Help...i'm cold and cannot figure out what's wrong w/ this wood stove

[DianeB]

ok, let's say that it should have been placed further from walls, despite the thick hardibacker, my question is would this being too close to walls be WHY the house is not getting warm? Maybe combined w/ air control not being closed after getting fire started as stated above?

The gods in heaven are looking out for you to keep your stove cool. But to be more helpful, I think you have wetter wood than you think and you are expending BTU's trying to dry it out. You might be able to buy a moister meter at a local hardware store. You have to resplit a piece and then check it, very easy to do.

 

[Jags]

Hardibacker is cement, to best of my knowledge...

You are correct, but that doesn't negate the need for the clearance. Heat will transfer through the tiles, through the cement board and directly into the wood studs behind it. Hence clearance to combustibles.

You may be very lucky indeed that you are having trouble getting a hot stove. It could have proven very dangerous.

Edit: this really, really does need to be addressed before we continue on with getting your stove up to temp. I hope you understand that this is VERY dangerous. Like burn your house down, dangerous.
Don't let this be a show stopper, an adjustable adapter or a couple of 45 deg pieces of pipe will fix you right up. You need to get your installer back out there. This MUST be corrected.

 

[DianeB]

Kitty - as Jags said, a hot stove - like one running at 500 - 600 degrees will transfer through those tiles to the wall studs and potentially start a fire. At this point we don't think it a good idea for you to find a way to get your stove hot since you may be in a dangerous situation. I think it is wet wood, but don't want you to go out and get dry wood and use it the way it is set up now. You need to determine if indeed you have proper clearances. Never mind danger to yourself and any guests or pets you may have in your house, if your house was to burn down, insurance would not cover the liability. Remember, insurance companies first look for reasons not to pay a claim -they do not look for reasons to pay a claim

 

[Beetle-Kill]

A couple of 45's off-set might net you enough clearance and not cost an arm and a leg.
Just remember, everyone is posting out of concern for you. Ya' know, keep you safe and all.
edit- Jags beat me to it.

 

[Peaceful Angel]

Well, all this is very insightful...but i'm still cold. What to do, guys? Did i mention i don't have a mr wonderful in my life. If I have the wood thing moved that's an expense, prob significant for new hole in roof, all that...question is would moving the wood stove further out (there is space to do that) solve the heating problem? I had the HVAC guys come out on Sat to give me an est on forced air unit. My guess is all told that is going to cost me in neighborhood of $1800. (know the plumber who sent them...i get a good deal and trust him). Moving the stove pipe is prob $500 is my guess. The goal is heating the house. Any advice? I do prefer wood heating and have a good source of wood.

 

[Jags]

Without knowing your model, I looked up 3 models. The clearance to combustibles ( C to C) for the corners is:
Model 2000 - 11"
Model 2500 - 10.5"
Model 3000 - 11"

Please see for yourself: Click on the clearance to combustibles link.
https://www.usstove.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=309&product_id=502

No need to make a new hole. A simple off set section of pipe will do the trick

 

[Peaceful Angel]

Not sure what "45s" mean? for offset...And I do know everyone is trying to keep me safe. And v. much appreciate it....Icy fingers is not very sexy, though, right?

 

[Jags]

Not sure what "45s" mean? for offset...And I do know everyone is trying to keep me safe. And v. much appreciate it....Icy fingers is not very sexy, though, right?

45 degree angles. Two 45's will allow you to keep the same hole in the ceiling and allow for you to move the stove out the required amount.

 

[Peaceful Angel]

So c to c is wrong, got that. Now what is the question. Would moving the wood stove further into the room, to meet clearances, make the whole house hot?

 

[Jags]

So c to c is wrong, got that. Now what is the question. Would moving the wood stove further into the room, to meet clearances, make the whole house hot?

No. It makes your install safe to burn. The stove temp thing is a different issue, but secondary in importance at this point. This install is not currently safe to burn - period.

 

[Peaceful Angel]

OK! two 45s sound great, no new hole in ceiling. BTW, will the house get hot? Is this being too close to walls making the heat go outside? Sorry to be so ...blonde...Kitty

 

[corey21]

Looks real close to me maybe to close.

