Jotul Oslo thoughts after 1 month of use
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Was it stacked up off the ground at that point, too? A year+ should be enough time for most species, but maybe not oak.
From a cold start it is not unusual to have low stove temps, but when you reload you should be able to get good secondaries and higher temps with the air mostly closed (certainly below half). What are you seeing for secondaries from the burn tubes?
Try closing the air control to perhaps 1/4, and if the burn stalls and secondaries quit, and temps drop, instead of opening up the primary air try just cracking the door for a few minutes instead. Then see how the secondaries behave, and what the temps do. It sounds that perhaps by keeping the air control open too far you might not be getting good secondary combustion and be pushing heat up the flue and getting shorter, less productive burns. Sub-par wood would worsen that effect.
I assume you are measuring temps in the stove corners... what do you get for temps in the middle of the top, or on the flue pipe?
Was it stacked up off the ground at that point, too? A year+ should be enough time for most species, but maybe not oak.
From a cold start it is not unusual to have low stove temps, but when you reload you should be able to get good secondaries and higher temps with the air mostly closed (certainly below half). What are you seeing for secondaries from the burn tubes?
Try closing the air control to perhaps 1/4, and if the burn stalls and secondaries quit, and temps drop, instead of opening up the primary air try just cracking the door for a few minutes instead. Then re-close it and see how the secondaries behave, and what the temps do. It sounds that perhaps by keeping the air control open too far you might not be getting good secondary combustion and be pushing heat up the flue and getting shorter, less productive burns. Sub-par wood would worsen that effect.
I assume you are measuring temps in the stove corners... what do you get for temps in the middle of the top, or on the flue pipe?
Rearscreen
Minister of Fire
I've posted this before, not sure how it helps, but my experience with Jotuls have been basically - wood eaters. With personal experience and observing others. Had one in an uninsulated house (new girlfriend who had the Jotul F500 for over 6 years) and used it for 2 weeks in October '14. At that point I realized that the consumption of wood for the season would be over the top. I ordered the PH. My girlfriend burned, year after year 5 cords a winter. Installed PH. Same house, same stack. End of season results: a bit over 2 cords and she said the house was never so comfortable. I thought it was comfortable also even in a drafty old house. The wood we used was believe it or not cut two months prior - a maple on the property.
Warm_in_NH
Minister of Fire
That oak needs another year or two at least. It produces GREAT heat when it's good and dry because it's so dense, but because it's so dense it takes a couple years to really dry out.
Sounds like your stack is good, maybe even a little on the tall side, this may give too much draw and chew through the wood a little faster than normal, others here know more about that.
I often suggest buying a couple of over priced shrink wrapped bundles of firewood from the local hardware store (or just about anywhere these days), check it was a MM, I've had it hiss and piss water out of the ends, once you find it's good and dry, burn that for an evening and see if there's a difference.
I also find the Oslo gets longer burns if you let the ash pan fill up so all the coals don't just drop through the grate.
Sounds like your stack is good, maybe even a little on the tall side, this may give too much draw and chew through the wood a little faster than normal, others here know more about that.
I often suggest buying a couple of over priced shrink wrapped bundles of firewood from the local hardware store (or just about anywhere these days), check it was a MM, I've had it hiss and piss water out of the ends, once you find it's good and dry, burn that for an evening and see if there's a difference.
I also find the Oslo gets longer burns if you let the ash pan fill up so all the coals don't just drop through the grate.
Yes, a key damper might be a good idea if it seems to be overdrafting.
I also found my Harman gets longer burns if I let the ash pan fill up so all the coals don't just drop through the grate.
There are a lot of very satisfied Jotul users on this list. I've been burning for 6 yrs. now and have never considered my stove a wood eater. In my years of burning, and there were some VERY cold winters, the most I have burnt is 3 cord and that wood was seasoned 2+ yrs. and house (sometimes ~~) got up to around 78 degrees (and then had to open the windows to cool the house down). It takes awhile to 'tune in' to burning with EPA stoves but once you do you will experience near to nirvana. 
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Wood consumption like burn times is relative to the conditions of operation and the operator. The same stove could behave 100% differently in different circumstances. Put it in a leaky house or basement with poor insulation and it is likely to be run twice as hard and eat twice as much wood as in a house with decent insulation.
claydogg84
Minister of Fire
Rearscreen has been around for a while and only seems to post in topics regarding his dissatisfaction with his girlfriends Oslo. The verdict in the original thread of his was he was operating it incorrectly, hence the admission of him using wood that was split 2 months prior. Please take his advice with a grain of salt.
heavy hammer
Minister of Fire
I agree with begreen I replaced an old Sears stove with my Oslo, but I also put 24 plus inches of insulation in my attire new windows etc. my wood consumption was nearly cut in half while the temps in the house can easily get in the 80's not even trying. There are a lot of stoves out there for many different types of burners with many different kinds of burning needs. Just need to find what works for you and you situation.
