Well, here's what I have. A pipe damper set at a low -.06 draft, with the air controls 100 % closed. Now in reading the two descriptions, and not looking at the videos, I would expect to see your fire looking larger than mine but that is not the case. To me, my fire looks maybe 10 times bigger than yours. Does anybody have any ideas as to why?
Thank you.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/73330363@N05/15998825207/
It's so tough, js, without being there. That's why I suggested having a different Quad dealer inspect your system and try to start a fire/maintain a fire at lower temperatures. And I'm not talking about merely the ability to start a fire in your firebox. I mean to do it the way the manual describes, using full primary air and then bringing it down in increments, which is the way the stove is designed to be used.
From that limited video, I can see that your wood splits are much smaller than mine. Small splits have greater surface area, and result in faster, hotter fires. The other obvious thing is that your draft is much higher. That's a function of your chimney, which is problematic. You needed a lot of chimney to get close to your roofline, yet that much length is giving you a problem with an easy-breathing stove.
The manometer is intended to test whether you have proper draft. You are using your manometer to operate your stove. Obviously, you're doing it in an effort to control your very strong draft, but you shouldn't use those numbers as evidence that the fire should be smaller. With the damper, you're getting to -0.6. The manual says that low burn should be -0.4 with (low primary, no damper) and -1.0 at high (primary open, presumably). Page 7.
"To be sure that your appliance burns properly, the chimney
draft ( static pressure) should be approximately - .0 4 inch water
column ( W .C .) during a low burn and - .1 0 inch W .C . during a
high burn, measured 6 inches ( 1 5 2 mm) above the top of the
appliance after one hour of operation at each burn setting."
There are very specific instructions for when to take that reading.
Those are my ideas. If you're not willing to bring in a professional to help you in this situation, and you can't figure this out yourself, you should probably sell the stove. It has significant value, if it isn't warped by the high temps. I feel bad for you because the dealer that sold you the chimney should be helping with a remedy so that this excellent stove can be operated as designed. The manual states:
"Your local dealer is the expert in your geographic
area and can usually make suggestions or discover solutions
that will easily correct your flue problem
area and can usually make suggestions or discover solutions
that will easily correct your flue problem"
These are expensive stoves, and part of what you pay for is dealer support. Due to the way your credit card dispute turned out, I can understand your reluctance to go back to the same dealer for help. Having said that, the credit card dispute ended, and they got paid. One way or another, I think you're going to need help not available on an internet forum. That means someone else at your house operating your stove and giving you advice on how to
proceed.
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