everything from JIC to compression fittings, and not only does it almost never work, it makes a mess to clean up. Pipe tape or dope is for NPT taper threads, only!

Thanks for the heads up. Generally I try to be minimal on PTFE tape, it's just a thread lubricant. I tried explaining it to my wife, but she still insists it's used to seal threads.

So the shop at my dealership really only exists to service the equipment used by the logging company that's co-located with the tractor/equipment dealer. Both sides of the house are owned by the same person, but the shop's priority is the logging side of the business. This means work started say on my tractor might have to go on pause until a log truck or skidder is fixed. You could see how dumb things could happen.


I was taking Automotive classes in NC. I think I'm going to cash in some more GI bill benefits to take some heavy duty diesel classes, probably small engines too.
 
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We could be in for two inches of rain tomorrow night, that

If the weather channel is correct, we have two inches of rain coming in starting tomorrow, that should get rid of the rest of the ice and snow in the woods.

We just have mist and fog today, maybe real rain coming tonight. There are still frozen areas in our woods, mostly gone now though. I still run across areas of frozen soil with the stump grinder!
 
I haven't seen the ground frozen like this before in all the years I have lived here. There is a low spot in the field right behind my house that can hold a little bit of water in a wet spell. It has been full now for weeks, and there are frost heaves around the edges of it that have it looking like a sink hole is opening up - even some soil falling in around the sides. It's solid ice at 6" depth still. Anyone who has to work the fields is in for a long wait - try to walk across it and you're up to your ankles in spots all of a sudden, in places that have always been hard.

Ooops - carry on. ==c
 
I haven't seen the ground frozen like this before in all the years I have lived here. There is a low spot in the field right behind my house that can hold a little bit of water in a wet spell. It has been full now for weeks, and there are frost heaves around the edges of it that have it looking like a sink hole is opening up - even some soil falling in around the sides. It's solid ice at 6" depth still. Anyone who has to work the fields is in for a long wait - try to walk across it and you're up to your ankles in spots all of a sudden, in places that have always been hard.

Ooops - carry on. ==c
My front wheels went into the Grassy area and I got stuck and had to winch out. Anywhere on the downward slope south of my house is soft and saturated. Anything with trees is frozen solid.
 
A layer of mud on top of a big layer of ice.

Well, in our case on the coast it's a big layer of granite and ledge. In the cleared area lower than the house the dirt is so saturated it just parts for the tires. I've never seen anything like this. The pole contractor stopped by today to start our estimate, he lives a bit further south than us on the coast. He's never seen anything like this either.
 
Just make sure those are NPT fittings, and not another type. Other than some homeowner upgrades on antique Fords, I’m not used to seeing NPT lines on tractors. Most are ORFS or ORB, and these seal with an o-ring, which can get damaged by a sloppy installer. In this case, replace the o-ring, just a few pennies, don’t gum up your fittings with tape!

When I work on equipment for friends, I find tape on everything from JIC to compression fittings, and not only does it almost never work, it makes a mess to clean up. Pipe tape or dope is for NPT taper threads, only!

While I have no personal experience on such equipment, I read threads like this to learn and live vicariously. I found this information on a different website that may also help those who like to learn/are geeky.

"Okay, if you want the down and dirty scoop, here it is. Hydraulic fittings can be, 1. Pipe thread- NPT or NPTF 2. Boss (oring sealed)
3. JIC (37º flared) 4. Autoclave - for extremely high pressure (like 10,000 psi) 5. SAE (45º flared for low pressure like 1,000 psi or less) 6. Tube fittings - like swagelock etc...

Pipe thread fittings - are either NPT or NPTF. The NPT do require some type of sealant like teflon tape or pipe dope to get a seal, as they only get a root to crest seal on the threads. NPTF (originally made for the fuel industry thus the "F") make up root to crest and cheek to cheek on the threads. these fitting are made to seal with out any sealant of any kind. A lot of company's now only make NPTF pipe thread fittings, so check with the manf and see what type you are buying.