I to burn all oak. You may have read here, oak does take 2-3 years to season. I burn 3-4 year old. What a difference it makes getting the stove hot. Keep the butt ends away from the glass.
Rearscreen
Minister of Fire
Yeah definitely take what I say with a grain of salt, I'm kind of an idiot when it comes to wood burning stoves. I've had very little experience with them so I really don't know what I'm talking about.
Ok a quick update Been burning non stop the last two days as temps are in the teens at night with wind chills below that . I came home from work at 6 30 house was at 65 degrees which is fine for me although the wife likes it a little warmer. I loaded 3 large splits to the hot coals ,fired it up wide open for a few minutes and cut it down to half than three quarters or so with in 10 minutes. Wood burned up to coals in two hours. I criss crossed the splits to get plenty of air .( i grew up with fireplaces} The temps seem to settle at about 250 degrees. Thermometer is in back right corner. Air vent works properly. Its either the wood or too much draft I think. I do see some secondary burn and flames cut down with vent nearly closed but wood still burns fast. Thanks for all the tips and advice.
No need to stack like Lincoln logs -- you'll have plenty of air space in the firebox when you really want more of that space filled with fuel . . . just place smaller splits or kindling on the coals and medium to larger splits on top . . . keep the air open until the fire gets going and temp comes up in the stove/chimney and then start dialing back the air . . . in most cases this should result in lots of heat, good secondaries and a decent burn time (flames and then good sized coals for several hours depending on the wood species, how well seasoned the wood is and how much wood is in the firebox.)
CentralVAWoodHeat
Minister of Fire
It's probably the wood. I have a Castine, the little brother of the Oslo. I heat 2000 sq ft with it even though the fire box is super small. It is my first EPA stove and it took me a year to learn that the wood I burnt for decades in old stoves was not even close to dry enough.
claydogg84
Minister of Fire
3 splits to coals in 2 hours isn't all that bad. The coaling stage is considered part of the "burn time".
jatoxico
Minister of Fire
Packing a little tighter can help extend burn time. Not sure where the recommended place to measure on the Oslo is but 250 stove top and blackened glass are signs the wood is not optimal. May be good enough to get by though. Have you checked all the gaskets to make sure everything is seated and tight (e.g. dollar bill test door), baffles are seated?
Definitely sounds like wet wood. If that 26' chimney is 6 inch pipe or flex liner all the way, that should draft like a jet. I have no problem maintaining 400 to 500 surface temperatures with a shorter chimney. If you think the tight house might be the problem, crack a window a little and see if the fire burns more briskly. If so, it may be time for an OAK.
It drafts great creats a tornado of flame that fills the firebox until i cut it back. Glass has been staying cleaner also. Wood must not be fully aged. Right now Im at 275 or so house is 66 degrees, 11 degrees outside.
claydogg84
Minister of Fire
275 isn't hot enough to get usable heat in this weather. Is that with a full load of wood? I generally load up, leave the door cracked till it hits 400, shut the door with air slide all the way open, and finally start shutting the air down in stages when it hits 500. These temperatures are being read with a Condar stovetop thermometer on the rear right corner.
You should be getting above 400 temps for around 4 hours.
I can get it to 400 with door cracked and vent wide open but once I close door and cut back air temp drops to under 300. Dosent matter how much wood is in it.
how old is your wood ? I am still able to keep the house fairly warm at 65 or so. Its now 9 degrees out. I have a large open floor plan on the first floor. The second floor is warmer.
claydogg84
Minister of Fire
The stuff I'm burning now is all around 20-24 months and I still have wood way too high in MC. The reason for that is because I've got splits that are too large (split the wood for my previous stove). What kind of thermometer, and where do you have it placed? When you shut the door at 400, are the flames still very active? The firebox should be completely engulfed with flames with a full stove at those temps. Last year I had similar problems to yours when I attempted to burn just 18 month Oak. The flames would die off after shutting the door, no matter what temp.
Not sure of brand of thermometer , wife got it at a fireplace dealer. Its yellow green (ideal) and red. Have it in right rear corner. How many splits do you use to fill the box. Ive never tried really stuffing it. Dont want to damage burn tubes by knocking splits into them. Yes it burns great with door shut and even air partly to mostly closed. Just dosent stay as hot. Im at 300 right now. Seems to burn hotter with ash pan fuller. Should I leave pan full and just sweep out box ?
Ok I PACKED the box with about 8 splits and got it up to 400 before cutting it back about 95 % Seeing nothing but secondary burn tube flames and lots of orange. Hope it keeps burning to morning.
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