How to burn wood pellets in 2006 Auburn corn burner

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Just as a note, the very top most rod is only for cleaning the heat exchanger tubes. Does nothing more than scraps the ash off of them.
 

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ok before i send that order i want to ck one more thing.. did you hook the exhaust blower up to the test cord and run the stove? does the motor sound faster on the test cord or the same as when its plugged into the harness?
 
One thing is hook the 2 wires to the exhaust blower to you test cord and plug into the wall. It will run at full speed. And clear smoke and maybe draw more

Thank you. I tried that, it didn't blow any differently. But that's something I didn't know how to do before, and I do now!
 
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good call gfreek its been a long thread.lol
 
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good call gfreek its been a long thread.lol
Yes it has, I've been following this thread. It's great that you and others are intent on getting this stove up and running.
 
ok before i send that order i want to ck one more thing.. did you hook the exhaust blower up to the test cord and run the stove? does the motor sound faster on the test cord or the same as when its plugged into the harness?
I did. It sounded the same. Maybe a tad slower, if anything.
 
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i did smarten up a wee bit and collected all the pics and put them in a file on my pc so i don't have to keep going back to look :confused:
 
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it not behind the burn pot its the back wall where the ash pan goes, you have to pull the ash pan out of the stove.

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Mine doesnt seem to have one of those. I thought I had looked the inside prettt good and didnt remember anything back there.
 

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good :)
 
;em im not alone on this forum. we have experts on every make and model
 
Take the compliment Ssyko.....he’s very right! ;)
 
Rick? Sidecar? if we get this burning. can we burn the residue out of this stove? I have never dealt with corn residue. but this stove is gonna run one way or another
Ssyko.
First off I would not buy a Conv. fan at this point. That is the least of your worries. There is a major restriction in the stove where there is no access. Between the heat exchanger and the comb. fan.
This is how I think it played out: previous owner ran the stove without proper cleaning until the point that it was so restricted that the vac switch would not close. Then thought must be a bad switch, stove looks clean to me. Replaced the switch and same issue, it would not close. At this point he should have called for service or hopped on this forum for advice. As we know the vac switch is there for a reason. If he would have brushed out the ash traps and sucked the stove out with a leaf blower it would have can back to like new airflow, at that point the blockages would have been just loose fly ash.Instead he jumped the switch, got the unit to fire in a starved for air situation and ran it like that. Burning rich for a extended period of time and turned blocked passages into a hardened mess. Then it got to the point to where it is at now and will not burn do to severe blockages that he pulled it out and unloaded it. If Rx wants to try to salvage it and try to burn it out, I definitely would not suggest doing it in the house. Burning creosote is a stinky mess and if it shuts down and spills smoke in the house or worse it could be bad. I would take it outside and force burn it using the hair dryer to boost airflow to heat it up.
 
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Mine doesnt seem to have one of those. I thought I had looked the inside prettt good and didnt remember anything back there.
The much newer units they put access covers to get to the hidden passages
 
Ssyko.
First off I would not buy a Conv. fan at this point. That is the least of your worries. There is a major restriction in the stove where there is no access. Between the heat exchanger and the comb. fan.
This is how I think it played out: previous owner ran the stove without proper cleaning until the point that it was so restricted that the vac switch would not close. Then thought must be a bad switch, stove looks clean to me. Replaced the switch and same issue, it would not close. At this point he should have called for service or hopped on this forum for advice. As we know the vac switch is there for a reason. If he would have brushed out the ash traps and sucked the stove out with a leaf blower it would have can back to like new airflow, at that point the blockages would have been just loose fly ash.Instead he jumped the switch, got the unit to fire in a starved for air situation and ran it like that. Burning rich for a extended period of time and turned blocked passages into a hardened mess. Then it got to the point to where it is at now and will not burn do to severe blockages that he pulled it out and unloaded it. If Rx wants to try to salvage it and try to burn it out, I definitely would not suggest doing it in the house. Burning creosote is a stinky mess and if it shuts down and spills smoke in the house or worse it could be bad. I would take it outside and force burn it using the hair dryer to boost airflow to heat it up.

i agree 100%, I have a combustion blower i know is much more powerful than the original and she would not need a hair dryer. My concern is weather the stove it is recoverable at all. My thoughts were to get 1 of those creosote logs, break it into chunks that would fit in the pot. All safeties jumped with the blower i have or hair dryer run it to an almost over-fire hand feeding chunks till it opens up or burns out the blockage. Do you think this would work?
 
i agree 100%, I have a combustion blower i know is much more powerful than the original and she would not need a hair dryer. My concern is weather the stove it is recoverable at all. My thoughts were to get 1 of those creosote logs, break it into chunks that would fit in the pot. All safeties jumped with the blower i have or hair dryer run it to an almost over-fire hand feeding chunks till it opens up or burns out the blockage. Do you think this would work?
It would be worth a try. It just worries me doing it inside the house. I would take it outside and let it rip. As we know, the vac switch is designed to shut the stove down prior to it getting to the filling the stove with creosote point. It would be like running a engine 50k mileds until it was tarred up beyond belief then trying to resurect it. Trying to burn it out is the only option, other than that, it would be to scrap it? That is why I suggested not worrying about a squeaky Dist. blower for now
 
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parting it out she could make most of her money back.. but if she's willing to move it outdoors i think its worth a shot at it. yeah we wont worry about motors till we get this thing clean. tape the hairdryer on the intake and turbo burn .lol
 
The pic of creosote dripping out of the pipe is not a good sign. Are the exhaust paths so hidden that there is no way to clean the hardened creosote on this unit ? Agree at this point the idea, if possible, to move it outside and turbo fire it to burn it out.. & is there a chance the creosote can ignite like a chimney fire ?
 
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The pic of creosote dripping out of the pipe is not a good sign. Are the exhaust paths so hidden that there is no way to clean the hardened creosote on this unit ? Agree at this point the idea, if possible, to move it outside and turbo fire it to burn it out.. & is there a chance the creosote can ignite like a chimney fire ?

Early on my pellet burning adventures I ran a Harman P-43 in for a couple of weeks in the fall shoulder season in manual mode with the feed turned down to just below "test". This resulted in a very cool running stove that deposited a significant creosote coating throughout the stove and exhaust pipe. My strategy at the time was to occasionally burn a good hot fire to burn off the accumulated glaze. One evening while doing this my partner said " do you smell something hot" . At the same time I began to notice a rapidly increasing roar that sounded like a train fast approaching. Looking behind the stove I could see that the exhaust pipe was becoming incandescent, first cherry and then dull orange. Long story short, the exhaust pipe did not fail but the ESP over-temped and required a reset once things settle down and I ascertained that the stove was still serviceable. The creosote coating within the stove was rather nicely consumed. I immediately vowed to never allow this situation to happen again. From that time on I've never "choked" the stove down to smoldering fire. It runs in room temperature mode at all times alternating between a hot fire and off when temperatures are too warm for a continuous fire. Stove/chimney fires are way too exciting especially indoors.

YMMV,

Hugh
 
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The pic of creosote dripping out of the pipe is not a good sign. Are the exhaust paths so hidden that there is no way to clean the hardened creosote on this unit ? Agree at this point the idea, if possible, to move it outside and turbo fire it to burn it out.. & is there a chance the creosote can ignite like a chimney fire ?
That is what I am afraid of doing this indoors.
 
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