Installing an Jotul F500 Oslo

[Grisu]

Anyone any ideas on this? Wasn't sure if it was skipped or not.

It would be ok if she has the lock kit and uses the front door for loading or the wall is made from non-combustible materials. However, it is more likely that everyone involved just missed it. (Except for jotul8e2 but his post got overlooked: https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/shes-here-yet-another-oslo-install.139631/#post-1876537)

 

[ntomsw]

It would be ok if she has the lock kit and uses the front door for loading or the wall is made from non-combustible materials. However, it is more likely that everyone involved just missed it. (Except for jotul8e2 but his post got overlooked: https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/shes-here-yet-another-oslo-install.139631/#post-1876537)

It seems that this stove would be 100% good to go, if I did NOT use the side door. Correct? (Obviously extending hearth our front etc)

it looks like walls are drywall. Not sure how they could possibly be non combustible.

 

[ntomsw]

Even if front loading only, it would appear that there isn't 36" of clearance though on the sides. Or is that 36" only when you are using side door? (Sorry a lot of info to digest here)

 

[rsw49]

Nice install in the thread. One poster asks:

"I assume you will be front loading? Let us know how that works out."

And that is never answered throughout the thread. The stove owner also states " all clearances are exceeded". If you take into consideration the Jotul prohibition against using the side door in corner installs they were not. It did pass the inspection though. I don't know how it would fly if an improper install passes inspection and it were ever to be questioned later. As far as I read it is completely against Jotul installation requirements. If an installer wants to sign it off anyway I guess it is their business. The stove will work fine at any rate.

 

[Grisu]

It seems that this stove would be 100% good to go, if I did NOT use the side door. Correct? (Obviously extending hearth our front etc)

Yes, that is correct but you should have the side door locked with Jotul's kit to pass inspection. However, loading the F500 from the front is a major inconvenience. I would really think hard about buying another stove then. Did you at least take a look at some of the other options I posted?

Or is that 36" only when you are using side door?

Only when loading from the side. If you lock the side door the corner clearances I posted of 9" or 6" from the back corner of the stove to the walls go into effect.

Did you contact your home insurance yet? You don't need to tell them specifics but you will need to know what installation requirements they have.

 

[rsw49]

I sympathize with you. Trying to understand these manuals can give you a headache. There are more knowledgeable people than I on here but I believe the 36 inch clearance to combustibles is if the side door is used in a parallel to the wall installation. In the corner install diagrams they have back corner clearance to unprotected surfaces down to 9 inches I believe. So no 36 inches needed in that case. Confusing at times.

 

[ntomsw]

Yes, that is correct but you should have the side door locked with Jotul's kit to pass inspection. However, loading the F500 from the front is a major inconvenience. I would really think hard about buying another stove then. Did you at least take a look at some of the other options I posted?


Did you contact your home insurance yet? You don't need to tell them specifics but you will need to know what installation requirements they have.

I have not contacted home insurance yet. I wasn't planning on it as of yet. If there was never a stove there then I would. But there's been a stove there all along, and they knew that when we opened the policy last year. Their clearances could be even more extreme. When I get around to it, if the inspector and shop sign off on it, I'll call them last. I was going to talk to Jotul (hopefully) first, and go to the stove shop with my photos and measurements and have them check everything second. And then if I need to call the insurance I will.

Wasn't really interested in those stoves. Sounds crazy I'm sure, but a stove has to look right to me. I don't want an ugly stove in my home for the next 30 years. It has to be something that is going to work good, and look good, if I am going to buy it. Those couple stoves you listed I'm not really liking.

 

[Grisu]

Their clearances could be even more extreme. When I get around to it, if the inspector and shop sign off on it, I'll call them last.

That's a risky plan. They may just determine that the stove is not installed properly and drop you. And you may have then trouble finding a new one which will not require changes to the install.

 

[ntomsw]

That's a risky plan. They may just determine that the stove is not installed properly and drop you. And you may have then trouble finding a new one which will not require changes to the install.

If the shop signs off on it, and the side door isn't being utilized, or even if there is changes that could be made and the side door can be utilized, I'm not sure what they could possibly drop me for.

Is it typical to call an insurance company after a stove is replaced? Or before? If a shop signs off on it, an inspector signs off on it, why would the insurance even have to be notified? Serous question.

 

[claydogg84]

If the shop signs off on it, and the side door isn't being utilized, or even if there is changes that could be made and the side door can be utilized, I'm not sure what they could possibly drop me for.

Is it typical to call an insurance company after a stove is replaced? Or before? If a shop signs off on it, an inspector signs off on it, why would the insurance even have to be notified? Serous question.

When I installed my Oslo, I called after the fact and told my insurance I had installed a wood stove in my existing fireplace. The lady said ok, no problem and told me how much my policy was going to increase. I believe it was around $20/year more. They didn't come look at it, ask who installed it, or ask if it was inspected by the town.

