We have a Hutch rebel double door wood stove and we had to replace the pipe from stove through ceiling and attitude and through roof and we're not sure what to do. My bf, bless his heart, is trying to Frankenstein it by having black 8 in reducer coming out of the stove to 6 in black stove pipe then from the ceiling through attic having a increaser from 6 in black stove pipe connecting to a 8 in double wall stainless 36 in pipe. Someone please help us, he has no idea what hes doing and frankensteining this thing and I don't want our house to burn down. Someone point us in the right direction for safest and most cost efficient solution cuz were down to the wire and these electric heaters are not cutting it and draining our pockets
Help!! Wood burner not ready for weather hitting need lots of advice. Cuz we are clueless
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Pics will help us guide you through. Beware, Class A chimney after the first penetration, although expensive, is absolutely necessary.
If the stove has an 8'' flue, that is the required chimney diameter. It is why the manufacture of the stove chose an 8'' flue.
After we sort out your chimney, we'll sort everything else out.
If the stove has an 8'' flue, that is the required chimney diameter. It is why the manufacture of the stove chose an 8'' flue.
After we sort out your chimney, we'll sort everything else out.
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/hutch-rebel.175965/
I'm guessing this is the stove you mean
Adapting down and then adapting up doesn't sound like a good idea. Don't get me wrong, I've done some Frankensteining in my day, but safety is more my concern now as I'm older and have learned a lot the hard way. Staying warm safely is the most important thing. Insurance is another factor to consider, they don't like Frankenstein or any of his relatives. There seems to be a lot of opportunity here for a problem.
First why the reduction than the increase in pipe size? Sounds like you just need an 8" section of stove pipe and if single wall is safe and will work it's pretty cheap. Above the ceiling and through the attic would need to be class A stainless chimney, not just double wall but the terms get confused many times. Then the class A would continue through the roof at a sufficient height. The class A would need a support box in the ceiling which would space it far enough from combustibles and support the weight of it all. I'm not an professional, some of them will be along soon. I have installed a couple of stoves that is all my qualifications and so far no fires except in the stove.
I'm guessing this is the stove you mean
Adapting down and then adapting up doesn't sound like a good idea. Don't get me wrong, I've done some Frankensteining in my day, but safety is more my concern now as I'm older and have learned a lot the hard way. Staying warm safely is the most important thing. Insurance is another factor to consider, they don't like Frankenstein or any of his relatives. There seems to be a lot of opportunity here for a problem.
First why the reduction than the increase in pipe size? Sounds like you just need an 8" section of stove pipe and if single wall is safe and will work it's pretty cheap. Above the ceiling and through the attic would need to be class A stainless chimney, not just double wall but the terms get confused many times. Then the class A would continue through the roof at a sufficient height. The class A would need a support box in the ceiling which would space it far enough from combustibles and support the weight of it all. I'm not an professional, some of them will be along soon. I have installed a couple of stoves that is all my qualifications and so far no fires except in the stove.
The 8" stovepipe size should be continuous to the 8" chimney connection. Stove pipe can only be used within the room, it can not pass through walls or ceilings. We absolutely need to see pictures of the flue system, from stove up through the attic, and above the roof to assist further. There may be solutions or dangers present that pictures will help illustrate.
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