Jotul c550 Rockland tips thread

[jadm]

[quote author="HopWallop" date="1229459612"]The manual under General Maintenance does call for it to be removed for inspection and cleaning of the flue connector, liner and chimney. In looking at it I don't see why it would have to come all of the way out. Maybe a little so you could get the surround panel off. I am also going to let the chimney sweep take care of it. I just want to make sure he puts it back together correctly. I am wondering how often I should have it cleaned. I was ok with once a year with the fireplace, but I am burning everyday now.[/quote

With a full liner I don't see why insert has to be pulled to be inspected. I never did that with my other insert....Pulling this thing out is no easy task and I can't imagine doing that on a regular basis. I'll check with my sweep and see what he say.

I wonder what others with inserts here who have been using them for years would say about this...maybe a good thread for not just 550 owners.

 

[MikeC]

Trying to wiggle a 400-500 lb insert would be difficult in my case. I guess I will let the chimney sweep clean it out when the time comes.

 

[JJEGLBS]

Related to the subtopic of pulling the c550 out -- I had mine installed about 1.5 months ago and I am generally please with it. However, I feel that I could capture some more heat if a block-off plate had been installed. Unfortunately, I came to this realization after the installation (should have searched this site earlier). The installer only put insulation in the chimney (with an fully-lined insulated flue).

I have looked at the very good step-by-step instructions for installing a block-off plate at this site and think I could do it if I could safely remove and put back the insert. So, I would like to take a crack at installing a block-off plate in the summer. Notwithstanding the weight of the insert, is it difficult to disconnect it from the flue and pull it out enough to install a block-off plate (note: there is not much clearance between the insert and the fireplace, if that matters) and the move the insert back and reconnect it safely to the flue?

 

[MikeC]

Related to the subtopic of pulling the c550 out -- I had mine installed about 1.5 months ago and I am generally please with it. However, I feel that I could capture some more heat if a block-off plate had been installed. Unfortunately, I came to this realization after the installation (should have searched this site earlier). The installer only put insulation in the chimney (with an fully-lined insulated flue).

I have looked at the very good step-by-step instructions for installing a block-off plate at this site and think I could do it if I could safely remove and put back the insert. So, I would like to take a crack at installing a block-off plate in the summer. Notwithstanding the weight of the insert, is it difficult to disconnect it from the flue and pull it out enough to install a block-off plate (note: there is not much clearance between the insert and the fireplace, if that matters) and the move the insert back and reconnect it safely to the flue?

I am looking over the invoice and no block off plate is mentioned. Should I call and inquire about a block off plate? I assume this will be another expense....

 

[MikeC]

Related to the subtopic of pulling the c550 out -- I had mine installed about 1.5 months ago and I am generally please with it. However, I feel that I could capture some more heat if a block-off plate had been installed. Unfortunately, I came to this realization after the installation (should have searched this site earlier). The installer only put insulation in the chimney (with an fully-lined insulated flue).

I have looked at the very good step-by-step instructions for installing a block-off plate at this site and think I could do it if I could safely remove and put back the insert. So, I would like to take a crack at installing a block-off plate in the summer. Notwithstanding the weight of the insert, is it difficult to disconnect it from the flue and pull it out enough to install a block-off plate (note: there is not much clearance between the insert and the fireplace, if that matters) and the move the insert back and reconnect it safely to the flue?

I am looking over the invoice and no block off plate is mentioned. Should I call and inquire about a block off plate? I assume this will be another expense....

 

[JJEGLBS]

Related to the subtopic of pulling the c550 out -- I had mine installed about 1.5 months ago and I am generally please with it. However, I feel that I could capture some more heat if a block-off plate had been installed. Unfortunately, I came to this realization after the installation (should have searched this site earlier). The installer only put insulation in the chimney (with an fully-lined insulated flue).

