SpaceBus
Minister of Fire
Stove top temp seems to mean little in terms of regulating these small box stoves. Does the hot plate lift off the top on the 602?
Jotul 602 CB Install
- Thread starter Todd
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SpaceBus
Minister of Fire
I wish mine did. It's a pain to get the soot/ash from above the baffle on the Morso and the blanket probably won't survive coming out again.
Smolder
Member
Most of my village in Ontario is 1840s log cabins. All are heated with wood. They use lots of wood but are warm enough. They all are older and love smoke dragons.
Ive had a little while now to play with this stove and a little more work buttoning up the cabin. The stove is working out well, it was -15 this morning and the inside temps were nice and cozy.
No problems with overnight burns, always enough coals for a morning reload. If i want a lot of heat I'll 3 or 4 splits with the air cracked about 1/4 which gives me a 3-4 hour burn and a good 600+ stove top temp.
Also been doing all my cooking on the stove. Got to be careful, that hot plate heats up fast, just takes a small stick or two to get my cast iron skillet up to temp.
One thing I dont like about this stove is the door handle. It's not the most snug fit. Sometimes I can look on that side of the door and see the glow of the fire box. It doesnt seem to effect the burn or dirty the glass but I'm thinking of a future mod in the works for a better seal. If anyone can point me in the direction of any topic on this I'd appreciate it.
No problems with overnight burns, always enough coals for a morning reload. If i want a lot of heat I'll 3 or 4 splits with the air cracked about 1/4 which gives me a 3-4 hour burn and a good 600+ stove top temp.
Also been doing all my cooking on the stove. Got to be careful, that hot plate heats up fast, just takes a small stick or two to get my cast iron skillet up to temp.
One thing I dont like about this stove is the door handle. It's not the most snug fit. Sometimes I can look on that side of the door and see the glow of the fire box. It doesnt seem to effect the burn or dirty the glass but I'm thinking of a future mod in the works for a better seal. If anyone can point me in the direction of any topic on this I'd appreciate it.
If you haven't tried it already, you might be able to make a minor snuggness adjustment by loosening the bolt that fastens the "U" hook that the door latch is held by, turn hook clockwise or counter-clockwise, and re-tighten.
Thanks for the suggestion. I did try that but didnt seem to help. I think I'm going to try and stick a washer or two behind that bolt and see if that helps the latch sit further down in the U. Or even try and bend the U so its a bit deeper.
I ended up calling the dealer on the door latch issue and they sent me a new one under warranty. I haven't installed it since I fixed mine with a little washer and bending the U bracket a bit.
Stove is working well. My cabin temps climbed a little more after I enclosed my stairwell to the basement. I'm easily sitting at 70-75 in the great room and a couple degrees higher up in the loft. The cabin will drop to about 62 by morning so I tend to burn a little propane to help boost that up a bit.
I kind a like burning softer woods in this stove. When I burn Locust, Oak or Hard Maple the coaling seems to build up and last forever. Softer woods like Aspen and Pine burn hot, leave just enough coals for reload and also seem to leave less ash. With hardwood I was shoveling out ash every other day, softwood every 4th day. I have lots of scrap wood and Lodgepole log cuttoffs from the build Ive been burning during the day then load it up with Harwood for an overnight burn.
Stove is working well. My cabin temps climbed a little more after I enclosed my stairwell to the basement. I'm easily sitting at 70-75 in the great room and a couple degrees higher up in the loft. The cabin will drop to about 62 by morning so I tend to burn a little propane to help boost that up a bit.
I kind a like burning softer woods in this stove. When I burn Locust, Oak or Hard Maple the coaling seems to build up and last forever. Softer woods like Aspen and Pine burn hot, leave just enough coals for reload and also seem to leave less ash. With hardwood I was shoveling out ash every other day, softwood every 4th day. I have lots of scrap wood and Lodgepole log cuttoffs from the build Ive been burning during the day then load it up with Harwood for an overnight burn.
Lol, I wish I would of went bigger. Its 24x36 with a 8x24 lean to wood shed off the back.
SpaceBus
Minister of Fire
My preferred ritual before getting the cookstove. Now when I wake up to the house being in the mid 60's I load up the Morso with hardwoods and then also get the cookstove going for breakfast and to heat the house very fast. I can take the house from 58-62 up to 72-78 df in just a few hours. I prefer to burn softwoods in the cookstove to avoid overheating the house, or my food. I'm hoping to hold the house overnight temps a bit higher once we finish insulating the house. Currently the band joist and five stud bays are uninsulated, so wicked heat loss overnight downstairs in the stove room. When the house was better insulated I could hold coals longer as well, but on a load of hard maple I can still have coals aftee 8-9 hours. One morning I had a few embers after 12 hours.
