Jotul Oslo thoughts after 1 month of use

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A wood stoves performance is almost completely related to house layout. Have you tried using fans to move the air around? Using the ceiling fans may be a good start.
 
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Ceiling fans will help move the heat around nicely. Try putting a larger piece in when you are about to start your overnight burn. I like to use bigger splits or even nice size rounds that I can get in there. Pack that with smaller stuff and once you get your secondaries going kick it down this should help with longer burn times just have to see what works better for your situation. Everyone's setup is a little different.
 
Large splits of DRY wood for an overnight burn.

How far from the stove are you measuring temp?

House seems to cool down fast, what kind of insulation do you have in the walls and ceilings?
 
Temps are being measured about 15 feet away and then one room away that's where I have my to temp gauges. I have blown in insulation in attic about two and a half feet of it. In the 2 by 4 walls I have the pink insulation that you staple to studs before you drywall. Can't remember the r value think it I'd r13 but not sure. Yes large pieces for overnight large rounds work great just need to be seasoned 2 to 3 plus years then fill in tabs with smaller splits. I have two large ceiling fans in the room with the stove and one large fan in living room next to that room and the opening going from one room to the other is ten feet wide seven feet tall very open floor plan.
 
Hope this helps.
 
Ok, so if I cut the air back/off at around 600, how long should those secondaries be firing?
I have to assume it depends on the dryness of the wood.
 
The size makes a difference as well but I would say at least two to four hours depending how much you keep cutting the air back, and how seasoned you wood is.
 
Ok, so if I cut the air back/off at around 600, how long should those secondaries be firing?
I have to assume it depends on the dryness of the wood.
Don't wait until 600F. Start cutting the air back as soon as the fire is burning robustly. That could be at 300F stove top with a cold start if the wood is nice and dry. The sooner the air is reduced the longer the secondary burn cycle will be. If one waits too long then a good portion of the wood gases have already been burnt off and the flue temps may be getting above the stove pipe temp rating.
 
Don't wait until 600F. Start cutting the air back as soon as the fire is burning robustly. That could be at 300F stove top with a cold start if the wood is nice and dry. The sooner the air is reduced the longer the secondary burn cycle will be. If one waits too long then a good portion of the wood gases have already been burnt off and the flue temps may be getting above the stove pipe temp rating.


Ok, well them my problem is that my wood isn't dry enough. I can get the fire to really get burning with 3-4 splits, but when I got to load it to the gills for the night burn, I cant get the temp to climb or burn robustly without leaving the side-load door open for a while. If I just leave it alone, it just burns out the coal bed in front of the air.

What has two thumbs, and is frustrated as hell? This guy.
 
I hear ya, damp wood is a bummer. Get some good quality highly compressed blocks or logs and mix in one or two with the fire to get it going. Or add some untreated construction cut-offs (2x4s) in with the cord wood. And keep an eye on the chimney. Low temps in the flue can sote up a chimney.
 
I hear ya, damp wood is a bummer. Get some good quality highly compressed blocks or logs and mix in one or two with the fire to get it going. Or add some untreated construction cut-offs (2x4s) in with the cord wood. And keep an eye on the chimney. Low temps in the flue can sote up a chimney.

The guys that did my install didn't recommend the compressed logs. Said they burn too hot, and could run the risk of a runaway burn.?.?
 
They need to be respected for the btus they contain. The bricks are smaller and not quite as dense. As long as only a couple are used at a time the risk is low, but don't use them if you are not comfortable with trying.
 
Does anyone else here burn or suppliment burn compressed logs?
How they working out for you?
 
I've used them they burn nicely ,try two or three at first to learn how they burn then you can adjust your loads they do burn hot.
 
Does anyone else here burn or suppliment burn compressed logs?
How they working out for you?
Have used them in the Oslo many times (when in the same boat you're in) they worked well for us. Like others have said, start with a few and figure out how they burn and go from there.
I forget the brand we settled on (maybe bio bricks, they were about the size of a real brick) different brands and sizes vary wildly in how well they do or don't burn but definitely worth a try.
 
See if you can get ahold of some seasoned wood from maybe someone else you know that burns. Having wet wood is a bummer, but on a better note you have wood it just needs to season more. Everyone has been in the same situation you are in when they start off with a new stove like this. Just keep processing more wood so you can get farther ahead and get some really good dry wood. As you see this site is great just keep posting you will get your setup to work then you will truly love that Oslo you purchased.
 
Feeling your pain. I burned through most of my primo wood (like you could drop a match on top of a piece, walk away and it would be blazing in minutes), trying to diagnose and fix my old set up. I've since replaced the liner (with the help of everyone here) and bought a new Oslo. For the first couple weeks with the good wood it was great. Had to be careful not to over fire with every reload because it approaches 700 degrees quickly and easily. Now with only slightly wetter wood, 25-30% moisture, I'm struggling to get stt's over 400 and am constantly having to reload. I have about 1/2 cord stacked near the stove, hoping that'll speed up the drying. Just moved into this house and started burning again. Brand new epa stove owner as well. Eager to get 5 cord css for next year.
THANK YOU HEARTH.COM MEMBERS FOR YOUR KNOWLEDGE AND ADVICE!
 
Here is a good thread on a fuel brick topic: https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/wood-fuel-bricks-in-my-epa-stove.150791/

I was really hesitant to do it until I got lots of good advice here on how to start. They have been a really good supplement to my cord wood so far.

I have a Hearthwise pellet firelogs shop 2 miles from me. I went and bought 100 of them.
12 hour burn time. Looks like a 5 lb pellet, and they claim to be better than any fire brick on market..
We shall see.

Thanks guys, I'll get back with results.
 
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Ok, I tried one hearthwise log Friday night to get a feel. Started on established coal bed. I could tell the rest of the house was cooling, but the living room stayed really warm.
Put in two for an overnight on Sat, but set thermostat (@ 60 F) as backup in case it wasn't enough. Woke up 7am, temp was at 64F.
I'm Okay with that.

Also. To go ahead and add these log/pellets in conjunction with wood. How do you guys stack it in firebox?
Pellet/ brick on bottom or top of wood, etc...
 
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Ok, I tried one hearthwise log Friday night to get a feel. Started on established coal bed. I could tell the rest of the house was cooling, but the living room stayed really warm.
Put in two for an overnight on Sat, but set thermostat (@ 60 F) as backup in case it wasn't enough. Woke up 7am, temp was at 64F.
I'm Okay with that.

Also. To go ahead and add these log/pellets in conjunction with wood. How do you guys stack it in firebox?
Pellet/ brick on bottom or top of wood, etc...
I put one brick on a bed of coals, all the way at the back of the firebox. I then stack a piece of wood in front of it, in front of the air supply, and some on top. That way it minimizes how much air is getting to the brick to reduce the risk of over firing the stove.
 
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