 

[begreen]

Insurance company rules vary from company to company. What one requires another may not. When in doubt, ask.

 

[Grisu]

Insurance companies are notoriously unpredictable. We had members here who burned wood for years and suddenly got the request to remove the stove or they would be dropped. Others had suddenly their insurance agent showing up for an inspection. The risk of not telling them is that if any fire happens (and it may not have had anything to do with side loading) they could refuse to pay your claim.

As said, you can lock the side door and load through the front and you won't have problems with Jotul's install requirements. It is just that the F500 is not really made for front loading. Now, if it is the only stove you like you may have to live with that drawback.

 

[begreen]

If it is any solace, I went down this road with our corner install in 2008. I really wanted the Oslo and tried hard to make it work in spite of common sense and good advice saying I would be unhappy with front loading the stove. Left-side loading was not an option. Then I tried very hard to make a Quad Isle Royale work which IMO is a very good looking stove. But that would have required wall shielding and I had a left side window to contend with. The Jotul F45/50/55 were not on the market yet, but PE had just come out with the Alderlea series that would fit without much compromise. It wasn't perfect, no enameling on them at first and I really liked the Jotul blue-black enamel. Still, I kept an open mind and after a long talk and several emails with Tom Oyen up in Bellingham I decided to try the T6. The F400 was out and replaced with the T6 in the same day. The difference was immediately apparent and delightful. At first the stove seemed visually a bit large for our space but we have since grown to like it, a lot. Sometimes compromise is a good thing. (Note that the hearth does extend a full 17" in front of the stove door. The hearth rug is more for the cat which lives in front of the stove when it is going.)

 

[stovelark]

Guys- I've ran into this install so many times- from the pictures, an Oslo is a no-go. You do not have the required side wall clearance to operate the side door. If you want an Oslo, you will need to lock that side door, defeating a prime reason for having this stove. I am the last one to try and tell people what to do, but in your scenario, we have turned down sales for the indignant customer who will "Install it anyway, no matter what you say or the manual, its my house." They are correct too, it is their house. I try to fall on the safety side, not knowingly let someone do something they should. Jotul's number is still the same, you can use 800 instead of the area code. They are going to tell you the same thing though, its in black and white. There are too many nice stoves out there that will do the job greatly for you, rather than risk injury to anyone. But Jotul's answer and the store I work at is its just not worth the risk. I also agree with the crowd here, front loading an Oslo would be no fun and would lead to frustration. Good luck with it, Jotuls are great stoves, but so are many others.

 

[ntomsw]

If it is any solace, I went down this road with our corner install in 2008. I really wanted the Oslo and tried hard to make it work in spite of common sense and good advice saying I would be unhappy with front loading the stove. Left-side loading was not an option. Then I tried very hard to make a Quad Isle Royale work which IMO is a very good looking stove. But that would have required wall shielding and I had a left side window to contend with. The Jotul F45/50/55 were not on the market yet, but PE had just come out with the Alderlea series that would fit without much compromise. It wasn't perfect, no enameling on them at first and I really liked the Jotul blue-black enamel. Still, I kept an open mind and after a long talk and several emails with Tom Oyen up in Bellingham I decided to try the T6. The F400 was out and replaced with the T6 in the same day. The difference was immediately apparent and delightful. At first the stove seemed visually a bit large for our space but we have since grown to like it, a lot. Sometimes compromise is a good thing. (Note that the hearth does extend a full 17" in front of the stove door. The hearth rug is more for the cat which lives in front of the stove when it is going.)

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Those clearances look even tighter than mine though. What do you have on the walls? Just drywall? That's the part I don't understand. A stove right up against a regular old wall is fine, but you need 36" just to open a door for 5 seconds to load wood. HAHA

 

[begreen]

Yes just drywall. Stove designs vary a lot and thus do their clearance requirements. The Alderlea is a close clearance convective stove. The cast iron is a jacket with an air gap between it and the firebox. That dramatically reduces clearance requirements though for this installation the actual corner clearance requirements are exceeded. Note that this is a front load only stove so side clearances are naturally going to be closer. The Castine got the side walls fairly hot, around 150-160F if it had been running hot for a long time, like during cold weather. With the T6 the walls are now notably cooler.

FWIW, going from the radiant Castine to the convective Alderlea turned out to be a real plus for whole house heating. There is very little room temperature swing with the Alderlea and the mass of the stove release heat for quite a while after the fire has died down.