Is your wood cook stove your only source for cooking? I'm still waiting on my propane oven range hook up so I've been cooking with my 602 for over a month. Took a little practice but Im getting the hang of it. It doesnt take long for that little cook plate to heat up a cast iron skillet.
SpaceBus
Minister of Fire
We have an electric kettle, microwave (also a convection oven), and toaster, but otherwise we use the wood cooker. I figure around mid May or June there will be no wood baking and by July all non electric cooking will be done mostly outside. I've seen some clever smokeless wood grills, but I was using a portable propane grill (which I accidentally broke...) this past summer.
Good idea, I never thought of that but we are considering an outside kitchen under a pavilion we could build with our left over logs. Maybe even an outdoor fireplace to go with it.
Today I rcvd a new door latch U bracket under warranty. It is more square shaped |_| than the original which was a smooth rounded U. It seems a little more snug fit.
Stove still performs great! Have some bitterly cold below 0 temps on the way later this week, should be a good test for this little stove.
Stove still performs great! Have some bitterly cold below 0 temps on the way later this week, should be a good test for this little stove.
Anyone with this stove ever notice a temp difference on top between the right and left sides? I've been noticing the right side between the hot plate and top flue collar is always 50-100 degrees hotter than the same place on the left side. Doesn't matter how I load it or where the air is set. Maybe its just the way air circulates inside the firebox?
-28 low yesterday, wind chills below zero all day, stove had a hard time keeping the cabin above 65, had to feed it every 2 hours. The wife was cold said we need a bigger stove lol. So far I think the stove is properly sized for 90-95% of the time and I just can't see spending another 2 to 3k for a larger stove when we can just boost the temps a bit with a little propane.
-28 low yesterday, wind chills below zero all day, stove had a hard time keeping the cabin above 65, had to feed it every 2 hours. The wife was cold said we need a bigger stove lol. So far I think the stove is properly sized for 90-95% of the time and I just can't see spending another 2 to 3k for a larger stove when we can just boost the temps a bit with a little propane.
Friday morning the stove went thermonuclear on me! Hot plate was at 995°, stove top 800+, internal flue temp 900, she was pumping out the heat I tell ya! These temps didnt last long and thought maybe it was just a fluke, maybe cold 10 degree temps, strong winds and good dry Locust so I let it burn down, added another load and watched the temps carefully but same thing happened again. I didnt have time to check the stove out since I needed to leave for the weekend so I waited until it was down to coals and left.
Today with a cold stove I cleaned her up real good and inspected every inch. No cracks, no warpage and glass passed dollar bill test. The stove has burned beautifully all day and I have total control.
Seems weird, maybe I'm just not use to the non cat stove yet? It still reads hotter on the right side top verses the left, maybe just the way it is.
Today with a cold stove I cleaned her up real good and inspected every inch. No cracks, no warpage and glass passed dollar bill test. The stove has burned beautifully all day and I have total control.
Seems weird, maybe I'm just not use to the non cat stove yet? It still reads hotter on the right side top verses the left, maybe just the way it is.
Timing for closing down the air is important. Let it go too long and the wood starts outgassing all at once. This is especially true with a load of many small splits.
Yeah, I can pretty much close down the air right away on a cold windy day if I load up on a good hot coal bed. I might need a pipe damper for better control on those days.
SpaceBus
Minister of Fire
I think about one for my Morso. Perhaps after I reline the chimney and get some double wall I'll really need it.
Ever think about covering the secondary air supply some instead of a damper? I may play around with mine a bit before I decide on a damper.
SpaceBus
Minister of Fire
I tried messing with the secondary air supply by covering it with aluminum foil. The negative pressure developed by the stove was enough to hold the foil in place for testing. Overall it was easier to control the stove by cutting the air sooner. On a windy day my stove will take off very quickly and I either load less or cut the air more to control it. Sometimes cutting the air lower doesn't work because the wind dies and then the fire smolders. I think a pipe damper would be the best option since it slows down the flue rather than the intake air directly. In fact I was at a friend's house with a giant antique cast iron parlor stove c. 1890's, and closing the air down did nothing to stop the fire and the pipe temp was approaching 700 df surface temp on 8" single wall. Since it was very windy outside the only thing that would slow the fire was the pipe damper.
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