I have looked at the very good step-by-step instructions for installing a block-off plate at this site and think I could do it if I could safely remove and put back the insert. So, I would like to take a crack at installing a block-off plate in the summer. Notwithstanding the weight of the insert, is it difficult to disconnect it from the flue and pull it out enough to install a block-off plate (note: there is not much clearance between the insert and the fireplace, if that matters) and the move the insert back and reconnect it safely to the flue?

I am looking over the invoice and no block off plate is mentioned. Should I call and inquire about a block off plate? I assume this will be another expense....

Yeah, after looking at other posts the block-off plate is not required (with a full insulated liner) but seems to be recommended. So, it's likely it was not installed unless you asked for it.

 

[Summertime]

For what reason would you have to pull the insert out? I would think all you would have to do is run a brush down the liner of the stove.What else do you have to clean? the stove temps should be hot enough to burn any accumulation on the heat transfer tubes,especially if there is a block off plate..

 

[mcollect]

Thanks to all! I used an IR thermometer and the flue pipe is at 550 to 600 the same as the glass. My wood is not really dry but after resplitting and stacking under the hearth for a week it is close. Heating my weekend house, 2300 sq. ft. 97 windows, totally with the insert. This isert is the best investment I could hope for. Again thanks to all for the information.

 

[firebug360]

Hi guys, gotta question on fuel. Has anyone tried using duraflame logs or other "eco-friendly" logs in their 550? The instruction manual says to only use wood, however I have read that these logs are ok to use and don't use any petroleum waxes. My friend who has a cast iron wood stove says they are fantastic. Looking forward to your responses.

 

[gibson]

Are you thinking of bio bricks? Duraflame logs should not be used in a stove.

 

[88steve]

HI ALL, after much trial and error I'm finally getting the bugs out of my rockland, it seems my problems with getting the fires started were due to unseasoned wood.i had the repair tech from the stove store come to check the bad left side fan and he took one look at the inside of the stove and stated wet wood. he will bring a draft meter when he returns with the new fan to verify good draft i must admit I'm impressed with the customer service with the stove store ASHWOOD,farmingville li ny, id recommend them to anyone in the area shopping for a stove. i purchased a pallet of kiln dried mixed hardwood to verify if i had a wood problem and the stuff is incredible it starts/burns great.overall I'm very happy with my choice of the jotul over the v.c. montpelier ,thanks again for the feedback on my starting problems, will post pics when i figure out how to.steve

 

[firebug360]

Yes, biobricks. My dealer at one point recommended I test for wood dryness problems by using envirologs. I never did test them because I couldn't find that particular brand, but I do see that duraflame is sold just about everywhere. Hopefully he didn't give me another bad piece of advice.

Steve - glad to hear you found your problem! I wish your dealer was closer to me. I'd use them for any future work. Unfortunately I didn't have the best experience with mine, in particular with their post-install customer service.

Enjoy your stove. I'm amazed at how this thing heats up our entire house in no-time!

 

[MikeC]

For what reason would you have to pull the insert out? I would think all you would have to do is run a brush down the liner of the stove.What else do you have to clean? the stove temps should be hot enough to burn any accumulation on the heat transfer tubes,especially if there is a block off plate..

Hi summertime: I was reading other posts(from other topics) and assumed that the insert needed to be pulled out to clean it. I was wondering for reference.

Should I request a block off plate?

Thanks

 

[jadm]

HI ALL, after much trial and error I'm finally getting the bugs out of my rockland, it seems my problems with getting the fires started were due to unseasoned wood.i had the repair tech from the stove store come to check the bad left side fan and he took one look at the inside of the stove and stated wet wood. he will bring a draft meter when he returns with the new fan to verify good draft i must admit I'm impressed with the customer service with the stove store ASHWOOD,farmingville li ny, id recommend them to anyone in the area shopping for a stove. i purchased a pallet of kiln dried mixed hardwood to verify if i had a wood problem and the stuff is incredible it starts/burns great.overall I'm very happy with my choice of the jotul over the v.c. montpelier ,thanks again for the feedback on my starting problems, will post pics when i figure out how to.steve

Glad to hear you got some knowledgeable help. Makes such a difference.

