As I wrote when I did mine, I think the holes could maybe be 1/2" or so higher but not more than that.
It's great you found the original add-on piece. I think your warpage was caused by insulating the sides of the firebox too much. So much heat concentrated in a smaller area, the only places for it to go are out the front door and up into the baffle. Try splitting the side bricks into half thickness to gain back the lost firebox volume and it will radiate more heat out the sides as well.
I thought a lot about insulating the bottom of the baffle, but decided against it. IMO, it would change the operating nature of the stove drastically. The consequence of adding more insulation is increased rate of gasification of the wood load. The air system of the stove is not sophisticated enough to handle it, let alone control it. There's no air in the back of the firebox. Insulated on the bottom and sides with splits, the stove still retains its well-balanced character. Read the post early on where I used the Quadrafire stove to mimic the firing and air conditions of the Kent.
Tweaking a firebox is a balancing act.
If you watch the stove burn, you'll see the flames are always licking up against the front 4"-5" of the baffle. That's where you want the insulation. Until the steel becomes super-heated, flame in contact with steel will always kill the flame. The whole point of the mods is to move those flames forward, in front of the baffle holes, which is insulated and where the bleed air is waiting for them. It's a pre-arranged collision of all the ingredients needed.
Have fun and keep us posted.
It's great you found the original add-on piece. I think your warpage was caused by insulating the sides of the firebox too much. So much heat concentrated in a smaller area, the only places for it to go are out the front door and up into the baffle. Try splitting the side bricks into half thickness to gain back the lost firebox volume and it will radiate more heat out the sides as well.
I thought a lot about insulating the bottom of the baffle, but decided against it. IMO, it would change the operating nature of the stove drastically. The consequence of adding more insulation is increased rate of gasification of the wood load. The air system of the stove is not sophisticated enough to handle it, let alone control it. There's no air in the back of the firebox. Insulated on the bottom and sides with splits, the stove still retains its well-balanced character. Read the post early on where I used the Quadrafire stove to mimic the firing and air conditions of the Kent.
Tweaking a firebox is a balancing act.
If you watch the stove burn, you'll see the flames are always licking up against the front 4"-5" of the baffle. That's where you want the insulation. Until the steel becomes super-heated, flame in contact with steel will always kill the flame. The whole point of the mods is to move those flames forward, in front of the baffle holes, which is insulated and where the bleed air is waiting for them. It's a pre-arranged collision of all the ingredients needed.
Have fun and keep us posted.
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Awesome and thank you again! Any idea where to find the "Knowing your Kent Woodstove" booklet you mentioned?
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