How to burn wood pellets in 2006 Auburn corn burner

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Well, I am even worse, didn't even use any sealant when I replaced my combustion fan last time. Just left the fiber filter and tightened it back down and checked for leaks.......nothing. So didn't worry about it after that.
 
Holy creosote Batman! Blech!

How to burn wood pellets in 2006 Auburn corn burner How to burn wood pellets in 2006 Auburn corn burner
 
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The pictures don't do this built up crud justice. I've already scraped up a cup of this stuff just from the opening, goodness knows how much is back up in there! This might be why nothing blows loose when I use the leaf blower. It's all stuck. :eek:
 
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RTV= Room temperature vulcanizing silicone. It comes in a tube and is found at almost every hardware store, auto parts store, HomeDepot, etc. The red variety is good for high temperatures.

RTV.jpg
 
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RTV= Room temperature vulcanizing silicone. It comes in a tube and is found at almost every hardware store, auto parts store, HomeDepot, etc. The red variety is good for high temperatures.

View attachment 270198
Dont silicone the fan back in. Next time u need to remove it you will destroy it. Just use whats left of your gasket for now.
 
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Guess I should have sent a picture to them as well (of my corroded clean out transition Tee) but I just ordered a new one from Venting Pipe.com. Wasn't all the expensive, like 50 bucks. Never occurred to me that it might be warranted. Oh well, next time it rusts out I will, if I'm not rusted out myself..... :eek:
They marketed the PelletVent Pro for corn back when everybody was switching in 08-09. I had thrown that piece in the trash then trash day thought I need a picture of that and see what happens. I just sent a nice email with everything I liked about it like easy sealing oring joints with no silicone then asked if this was normal? They wrote back with a explanation of why and set a cap and 2’ piece. Also sent an outside air kit by mistake also‍. Did not ask for age or receipt or anything. I do love this pipe. Twist lock and go. No chasing Leaks. As you know. Corn vent has to b 100% sealed. Not a pleasant smell.
 
yeah that’s quite a mess! And quite a a mass. That would hinder your amount of air movement and slow down the blower itself trying to turn the extra mass
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I was about to ask you if you recommended a new one or trying to clean this one (which looks newer) but I just saw that a new one is about $100! This "deal" of a stove is nickel and diming me to death as it is. Guess I'm going to try to clean this one.
 
Definitely clean it. I'm tighter than bark on a tree and elbow grease is cheaper ;) At most i might consider a new fan blade
 
Definitely clean it. I'm tighter than bark on a tree and elbow grease is cheaper ;) At most i might consider a new fan blade
That's what I was hoping you'd say. I'm attempting to take the old blade off right now. What a grungy mess. Same blades or "windier" ones like the dude on youtube video recommends?
 
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Permatex High Temperature Red RTV (room temperature vulcanizing) available at any auto parts store or Wally World or ACE hardware. Comes in a tube. I put a bead around the flange of the fan housing and let it set up for a half hour and the assemble the fan into the plenum housing and secure it with the hex nuts. You might have screws on yours. I do put fender washers under each screw / nut to spread the clamping load out and insure there are no leaks.
 
Dont silicone the fan back in. Next time u need to remove it you will destroy it. Just use whats left of your gasket for now.
I disagree with that. The trick is, if you will call it that is to apply a bead of red RTV AND THEN LET IT SIT FOR A HALF HOIUR TO AN HOUR AND ALLOW IT TO VULCANIZE AND THEN REASSEMBLE IT. That way the RTV don't stick to the flange and makes taking it apart down the road a snap. ... and you will take it apart again, numerous times.
 
If you put a light coating of veg. Oil on one of the flanges. And a bead on the other and tighten it down it will not stick to the oiled side
 
If you are burning corn or a corn/pellet mix like I do, the corn must be below 15% RM, no exceptions or it will cause carbon / creosote buildup. As the kernels carmelize in the heat of combustion, they give off moisture so it has to be dry shelled corn. The corn I burn is way under 15%, in fact the corn I run is at 10%RM or less and the drier it is, the hotter in burns.

if you get your corn from the local elevator, it will be 15% RM or less. Reason is, corn over 15% RM in storage will mold so the elevator dries it down to 15 for storage (and charges the grower for the fuel to dry it down). That is called docking. When a grower delivers corn to the elevator, the elevator probes the load for RM before it's even off loaded. I get my corn from a guy down the road with his own processing plant and the corn I get is exceptionally dry and it's perfectly clean too. No junk in it, just 100% popcorn fart dry corn.