I learned about seasoned wood here. Had no clue before and now I know from experience. I go to my supplier in person and request wood that has been cut and split for awhile. I check it on the truck before it is dumped and I use a moisture meter....all things I learned here.

I also order my wood in March instead of mid summer. (We live in a very dry climate so March is plenty of time to finish drying. Last year wood that was delivered was already down to 20%).

Now the fun begins - figuring out when to load and how to cut back air etc....many hours of enjoyment with heat and without the aggravation. :coolsmile:

 

[firebug360]

Hi Perplexed. What make/model moisture content reader do you use and would you recommend it? I've been trying to find one locally without having to buy online but haven't had any luck. I've seen mixed reviews online so am unsure which ones work well and which don't. I definitely want to have one next time we get a delivery. I also need to get better at eyeball measuring 1 cord. Most suppliers around here don't stack and the ones that do either charge way too much or only give you 3/4 cord to make up for the stacking costs. I have a feeling the last one or two dropoffs were less than a cord.

Thanks!

 

[gibson]

HI ALL, after much trial and error I'm finally getting the bugs out of my rockland, it seems my problems with getting the fires started were due to unseasoned wood.i had the repair tech from the stove store come to check the bad left side fan and he took one look at the inside of the stove and stated wet wood. he will bring a draft meter when he returns with the new fan to verify good draft i must admit I'm impressed with the customer service with the stove store ASHWOOD,farmingville li ny, id recommend them to anyone in the area shopping for a stove. i purchased a pallet of kiln dried mixed hardwood to verify if i had a wood problem and the stuff is incredible it starts/burns great.overall I'm very happy with my choice of the jotul over the v.c. montpelier ,thanks again for the feedback on my starting problems, will post pics when i figure out how to.steve

Glad to hear you got some knowledgeable help. Makes such a difference.

I learned about seasoned wood here. Had no clue before and now I know from experience. I go to my supplier in person and request wood that has been cut and split for awhile. I check it on the truck before it is dumped and I use a moisture meter....all things I learned here.

I also order my wood in March instead of mid summer. (We live in a very dry climate so March is plenty of time to finish drying. Last year wood that was delivered was already down to 20%).

Now the fun begins - figuring out when to load and how to cut back air etc....many hours of enjoyment with heat and without the aggravation. :coolsmile:

This is my first year as well, although I bought my wood last year in March. I am buying my wood this year in January, green and in bulk.

 

[jadm]

Hi Perplexed. What make/model moisture content reader do you use and would you recommend it? I've been trying to find one locally without having to buy online but haven't had any luck. I've seen mixed reviews online so am unsure which ones work well and which don't. I definitely want to have one next time we get a delivery. I also need to get better at eyeball measuring 1 cord. Most suppliers around here don't stack and the ones that do either charge way too much or only give you 3/4 cord to make up for the stacking costs. I have a feeling the last one or two dropoffs were less than a cord.

Thanks!

My moisture meter is an Extech M0210. I found it on line. Can't remember where - it was last winter. I do remember they were very consumer friendly.

If you look on woodheat.com there is an article on wood measurements and how full a cord will fill a pick up truck - good pictures to give you a better idea of what you are getting. I lucked out with a reliable supplier whose business is pretty close to where we live - cuts down on delivery charges.

 

[ctrockland]

i took the sliding mechanisim out, 3 bolts and took the face plate off.. thats where the air comes in and made the same hole as in the right slider and put it on the left...works so much better.