Now concerning what type of sealant you use - Teflon tape is high cause of many of hydraulic failures, but only cause it is installed improperly, always start with the third thread when putting it on, as the fitting is tapered and the first 2 threads do not really make up real tight to get a good seal anyway. Pipe dope - Made for hydraulic systems is fine for use, the biggest mistake here, is applying too much.

Remember, just use sealant on NPT fittings. Do not put on flared fittings or oring seal fittings.

Just my 2 cents from almost 30 years in the fluid power industry. " credit to sawmillcreek.***
 
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We just have mist and fog today, maybe real rain coming tonight. There are still frozen areas in our woods, mostly gone now though. I still run across areas of frozen soil with the stump grinder!
They dropped the rainfall estimate to 1.79 inches, things were just starting to dry out. It looks like the rain will start anytime.
 
Thanks for the heads up. Generally I try to be minimal on PTFE tape, it's just a thread lubricant. I tried explaining it to my wife, but she still insists it's used to seal threads.
Actually, in this case, your wife is right! If you study the actual NPT profile specification, there is not a sharp crest, but a flat top to the thread crest. This creates a “spiral leak path”, and the tape is specified to fill that path. Use a good 2 turns on half inch and smaller fittings, three turns on 3/4” NPT.
 
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While I have no personal experience on such equipment, I read threads like this to learn and live vicariously. I found this information on a different website that may also help those who like to learn/are geeky.

"Okay, if you want the down and dirty scoop, here it is. Hydraulic fittings can be, 1. Pipe thread- NPT or NPTF 2. Boss (oring sealed)
3. JIC (37º flared) 4. Autoclave - for extremely high pressure (like 10,000 psi) 5. SAE (45º flared for low pressure like 1,000 psi or less) 6. Tube fittings - like swagelock etc...

Pipe thread fittings - are either NPT or NPTF. The NPT do require some type of sealant like teflon tape or pipe dope to get a seal, as they only get a root to crest seal on the threads. NPTF (originally made for the fuel industry thus the "F") make up root to crest and cheek to cheek on the threads. these fitting are made to seal with out any sealant of any kind. A lot of company's now only make NPTF pipe thread fittings, so check with the manf and see what type you are buying.

Now concerning what type of sealant you use - Teflon tape is high cause of many of hydraulic failures, but only cause it is installed improperly, always start with the third thread when putting it on, as the fitting is tapered and the first 2 threads do not really make up real tight to get a good seal anyway. Pipe dope - Made for hydraulic systems is fine for use, the biggest mistake here, is applying too much.

Remember, just use sealant on NPT fittings. Do not put on flared fittings or oring seal fittings.

Just my 2 cents from almost 30 years in the fluid power industry. " credit to sawmillcreek.***

Exactly. But only skip the tape when using new NPTF with new NPTF. If you’re mixing NPT with NPTF (as most do), or re-using fittings, go with the tape.

I happen to know the author of that blurb, I contributed to one of his other projects many years ago.
 
Exactly. But only skip the tape when using new NPTF with new NPTF. If you’re mixing NPT with NPTF (as most do), or re-using fittings, go with the tape.

I happen to know the author of that blurb, I contributed to one of his other projects many years ago.

Sometimes when I think I'm detail oriented, I read works by engineers.
 
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I agree with what you said Ashful, I did the pipe tape on the incoming line to the rear spools because the tractor mechanic said to, just a little to help seal it up. When I had the two rear spool kits put on the main feed line from the tractor to the spools always just had a small drip or seep. The mechanic at the tractor dealer recommended tightening or when changing the fluids take that apart and pipe thread it. I did the pipe thread and it worked great. Just a small wrap around the threads. I figure with use and just the way fitting are having a small drip here or there is normal but I'm sure like most I want no leaks or small drips if I can avoid it.
 
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I agree with what you said Ashful, I did the pipe tape on the incoming line to the rear spools because the tractor mechanic said to, just a little to help seal it up.

I also usually use tape on every taper pipe thread, whether NPT or NPTF. My main reason for this is that I have drawers full of fittings, and don’t sort NPT from NPTF. I also don’t trust most suppliers to properly segregate, or not mix them up. I think the only time you really need NPTF without tape is when working with corrosive fluids that will dissolve the tape, which is not something I really run into into typical household and hydraulic applications.
 
