This probably won't help (but now it gives you something else to covet) but the advice I am following is to tune the saw to 13,200 for the first 5-10 tanks, then up to 13,800. I intend to leave mine there but after about 5 gallons of fuel, you can go up to the max RPM's.
I NEED a new saw!! (Update)
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Congrats on the new saw!
Run it like you stole it, the rings will seat better and much faster. Just no extended no load WOT.
Run it like you stole it, the rings will seat better and much faster. Just no extended no load WOT.
I'm not a mechanic, but I've always been advised to break in a new engine slowly. This would mean lower sustained RPMs for whatever running time is recommended and no overheating. If this is incorrect, someone owes me a good explanation why I've been doing it all wrong. Even then, I think I'll take Wendell's advise when I get my new 346 (Ha, ha... yeah, like that'll be happening any time soon). %-P
I think the manual for most saws (at least my 260) says run the saw as normal, just no WOT under no load.
HittinSteel said:
This is exactly what the manual led me to believe. One part says "Running In"-avoid running at a too high speed for extended periods during the first 10 hours. Then under the "Basic cutting technique" section it says verbatum "Always use full throttle when cutting!" In fact it is the very first thing in the list.
That is the only two places the manual talks about throttle levels.
Im cornfused
mrfjsf said:
I don't know... maybe they're just trying to sell us new saws when the old ones crap? :lol:
I think the point about always cutting at full throttle is that the saw needs to run at high chain speeds to cut effectively and with max HP. Doesn't mean you have to run it for a long time periods in the beginning. Most stuff I've read pertains to letting the saw cool and then starting another session. Some guys recommend extensive periods of idling between cuts. Wendell's info seem to be useful, can't say the saw won't cut when set for a slightly lower top RPM. I wouldn't know how to do that accurately since I don't own a tach.
I really don't think you did anything to your new saw from the sounds of it, but I'd at least ask the chainsaw dudes over on AS and form a consensus on the subject before you go full-bore cutting with it. Then again, it's your machine, didn't mean to sound preachy. ;-)
Battenkiller said:
By all means I do appreciate all info. I want to break her in the right way. Perhaps I'll take it easy on her for the next few tanks. I have about a tank and a half through it already. Ill give it til about 8 or 10 tanks before I really crank on it.
The one good thing about a used saw (besides the price) is that you don't have to worry about any of this. Either someone broke it in right or they didn't. No way to really tell AFAIK, so I'll just assume mine was babied for months in the beginning. It seems to have good compression and runs good and strong. If it shows signs of dying a premature death, I can sell it on Ebay for more than I paid for it. I just bid on a non-running parts 357XP with only 90 pounds compression. Thought it'd be handy to have for $50 or so. It went for $255... $30 more than I paid for a good working one I found on CL.
The gurus on AS will give you the same advice I did......that's where it came from and the manual !
HittinSteel said:
You are correct my good man! Did a search over there, found that most all say to just use it, but no WOT under no load. The saw will be completely broke-in after 5-10 tanks.
Thanks for the help guys!
I wouldn't necessarily do this since your limiter caps may be set a bit different than mine but what I found is that with my saw leaned all the way (clockwise), I am at 13,200 which is a very safe speed for break in. I also had the chance to talk to a 23 year Jonsered mechanic and he said a saw isn't broken in until you've run 5 gallons through it.
I would not try to run your saw less than full throttle when cutting. I would think your dealer would have a tach and could set it for you for your peace of mind.
I would not try to run your saw less than full throttle when cutting. I would think your dealer would have a tach and could set it for you for your peace of mind.
wendell said:
He said to bring it back after about 10-15 hrs of cut time and he would tune it. It seems to be running a tad rich as it is. It 4 strokes a good bit out of the cut and once in a while I'll get it in the cut, depends on the wood im cutting. Im gonna take it back to them after I get around 10 tanks through it and have him tune it up and then see how she sounds.
I was under the impression that new saws are always set rich, although my 359 is currently set as rich as the tabs will allow and it still tachs over 13500 at WOT. It 4-strokes plenty so I figure it's OK, but it makes we wonder what the RPMs were when I first got it (and had no tach). I should go tach the 455 (which is still pretty new and has factory/dealer carb settings) and see.
DiscoInferno said:
It depends on the saw and the dealer. To meet government emission standards, many saws have been shipped lean from the factory. Some dealers don't adjust them before giving them to the customer, which is irresponsible in my book.
mrfjsf said:
Its my understanding is that the card is designed to work at idle and WOT and running it a partial throttle may through the fuel mix way off. I believe the "running for extended times" is the point. If you are blocking a big log give it some time to cool down between cuts. Or switch from blocking to limbing and back again.
Billy
Cowboy Billy said:
That's what I thought, but then I called master chainsaw carver Brian Ruth last night about the Redmax carving saw he sells. During the conversation (he's a very helpful and friendly fellow) I asked about that very issue. He said it is somewhat saw dependent, and he doesn't like the small Stihls for carving for that exact reason. They only run well at idle or full out. Carvers need reasonable power at less than full throttle, especially when detailing with the tip of a dime bar. You'll blow your saw up carving at WOT since the bar is never buried in the wood at all, just the tip.
BTW, I think I'm buying one of his saws. I've been interested in carving for awhile now. He is the only U.S. source for the Redmax G3200 CV (which he helped design), so I will be a pretty lucky guy to own one. FWIW, Brian said to just run the saw as well, the only break in he does is to run a full tank at idle, blipping the throttle every now and then to keep it from loading up. He uses Amsoil at 80:1, but says you can run it at 100:1 with no ill effects using the Amsoil, for a basically smoke-free saw.
I needed a new saw also, found this thread on the two manufactures I was considering. Great amount of info! Thanks for all that contributed. So, I bought a husky 346xp with a pro 18" bar, based on comments on this thread, price, light weight, did need more than a 50cc saw and what I thought was a two year warranty. btw, husky has just changed the warranty on the XP to 6 months. went through two tanks of fuel...it cuts fast! blows away my 10 year old 45cc timberman.
ash burn said:
News to me on the warranty.......it is 6 months for professional use I know, but the consumer should still be 2 years.
just called the dealer about the warranty, he told me 6 months at the time of purchase, which was yesterday. you are correct, 6 mo commercial, 2 yr consumer.
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