 

[weatherguy]

Not sure what "45s" mean? for offset...And I do know everyone is trying to keep me safe. And v. much appreciate it....Icy fingers is not very sexy, though, right?

Its an elbow pipe bent at 45 degrees, cant be installed on your pipe so you can move your stove out, Id call the installer and show him the info from the links above someone just posted about clearnace, he should fix it for nothing.

 

[weatherguy]

OK! two 45s sound great, no new hole in ceiling. BTW, will the house get hot? Is this being too close to walls making the heat go outside? Sorry to be so ...blonde...Kitty

If your wood is dry try burning using the method mentioned where you slowly turn the air control down instages, either your heats going up the flue or your woods not getting hot enough due to moisture.

 

[Beetle-Kill]

OK! two 45s sound great, no new hole in ceiling. BTW, will the house get hot? Is this being too close to walls making the heat go outside? Sorry to be so ...blonde...Kitty

Hot house, eventually, after the clearance issue is addressed.
Then we'll figure out your burning habits.

 

[Jags]

This is not the right kind of pipe, but it illustrated what we are talking about.

One at the ceiling coming down and pointing out and the next one will connect to it and point down for the new stove location (I hope that makes sense).

 

[Jags]

Call your installer. This will be easy and fast to fix, although the price of the pipe is a bit hard to swallow. It NEEDS to be done. Then we will get you on your way with cranking the heat up on this stove. Then you will be happy...and you want to be happy, right? (hint: the correct answer is "yes" )

 

[fossil]

Is this being too close to walls making the heat go outside?

No, that's not the problem with the lack of heating. But, as has been said, this clearance issue needs to be addressed before the other issue(s). The problem with the way the hardiboard and tile are installed here is that they are applied directly to the combustible wall, and therefore do absolutely nothing to make reduced clearances safe. The clearance to combustibles in this case is the distance from the closest point of the stove directly to the surface of the drywall behind that hardibacker (just as if the tile & backer weren't there at all). I'll attach a pic of my shop stove to illustrate how 2 45° elbows are used to create an offset. In my case, I was actually moving the stove back, where in your case you need to bring it out, but you get the idea. If the 2 elbows married directly together do not provide enough offset, then a section of pipe is simply installed between them to achieve the necessary clearance. Rick

 

[rijim]

At least pivot that thing CCW so it is at a 45 deg angle with each wall and get something like this from Lowes with a 1" air gap behind and below.

• Home​
• IMPERIAL Black Stove Board​

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Enlarged Image​

IMPERIAL Black Stove Board​

Item #: 74031 | Model #: BM0402​

(broken image removed)​

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Have you tried to burn with the damper closed down yet?

 

[Jags]

Thanks for posting that, Rick. A pic is worth a 1000 words.
PA - if your initial measurement is accurate at 5" from the corner, you will need an additional 6" spaced away from the wall (for a total of 11"). The math works out that 2 45 deg 6" pipes should get you that 6 inches.
Like I said, quick and easy for your installer.

I really do hate to bring this up, but if you move that stove 6" further out from the wall, how much hearth (or hearth pad) will you have in front of the glass of this stove?

 

[fox9988]

OK! two 45s sound great, no new hole in ceiling. BTW, will the house get hot? Is this being too close to walls making the heat go outside? Sorry to be so ...blonde...Kitty

Once the C to C has been addressed, maintaining 85+ temps should be easy in a 800 sqft well insulated house, with dry wood.

 

[fossil]

get something like this from Lowes with a 1" air gap behind and below.

That's only kosher for reducing clearances if the appliance manufacturer specifically says so in the installation instructions, otherwise the clearances cannot be reduced. Rick

 

[weatherguy]

Is it possible her house is CBC construction (concrete block contrsuction) and thats a non combustible wall?

 

[Jags]

At least pivot that thing CCW so it is at a 45 deg angle with each wall and get something like this from Lowes with a 1" air gap behind and below.

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This is another possible solution, but Rick is right on with if it is allowable or not.

Have you tried to burn with the damper closed down yet?

And PLEASE don't.

 

[Jags]

Is it possible her house is CBC construction (concrete block contrsuction) and thats a non combustible wall?

Cement board would not be needed for tiles if this were the case.