The pole contractor came yesterday, we hope to get a quote soon. They can't do the work for another month since they are the only guys in the area. This gives me time to order the backhoe and dig a trench so we can vury our line from the pole. So I'll be stopping by the dealer and leaving a check today on the way to get the groceries
 
I found a dribble after several hours of use. When I change the fluids I'll take the fitting apart and try again with some extra pipe tape.
The best product for fixing leaks is hemp
It needs a little extra work to apply,but the beauty of hemp is if the thread still leaks the hemp swells when in contact with liquid and stops leaking.
 
The best product for fixing leaks is hemp
It needs a little extra work to apply,but the beauty of hemp is if the thread still leaks the hemp swells when in contact with liquid and stops leaking.
Is there a brand or type you recommend? I assume you can't just use random hemp fibers in the threads.
 
While checking the grease points on my equipment the other day my wife pointed out I'm missing a tooth on my stump grinder. Initially I could only find them from the manufacturer for $50/ea. Then I found them from a Ford dealer (?) for $25. After some more digging I found a thread by another Shaver SC-50 owner and he found them for $7.00 with lock nut, they will even put new carbide tips if I manage not to lose the whole tooth. This significantly reduces the cost of use for that piece of equipment and makes me less nervous using it around my rocky soil. There seems to be more boulders than roots in the dirt!
 
That is a big difference in cost. Tractorbynet is a good place to go as well for some tractor an implement advise I know Thewoodlands is on there as well.
 
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That is a big difference in cost. Tractorbynet is a good place to go as well for some tractor an implement advise I know Thewoodlands is on there as well.
The teeth on our backhoe bucket cost 50 per, I ended up buying five extra after cracking on.
 
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Felled some more trees today. I'll move them tomorrow if the weather holds. Half of them were dead and I just pulled them over with the winch. I used the winch for all of them to be 100% sure my hinges worked.
 

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Felled some more trees today. I'll move them tomorrow if the weather holds. Half of them were dead and I just pulled them over with the winch. I used the winch for all of them to be 100% sure my hinges worked.
Nice work @SpaceBus , you'll have that extra room real quick the way you're working.

I was reading a thread on a tractor forum about grapples, some of the cylinders on some bota's bent, this response is from a epic contributor. I'm sure this could happen to any tractor.

The below info was posted by ovrszd.

A Grapple increases the chances of doing it. Curl the bucket forward, grab an object that's grounded or heavier than your FEL should handle, reverse the tractor. Now the resistance is trying to open the Grapple. Pull hard enough and you bend the ram from compression force.

Be real careful about putting yourself in this situation. A Grapple puts tremendous stresses on an FEL that it's not designed to handle.

If you have a good hardware or AG supply store near you might check with them. They can take the dimensions of your cylinder and order a replacement. Probably at considerably less cost than going thru Kubota
 
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Nice work @SpaceBus , you'll have that extra room real quick the way you're working.

I was reading a thread on a tractor forum about grapples, some of the cylinders on some bota's bent, this response is from a epic contributor. I'm sure this could happen to any tractor.

The below info was posted by ovrszd.

A Grapple increases the chances of doing it. Curl the bucket forward, grab an object that's grounded or heavier than your FEL should handle, reverse the tractor. Now the resistance is trying to open the Grapple. Pull hard enough and you bend the ram from compression force.

Be real careful about putting yourself in this situation. A Grapple puts tremendous stresses on an FEL that it's not designed to handle.

If you have a good hardware or AG supply store near you might check with them. They can take the dimensions of your cylinder and order a replacement. Probably at considerably less cost than going thru Kubota

I don't like to use the tractor itself to pull things out. If it doesn't come up with the FEL, then I try another way. I also read on another thread on TBN not to use the top lid of the grapple to pull things. I have been considering a ballast box, but if something doesn't lift with the stump grinder or BH (when it arrives) on the back of the tractor, I don't have any business trying to lift it. I definitely keep you words about not using the tractor as construction equipment at the front of my mind when using the tractor. The bulk of my work so far has been skidding trees/logs and a few rocks.
 
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