Hmmm, I don't know. My stove is fairly tight, I believe, but when it's running hot, it makes a pretty big sucking sound. If I listen close, I can hear it from the next room.
Help! Jotul Oslo running hard and fast but damper is all the way down
- Thread starter Jen Eastwood-Fisher
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Sprinter
Minister of Fire
Try taking an incense stick or something like that and poke around the door to see any air draft.
Then you will need one of these installed. It is the last fitting and connects to the stove.But get the gaskets checked and replaced too. Both issues are combining to cause the control problem.
http://www.amazon.com/Simpson-Duravent-8679-Double-Section/dp/B003JV7X02
Try fluffing up the gasket using a pic or something similar till you get a new one.
I have done that with good results.
Can the latch be adjusted?
I have done that with good results.
Can the latch be adjusted?
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All the gaskets on the stove are brand new and professionally installed last thursday (Dec 12!!) The front door has a tight seal, but the side door doesn't. I took a video but it's .mov so I can't load the video to here.
I will ask about getting a pipe damper and also a the thermometers for the top and pipe.
Thanks!
Sounds like the side door gasket install is not right. It could be an undersized gasket was installed. The door needs to seal tightly when latched. How loose is the dollar bill test on the side door. Is there any tension required to pull it out? Is it loose at most all points around the side door? Is the fire now much stronger on the left side of the stove?
Maybe post the video to YouTube and provide a link?
Maybe post the video to YouTube and provide a link?
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I will try to post to youtube. The dollar bill test is loose on most places. The exception being top left corner of the side door. Not much is needed to pull the bill through. I wouldn't say the fire was any stronger to one side.
I have opted not to fire it up today and atleast wait to get the gasket is replaced on that door before firing her up again.
I would get the key damper installed at the same time. It will give you an extra measure of control when the draft is very strong.
aaron1
Member
I don't hear much at all when I close the draft and have both doors closed. You must be getting a ton of air in through the side door. I have uninsulated 30ish feet inside of an exterior chimney. Maybe the $5 bills are thinner than $1 bills. Sorry, bad joke. Sounds like they screwed up the sizing on the gasket, hard to believe!!
Sprinter
Minister of Fire
LOL. Glad you said it first. Maybe it was a bad joke, but I was going to suggest a $10 bill, so I appreciate bad jokes, since I do it all the time.
Seriously, though, Jen the OP is likely going to have to find a way to tame the draft from the 30+ foot flue, but still, I'd want to eliminate any other possibilities first.
Toploader
Burning Hunk
As others have said definitely replace any non-tight gaskets with larger ones, do a smoke test and if everything is tight and it's still running too hot try the key damper.
One other thing to consider, especially because your stove is older like mine, is that it is possible to slide the air control lever too far to the left and if this happens it has the same effect as the air being about half open. This has happened to me and at least one other forum member that I know of. To make sure this isn't your problem, when closing the air down all the way, just gently tap the lever with your finger in small increments until you feel a positive stop. If you push it too hard too fast it might go too far and allow a lot of air in but you won't suspect this as the problem.
One other thing to consider, especially because your stove is older like mine, is that it is possible to slide the air control lever too far to the left and if this happens it has the same effect as the air being about half open. This has happened to me and at least one other forum member that I know of. To make sure this isn't your problem, when closing the air down all the way, just gently tap the lever with your finger in small increments until you feel a positive stop. If you push it too hard too fast it might go too far and allow a lot of air in but you won't suspect this as the problem.
Thanks, that was a really helpful suggestion. I am not sure it's what the problem is but is very good to know. We are still waiting for the stove company to come out and fix the gaskets, but it is Christmas so I guess they are taking some well earned time off.
BTW, with the thermometer talk on this thread, I feel the need to add; Get the one made by condair. They come in a variety of styles, and only cost from $10-20. As opposed to the Made in China Rutland one that doesn't work for chit, and cost the same money. The needle sticks, mostly on the way up, it seems, so it lies. I have seen more than 2 similar reviews online.
I would think about begreen's suggestion about a key damper. I have always had them on my stoves as a second means of draft and burn control. I know many don't feel the need and that's ok, I just like the extra control. in a single wall pipe, the installation is easy....I have mine about 12-18 inches above the top of the stove. just make sure when you drill, you line up and measure where the holes will go or the damper won't swing easily. easy fix if you miss though, just a bolt, washer and nut to plug the hole and drill another.
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