 

[ntomsw]

Guys- I've ran into this install so many times- from the pictures, an Oslo is a no-go. You do not have the required side wall clearance to operate the side door. If you want an Oslo, you will need to lock that side door, defeating a prime reason for having this stove. I am the last one to try and tell people what to do, but in your scenario, we have turned down sales for the indignant customer who will "Install it anyway, no matter what you say or the manual, its my house." They are correct too, it is their house. I try to fall on the safety side, not knowingly let someone do something they should. Jotul's number is still the same, you can use 800 instead of the area code. They are going to tell you the same thing though, its in black and white. There are too many nice stoves out there that will do the job greatly for you, rather than risk injury to anyone. But Jotul's answer and the store I work at is its just not worth the risk. I also agree with the crowd here, front loading an Oslo would be no fun and would lead to frustration. Good luck with it, Jotuls are great stoves, but so are many others.

Obviously you and I am sure many others already know this. But, this is Jotul's logic.

You can have that stove as a FRONT LOAD stove only in a corner install, if you so choose, and the stove can be pretty much right up against the walls. I believe anywhere from 6-9" away. And there is ZERO issues at all with heat, etc. But, if you then want to use the side load door in a corner install, you then all of a sudden need 36" of clearance. The door is literally open for all of what, 5 seconds at a time to load wood, and you now need 3 feet of clearance? Is there more heat coming out of the door while opened, compared to it not being opened? Of course. Not a whole lot, but obviously some. Does that mean you now need 3 feet of clearance from that side door? I'm not so sure I agree with that. As long as the side door can swing ALL THE WAY open, and you can load wood safely, there should be ZERO issues at all with using that side door. I think Jotul went full retard on covering their asses.

I am not saying that's what I am going to do, I was just pointing out the obvious. Obviously.

 

[ntomsw]

Yes just drywall. Stove designs vary a lot and thus do their clearance requirements. The Alderlea is a close clearance convective stove. The cast iron is a jacket with an air gap between it and the firebox. That dramatically reduces clearance requirements though for this installation the actual corner clearance requirements are exceeded. Note that this is a front load only stove.

I'm just surprised it can be that close to the drywall. THAT would make me more nervous, then not having quite 36" of clearance for a side loading door. Does it ever get hot? The drywall?

 

[begreen]

Your experience is with a radiant stove. The Castine (also a radiant stove) got the side walls fairly hot, around 150 -160F if it had been running hot for a long time, like during cold weather. This was in spite of the clearance for the F400 being exceeded by a couple inches. With the T6 the walls are now notably cooler even though it only exceeds the clearance by an inch. They read about 130-140F typically.

(PS: 16-18" at the rear opening of the door is not quite 36")

 

[ntomsw]

Your experience is with a radiant stove. The Castine (also a radiant stove) got the side walls fairly hot, around 150 -160F if it had been running hot for a long time, like during cold weather. This was in spite of the clearance for the F400 being exceeded by a couple inches. With the T6 the walls are now notably cooler even though it only exceeds the clearance by an inch. They read about 130-140F typically.

(PS: 16-18" at the rear opening of the door is not quite 36")

Gotcha.

Still enough room for the door to open all the way around though.
Not sure what I will do yet. Most likely use the stove as a front loader for now, that way I have the stove we want. Because down the road I can always make changes to my hearth to make it work. I will agree to disagree with a few people though on here that you NEED 36" for that door to be open to load wood for all of a few seconds. makes no sense, and they went to the extreme it seems.

 

[Simonkenton]

I am about to put an Oslo into the right corner of the living room of my new log cabin. Jotul obviously has got some chicken lawyers with that 36 inch rule on the left side, and I like to break stupid rules.

 

[begreen]

36" is to the nearest combustible. If the left side-wall was changed to be an NFPA ventilated wall then I think it is a pretty safe install, even if the back of the door opening is only 16-17" away from the protected wall. An NFPA ventilated wall merits a 66% clearance reduction or 12".

This is not just Jotul. The 36" clearance from combustibles applies to front or side doors of all stoves.

 

[ntomsw]

36" is to the nearest combustible. If the left side-wall was changed to be an NFPA ventilated wall then I think it is a pretty safe install, even if the back of the door opening is only 16-17" away from the protected wall. An NFPA ventilated wall merits a 66% clearance reduction or 12".

Simonkenton, this is not just Jotul. The 36" clearance from combustibles applies to front or side doors to all stoves.

How do I do that again? I'm sure it was covered but now I forget.

I forgot, but Jotul did call me back today. A sales rep of 25 years though, not their tech department. He said 36" period, and they aren't allowed to budge on that 1 way or another whether they think it's OK or not. I got the feeling that he wanted to say, "yeah it's fine", but obviously he isn't going to say that.

He said that whatever their dealers wanted to do, is up to them. But as far as hearing anything else from Jotul it won't happen. The manual says 36" and that's it.

 

[claydogg84]

Try it as a front loader and see how it goes. The key is to keep the wood stacked up away from the window. If you load against the window (as I normally do), you'll end up with a huge ash spill out in the morning. My gut feeling is that you'll end up side loading anyways. Enjoy the Oslo, it's a great stove.

 

[begreen]

This is what the manual says:


Wall shield info:
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/articles/stove_wall_clear