Installing an Jotul F500 Oslo

[bunfoolio]

I have the Oslo In a corner install and only use the front door. Work fine with no problems

I do not use the side load due to the clearance issue. Get the stove it looks and a works great.

 

[ntomsw]

This is what the manual says:
View attachment 161143

Wall shield info:
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/articles/stove_wall_clear

Ok, so by reading the article, I can put something right over the brick with spacers, to get more clearance? But I thought I asked that a few posts ago and the answer was no.

 

[ntomsw]

I have the Oslo In a corner install and only use the front door. Work fine with no problems

I do not use the side load due to the clearance issue. Get the stove it looks and a works great.

Any photos by any chance?

 

[bunfoolio]

Any photos by any chance?

About 19in to the window. I do have a 1in air space behind the brick as a heat shield. Stove works fine without the side load. THe only issue you will have is that ash tends to fall out the front when putting wood in.

Victorian stove did the install. They are out of the NH.

 

[xman23]

I just took a look at the manual. Correct me if I missed it, but the front door requirement is 18 inches of non combustible hearth. So no other requirement for the front door? But the side door needs 36" to combustible wall. And in a corner install you can't use it. I have a theory this number could come from a standard accessibility to the equipment. Many codes require 3' clearance to access. Other than that it still makes no sense to me.

 

[branchburner]

If you are going to end up front-loading a Jotul and giving up on side loading, you might consider the F600... you can load that stove N/S w/ 16" wood, as well as E/W w/ 24" wood.

I agree w/ you on the good looks of the Jotul F series... to my eye, it is between them and VC (and my Harman Oakwood) for a classy looking hunk of cast iron.

 

[ntomsw]

What does everyone recommend for a liner? I have someone coming over in the next couple days to give me an estimate on making chimney a couple layers taller, and installing a liner.

 

[ntomsw]

 

[ntomsw]

Got the stove. We went with brown majolica. Love the color. What a process getting that into the house. We did it though by ourselves with no issues.

Chimney guy is coming this week or next, to raise chimney 2 feet, put a 6" insulated SS liner in it, put a new custom cap on top of chimney, and connect up stove.

Then I just need to figure out what to do for 18" of hearth pad in front. I might make something out of cement board and brick veneer (?). Just not sure how to do it. Don't want it too wide, otherwise you'll trip over it when coming through that doorway. We shall see.

I put the bottom heat shield on, and also bought the rear heat shield as well. Was told by stove shop who measured hearth, and chimney guy, that double wall pipe wasn't necessary, so I bought a new single wall pipe instead. Going to be a short connection though, because this stove is probably at least 4" taller. Maybe more.

 

[webby3650]

Thats a beautiful stove! I've had a few Oslos over the years, it's a good heater!
You don't need that bottom heat shield. So if you really don't like the way it looks you can skip it and all the dust it's going to collect..

 

[Simonkenton]

Good looking install, very good.
I am getting my new Oslo installed next month.

 

[ntomsw]

Are there any guides on how to connect stove to the chimney?

Since this new stove is probably 3-4" taller than our old Resolute stove, it's much closer to the thimble, than the old one. So the pipe won't need to be nearly as long. And, as you can see in the photo, the stove and thimble are offset, so it's not a straight shot.

I'm trying to connect it, but nothing I am doing seems to be working. Any ideas?


Chimney work is all done, insulated liner is all installed, etc. Now I just need to connect the stove, to get it up and running.

 

[ntomsw]

Nothing?

 

[firefighterjake]

Are the clearances enough so that you can switch the stove's flue outlet from going straight up to going out the back? Pretty sure the Oslo is designed so that it can either go straight up or straight out . . . if you go straight out it appears as though you might be able to make the connection.

 

[ntomsw]

Not enough room. See the photos a few posts back.

 

[revdocjim]

How many inches of offset between the pipe coming out the top of the stove and the hole in the wall? Last fall we installed a Napoleon 1400 in our home and it required an offset that looks slightly larger than yours. Here's a photo.


And congratulations on your F500. A couple months ago we installed the same stove in our cabin where our son is living with his wife. Fortunately it was not in a corner so we didn't have to deal with the issues you are facing. I think you already ruled it out earlier in this thread, but are you sure you don't want to turn the stove 45 degrees. It would certainly make matters much simpler.
Our F500 went in like this.

 

[ntomsw]

Not interested in turning stove. It would make connection easier, but then would look extremely funny on hearth.

And yes, your first photo is EXACTLY the connection I need! Not as much as an offset like you said, but exactly what I need done to mine. I just don't know how to do it. Haha. I need like a short straight pipe coming up and out of stove, and than the offset, and then a pipe going right into chimney/liner.

Does that pipe need to be a certain length, or certain offsets, etc to be considered OK? Or as long as the pipe goes into chimney it's ok? Or can it only have so many hard bends, etc? If that makes sense.

I'll post another photo in a little while.

 

[ntomsw]

What kind of pipe are you using there?

 

[revdocjim]

I don't know anything about U.S. regulations so can't help you there. My pipe is single wall coming out of the stove and then the fatter stuff where the offset and 90 are is class A. Everything after that going thru the wall and then outside is class A.

I know the idea of turning the stove would be a big change, but my initial thought was that if you added to the brickwork on the floor, essentially filling out the corner that has been cut off and thus making it a simple rectangle, setting the stove parallel to the stairwell might look natural. But then you have mentioned not wanting to permanently enlarge the footprint of the hearth either... Of course I am only looking at a couple of photos and you live there so my opinions are far less informed than yours.

Anyway, hope it goes well. As for figuring out the stove pipe, I guess that is part of what you get if you pay the big bucks for a professional install, but perhaps if you take pictures to a shop they can give you some help. In our case they did have to move the stove a few inches off center just to get it to line up.

 

[begreen]

It looks doable with a couple elbows and a short straight piece. Easier in single wall for this case and probably with adjustable elbows. One elbow may need to be adjusted to a shallow angle to make the offset.

 

[ntomsw]

I have a straight pipe coming off of stove, but that's where it gets tricky. What can I do now? Obviously straight pipe might need to be cut or whatever, it's just there so I could take photo.

 

[revdocjim]

I'm no expert but it looks like that straight piece is just about the right length. Put a 90 on top of that angled just enough to get it in line with the hole in the wall. Then use a very shallow angled elbow to get perpendicular to the wall and then a short straight piece to the hole.

 

[ntomsw]

How do you guys go about cleaning the inside of your stove of ashes/coals, or out of the ash pan? I'm nervous that the ash pan could get full after a couple of days of straight burning, but how do you get them out of there? You can't open that door obviously, so I am lost on that part.

For inside of the stove, once ashes are all cool, I am using my Ridgid shop vac with fine dust filter etc and it does an amazing job. I clean out the ash tray area as well.

 

[firefighterjake]

1) Wait until stove is relatively cool . . . typically the morning after an overnight burn when there are only small coals.
2) Open ash pan door, pull out ash pan while wearing leather stove gloves . . . dump ash pan outside into covered metal pail.
3) Take small flat stove shovel and shovel out any ashes that have dropped down in the area behind the ash pan.
4) Replace ash pan, close door and start burning again (unless I opt to also clean the glass of the front door and maybe rake some ash into the now empty ash pan . . . making sure to leave an inch or so of of ash in the firebox).

I only use a vacuum . . . and even then a specific ash vacuum . . . after the stove has not been running for several days. Too much of a risk for me that I might suck up an errant coal or ember . . . and I would hate to have my Shop Vac burn up.

 

[claydogg84]

Why exactly are you vacuuming the stove? There is really no reason to do that until the end of the season cleaning.