You never want to buy corn direct from a farmer out of the field because chances are it's way above 15%, plus it's dirty. I've been running hybrid field corn for years and I've never had it come off at 15 or less. It's usually around 20, but I've seen it come off at 30 before. Elevator corn will be magnetically cleaned too. Combine parts can get mixed in the corn as well as nuts and bolts and you don't want your feed auger finding that stuff. Finally, elevator corn will have earwings in it and they need to be separated out. the corn I get has nothing in it, just corn.

If you want to buy from a farmer, I suggest you invest in a moisture meter that will tell you the RM. I have an expensive Delmhorst meter that cost around 500 bucks but there are cheaper ones on the market, just not quite as accurate as mine is. The one I have is accurate to within 1/10th percent of moisture but I need that, you don't. TSC has inexpensive ones I think.

My burning corn lesson for the week....;lol
 
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If you put a light coating of veg. Oil on one of the flanges. And a bead on the other and tighten it down it will not stick to the oiled side
I'll have to try that myself, thanks Ssyko...
 
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If you are burning corn or a corn/pellet mix like I do, the corn must be below 15% RM, no exceptions or it will cause carbon / creosote buildup. As the kernels carmelize in the heat of combustion, they give off moisture so it has to be dry shelled corn. The corn I burn is way under 15%, in fact the corn I run is at 10%RM or less and the drier it is, the hotter in burns.

if you get your corn from the local elevator, it will be 15% RM or less. Reason is, corn over 15% RM in storage will mold so the elevator dries it down to 15 for storage (and charges the grower for the fuel to dry it down). That is called docking. When a grower delivers corn to the elevator, the elevator probes the load for RM before it's even off loaded. I get my corn from a guy down the road with his own processing plant and the corn I get is exceptionally dry and it's perfectly clean too. No junk in it, just 100% popcorn fart dry corn.

You never want to buy corn direct from a farmer out of the field because chances are it's way above 15%, plus it's dirty. I've been running hybrid field corn for years and I've never had it come off at 15 or less. It's usually around 20, but I've seen it come off at 30 before. Elevator corn will be magnetically cleaned too. Combine parts can get mixed in the corn as well as nuts and bolts and you don't want your feed auger finding that stuff. Finally, elevator corn will have earwings in it and they need to be separated out. the corn I get has nothing in it, just corn.

If you want to buy from a farmer, I suggest you invest in a moisture meter that will tell you the RM. I have an expensive Delmhorst meter that cost around 500 bucks but there are cheaper ones on the market, just not quite as accurate as mine is. The one I have is accurate to within 1/10th percent of moisture but I need that, you don't. TSC has inexpensive ones I think.

My burning corn lesson for the week....;lol
LOL!! Well that solves it. The guy I bought this from says it was his mom's and she didn't want to lug buckets of corn anymore (gettin' too old) and that she bought the corn pretty cheap from a farmer.
 
Yep that explains alot
 
I would go for something like this
Wonder if that would fit my 6039's exhaust plenum? Ssyko, you happen to have the depth dimension of the vanes?
 
Yep that explains alot
Either you are inordinately lucky or you run it hard. wet corn is death to a stove (as evidenced by the blower plenum). I have never ran any above 15%RM, which is the standard dry down for elevator corn and works out to about 56 pounds per bushel.
 
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You know what ticks me off? I told this guy I needed heat for my house, that I needed something that worked, that I was driving all the way from Nebraska in a borrowed pick up, that I didn't have ANY heat and that my husband had passed away last year before we put a furnace in.
So he sold a widow a heater he KNEW had issues and never said jack chit. So much for Midwest honesty.
 
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They have fit quads, breckwell, cab50, enviro’s, englander’s and pelpro’s that i have worked on
 
You know what ticks me off? I told this guy I needed heat for my house, that I needed something that worked, that I was driving all the way from Nebraska in a borrowed pick up, that I didn't have ANY heat and that my husband had passed away last year before we put a furnace in.
So he sold a widow a heater he KNEW had issues and never said jack chit. So much for Midwest honesty.

sadly true, but not just midwestern honesty. That chit happens all the time everywhere. But we will get you up and running with heat. I would use just pellets for now and get the stove burned clean.