Is a stove top thermometer enough or do I need a flue thermometer as well for my new GM 60?

[begreen]

Ok, so to verify the Condar's temperature I inserted my professional cooking probe into the flue. That's precise to about a degree or two.
Turns out that when the Condar shows 200F (as far as a correct reading is possible there), the real flue temperature is around 320F.

So well above the boiling point of water, but then again the probe location is only 2 feet above the stove, and the temperature will drop further along the flue...

I am seeing similar results. The Condar probe will eventually equalize, but it is typically under by about 100-150º. It's a mild day and I built a partial fire this morning. Currently, the Condar is reading 225º with the fire in the coaling stage. The Auber is reading 349º. SST is 380º.

 

[Tron]

Re digital probe wiring. Yes, it is visually messier. I have the Auber down low to minimize visual impact. My wife was dubious at first

Do you mind sharing a picture or two? I was thinking of turning the pipe backwards so the probe comes out the back and out of view, and route the cable down along the pipe in a small metal sleeve to protect it from the heat. But either way, my wife was not impressed...

 

[begreen]

Do you mind sharing a picture or two? I was thinking of turning the pipe backwards so the probe comes out the back and out of view, and route the cable down along the pipe in a small metal sleeve to protect it from the heat. But either way, my wife was not impressed...

Our probe is on the back of the stove pipe. The Condar is on the front.

 

[Highbeam]

Our probe is on the back of the stove pipe. The Condar is on the front.

I'd like to see a pic too if you don't mind. The wire looks like it will stick horizontal before you can bend it down against the flue. Also about height above the stove top, this has a big bearing on surface temperature of single wall so I would think that flue temps are much different with height but maybe not.

Is there a recommended height for the auber probe that is different than the recommended height for the condar?

Would you recommend the extra long probe wire to get the display a little farther away from the stove? The power cord is only 3 feet long.

You can't really turn the double wall pipe around since there is a big ugly overlap seam that usually goes in the rear.

 

[Tron]

You can't really turn the double wall pipe around since there is a big ugly overlap seam that usually goes in the rear.

Riiiight, totally forgot about that one...

 

[cabinwarmer]

Begreen, how long does it typically take for the Condar to catch up temp wise? Your example above shows 125 behind the digital. I can see why that could be an issue. Is it just minutes?

Dave

 

[Highbeam]

I ordered one. Merry Christmas to me!

 

[begreen]

Begreen, how long does it typically take for the Condar to catch up temp wise? Your example above shows 125 behind the digital. I can see why that could be an issue. Is it just minutes?

Dave

Look at the "starting a fire" thread up in the stickies section.

 

[begreen]

I'd like to see a pic too if you don't mind. The wire looks like it will stick horizontal before you can bend it down against the flue. Also about height above the stove top, this has a big bearing on surface temperature of single wall so I would think that flue temps are much different with height but maybe not.

Is there a recommended height for the auber probe that is different than the recommended height for the condar?

Would you recommend the extra long probe wire to get the display a little farther away from the stove? The power cord is only 3 feet long

I have the probe about 22". It's about 1.5" above the Condar. You don't see the probe cable at all from the front. The electronics stay cool. the T6 does not radiate strongly from the side. I just took an IR temp reading on the surface of the Auber. It is 82º with a flue temp of 635º.

Sorry, the lighting and the phone flash are casting shadows. There is only one wire heading behind the stove for the probe. The rest is shadows.

 

[cabinwarmer]

Begreen, in the sticky thread "starting a fire" it appears the analog Condar never really catches up to the digital reading. Is this true? Or is the Condar just not generally calibrated correctly?

Thanks, Dave

 

[begreen]

True. The Condar is about 10 yrs old so maybe it is at end of life? I won't be buying another to find out, but I can try recalibrating it now that I have a reference. That will not speed up its response time.

 

[ckr74]

Here'a my setup. I used pid controllers so I could panel mount. One is for the stove top and one is the flue probe. All you can see is just the cord for the 120v source.

 

[begreen]

Here'a my setup. I used pid controllers so I could panel mount. One is for the stove top and one is the flue probe. All you can see is just the cord for the 120v source.

Nice and neat.

 

[ckr74]

I forgot to add that the ash pan is removed and I made a custom panel that fit into the hole. Everything is reversible and no extra holes were drilled in the stove. I'm using the cheap pid controllers found on E-bay. The controllers are about $25.00 each.

 

[Highbeam]

I expect or guess that my analog condar is actually reading higher than it should. Like all of these condar meters, the user is supposed to calibrate them by adjusting the nut to make sure they indicate room temperature when cold. This assumes that the bimetallic spring is still working right.

I don’t see how “hours” of life is an indicator of life expectancy for this type of meter though. Perhaps cycles is more correct.

We’ll see.

 

[cabinwarmer]

Very sharp indeed. I think I may start a new thread to continue to get ideas and pics from everyone. I think we all could benefit as equipment starts to get older and need updates.

 

[begreen]

I don’t see how “hours” of life is an indicator of life expectancy for this type of meter though. Perhaps cycles is more correct.

Could be. I seem to recall that forays over 1000º may affect the lifespan too. Yet mysteriously, our old Sandhill stovetop thermometer has stayed relatively accurate over 40 years and it has definitely seen some overfire temps in the early days.

 

[cabinwarmer]

Now you need a monitor to monitor the monitor....

 

[begreen]

Now you need a monitor to monitor the monitor....

Fortunately, my eye is still pretty accurate.

 

[Gearhead660]

I ordered one. Merry Christmas to me!

This thread was a reminder to get one also. Ordered!

 

[Tron]

I expect or guess that my analog condar is actually reading higher than it should. Like all of these condar meters, the user is supposed to calibrate them by adjusting the nut to make sure they indicate room temperature when cold. This assumes that the bimetallic spring is still working right.

I don’t see how “hours” of life is an indicator of life expectancy for this type of meter though. Perhaps cycles is more correct.

I think it's neither, it's just that those bimetallic thermometers are not very accurate:
- my condar is 1 month old and has seen only a dozen or so fires
- when cold, the needle is at room temperature (well, as good as one can identify it, on the lower boundary of the yellow area)
- when I measured with my BBQ probe and measured 320F, the condar had been reading 200F all day long, so it doesn't "catch up"

 

[Highbeam]

I think it's neither, it's just that those bimetallic thermometers are not very accurate:
- my condar is 1 month old and has seen only a dozen or so fires
- when cold, the needle is at room temperature (well, as good as one can identify it, on the lower boundary of the yellow area)
- when I measured with my BBQ probe and measured 320F, the condar had been reading 200F all day long, so it doesn't "catch up"

Or is your BBQ probe just junk? See the problem? I’m hoping a reasonably “scientific” electronic probe thermocouple can be trusted to verify the others.

 

[cabinwarmer]

Yes, thus the issue and the original reason for my post. If there was a digital the ran on a long lasting small battery.....I would buy it in an instant.

 

[Highbeam]

Yes, thus the issue and the original reason for my post. If there was a digital the ran on a long lasting small battery.....I would buy it in an instant.

The auber200 that I just bought uses a wall wart to covert 120 AC to 12vDC. The actual product description says it can also be powered by a car battery. Just needs 12 volts so if you want to rig up a couple of old 6 volt flashlight batteries or whatever to get 12 volts then you’re good to go.