 

[Bizango1]

Hello,

I've read through the entire thread and want to thank everyone for taking the time to post all this information, its very helpful. I've been burning my Jotul 550 for about 3 weeks now and it works great. Two complaints: 1. I've had to clean the glass way to much. I know it is supposed to have an airwash system for the glass but it doesn't seem to work all that well. I've tried the wet rag and ash to clean the glass and that works ok but i'm concerned about it being too abrasive. The razor blade works fine but does require a bit of elbow grease. I understand this could be because of the wood but it is supposed to be seasoned and burns really well. Has anyone had any luck with a solution that helps clean the glass? I've tried a bunch of comercailly available cleaning products with no success. 2. My stove is in a 20' by 20' half cathederal ceiling room attached to the main house and the heat really doesn't disperse down the hallway at all. I'm planning on trying a fan in the corner of the doorway. Any suggestions for a high end quietish fan?

Thanks all and Happy New Year!

 

[Custerstove]

To keep the glass clean, don't let the wood or hot coals touch the glass. If you learn to predict how the logs will collapse during an overnight burn you will never have a problem. When you load the stove up, stack the wood behind the andirons. Also, if you stack your wood several pieces high there is more chance that the wood will eventually fall against the glass when you're not looking. A lot of people claim that unseasoned wood can put soot on the glass window, but in my experience the only time the glass needs cleaned is when wood and coals fall against the window.

A little bit of soot is not unusual and can be cleaned off with water in 30 seconds.

 

[Bizango1]

Custer,

Thanks for the response, I wish I had your luck with the glass. Your comments make me thing there is something wrong with my stove. The wood has never been beyond the anirons and has certainly never touched the glass. After two or three burns i have a heavy black build up like some one spackled sap that dried on the inside of the glass. It is not soot and it will not come off with water. I guess I'll ask my dealer.

Thanks!

 

[Bizango1]

As a follow up the my glass problem, I spoke to my dealer today while I was purchasing a thermometer. I told him was having a great deal of deposit on the glass and then mentioned that I cleaned it with a razor and some ash on a wet raghe recoiled and had a look of pain on his face. He claimed I should never use a razor or anything abrasive like ash on the glass because I would create microscopic scrapes on the the glass that the soot would be drawn to and I would always have problems now. :red: I think I may not have been burning hot enough, closing down the airflow prematurely. He claims the airwash will only work well when the fire is at its hottest.

 

[Summertime]

As a follow up the my glass problem, I spoke to my dealer today while I was purchasing a thermometer. I told him was having a great deal of deposit on the glass and then mentioned that I cleaned it with a razor and some ash on a wet ragged he recoiled and had a look of pain on his face. He claimed I should never use a razor or anything abrasive like ash on the glass because I would create microscopic scraps on the the glass that the soot would be drawn to and I would always have problems now. :red: I think I may not have been burning hot enough closing down the airflow prematurely. He claims the airwash will only work well when the fire is at its hottest.

I wouldn't think there would be anything abrasive in the ash as it is merely burnt wood?? I used to have a lot of buildup on the glass when I first started burning but when I started burning hotter fires the glass is staying much cleaner.

 

[woodheat]

As long as you burn your stove up in the 450-600 range you should and not shut it down to soon your glass will stay clean. It does collect a little on the lower left and right side because the fire is not burning a hot there, but I have not cleaned my glass in a month. I find if I get impatient or try to shut the stove down before it get hot enough, then the glass gets dirty. Have you read on the thread where to place your thermometer? Do not put it in that little spot above the door, the readings you get will be way lower that it actually is because that is where the cold air comes in. Put it in the center of the slot where the fan air blows out of.

i took the sliding mechanism out, 3 bolts and took the face plate off.. that's where the air comes in and made the same hole as in the right slider and put it on the left...works so much better.

Ctrockland - Can you explain more in depth what you did as a modification, why, and what it improved? Thanks.

 

[Bizango1]

summertime,

Thank you for the info on the glass, I think I need to burn hotter. Also good point on the ash, I have no clue if it is abrasive or not.

Woodheat,

Thank you for the info on the thermometer, I have it in the right spot now.