Harman P68 Distribution Fan ESP concerns

[miteclipse]

also look at the ground connection (green wires) above the distribution fan, make sure they are clean and not loose

 

[Rockin C&M Wyoming]

If you pop out the board, unplug the red wires and just plug in the black, flip the dip switches I wonder if Now The Black Wired sensor will do the same as the red is doing. Not install the black but just plug it back in. With all the pulling of wires etc and if something is loose in the board it might. Just a method of proofing .

Does the ESP have to be "grounded" by being screwed down in the exhaust pipe when it is plugged into the circuit board. I don't want to ruin a perfectly good Black Wired ESP by somehow shorting it out.

 

[Rockin C&M Wyoming]

If you pop out the board, unplug the red wires and just plug in the black, flip the dip switches I wonder if Now The Black Wired sensor will do the same as the red is doing. Not install the black but just plug it back in. With all the pulling of wires etc and if something is loose in the board it might. Just a method of proofing .

Does the ESP have to be "grounded" by being screwed down in the exhaust pipe when it is plugged into the circuit board. I don't want to ruin a perfectly good Black Wired ESP by somehow shorting it out.

 

[alternativeheat]

Does the ESP have to be "grounded" by being screwed down in the exhaust pipe when it is plugged into the circuit board. I don't want to ruin a perfectly good Black Wired ESP by somehow shorting it out.

If you have a jumper wire you can put one end on the black esp clip and the other to the mounting screw of the red wire. I'm just thinking out loud, I'd think nothing of doing this, used to do that sort of stuff on heavy trucks all the time, never fried anything LOL !

 

[Rockin C&M Wyoming]

If you pop out the board, unplug the red wires and just plug in the black, flip the dip switches I wonder if Now The Black Wired sensor will do the same as the red is doing. Not install the black but just plug it back in. With all the pulling of wires etc and if something is loose in the board it might. Just a method of proofing .

Last night after the red wired ESP gave me a new problem with both fans starting and the 3 blink error almost immediately I pulled the plug, reseated every wire with a connector including he wiring harness to the circuit board, the room temp and the esp. Plugged it back in and everything was the same. I even tried flipping the #5 dip switch to off with the red wire esp and that didn't work at all, immediately threw the 3 blink at me.

FYI to all following this thread. I have ordered a new Circuit Board with two day delivery. The only other electronic component not replaced will be the Room Sensor which is the cheapest. I'll wait on that since I can run the unit in Stove Temp Mode which ignores the room temp. sensor. I believe I have ordered the latest greatest can't fail circuit board and it will resolve every problem I have had with the stove. For a moment I said to myself: "Self, order each of the fans and the auger and motor making it a complete rebuild" then I remembered Christmas is coming and I should save some of those orders for Santa to bring.

 

[Rockin C&M Wyoming]

also look at the ground connection (green wires) above the distribution fan, make sure they are clean and not loose

I checked those when I pulled the Distribution Fan off yesterday to make sure it was clean and to retrieve the ESP hold down screw I dropped in the fan blades. All the green wires appear to be tight under one screw and not frayed

 

[Rockin C&M Wyoming]

If you have a jumper wire you can put one end on the black esp clip and the other to the mounting screw of the red wire. I'm just thinking out loud, I'd think nothing of doing this, used to do that sort of stuff on heavy trucks all the time, never fried anything LOL !

I will try this when I get back inside after I spend some "chilly" time outside (15 degrees) with a survey team marking some boundaries on our property.

Again, I would like to thank everyone who has taken the time and interest in trying to help me through this problem. I know we will get it resolved and can all celebrate to the team success.

 

[miteclipse]

hopefully the new board comes in sooner!

 

[Rockin C&M Wyoming]

hopefully the new board comes in sooner!

I'll let everyone know when the new board is supposed to arrive. UPS doesn't ever get to our place before 6 or 7 PM on the delivery day scheduled so I'm hoping I'm installing it Friday evening if the company can get it shipped today.

 

[miteclipse]

Also the new board should come with dip switch settings paper. I'm not sure if it is the same as the one in this thread, it should be.

 

[Rockin C&M Wyoming]

Also the new board should come with dip switch settings paper. I'm not sure if it is the same as the one in this thread, it should be.

I think I saw photos of what ships and it showed some dip switch setting paperwork which looks the same that someone posted on here for me.

 

[Rockin C&M Wyoming]

I think I saw photos of what ships and it showed some dip switch setting paperwork which looks the same that someone posted on here for me.

I have been notified that the new circuit board has shipped 2 day air. Now I sit and wait until the new board shows up and I try that solution. I will post when it arrives, is installed and how it all goes. Keep your fingers crossed that this is the end of the problem.

 

[Funnydirt14]

Just a little tip on your new board install. Don't know if you noticed on your control panel front (metal front that attaches to circuit board). There is a knock out where the dip switches would show thru the front. You can cut the decal around the knock out and remove the knock out for easy access to the dip switches when you assemble the board to the control panel front. Then you can use a piece of electrical tape to cover it up till you need it again. Much easier than disassembling the board from the front when changing dip switch settings like the ESP.

 

[Rockin C&M Wyoming]

Just a little tip on your new board install. Don't know if you noticed on your control panel front (metal front that attaches to circuit board). There is a knock out where the dip switches would show thru the front. You can cut the decal around the knock out and remove the knock out for easy access to the dip switches when you assemble the board to the control panel front. Then you can use a piece of electrical tape to cover it up till you need it again. Much easier than disassembling the board from the front when changing dip switch settings like the ESP.

Thanks for the info Funnydirt. I noticed that metal cutout piece on the panel front when I took it off and changed the dip switch setting for the red wired ESP. I used a needle nosed plier and took the piece out and cut the membrane on the front so I could change the dip switches without removing the board. I will take your advice to cover the opening with a piece of black electrical tape to protect it and make it look a little cleaner when I put the new board in.

.

 

[mikesj]

Just got caught up on this thread. I will keep my fingers crossed that the new board fixes things for you. It's what I would replace next...

When you were doing all of this work you didn't happen to see any signs of gremlins, did you? That would explain a lot.

 

[Rockin C&M Wyoming]

Just got caught up on this thread. I will keep my fingers crossed that the new board fixes things for you. It's what I would replace next...

When you were doing all of this work you didn't happen to see any signs of gremlins, did you? That would explain a lot.

If the new circuit board doesn't fix the problem I will have an Exorcist come out to get rid of the "gremlins".

 

[Rockin C&M Wyoming]

As I sit here waiting for the UPS truck to show up with my new circuit board I'm looking at the old circuit board I have removed. I removed the wiring harness plug connector, the Red Wired ESP and the two wires for the Room Sensor, Can anyone tell me if the Room Sensor wires have a polarity I have to worry about or does either wire attach to the two connectors on the board without harm

. I haven't been able to find any info on this.

 

[Golfeur]

It did not matter to the room sensor

 

[Golfeur]

I hope that your disorder'll be set with the new control board

 

[Rockin C&M Wyoming]

It did not matter to the room sensor

So let me clarify what you are saying Golfeur. On the back of the circuit board it doesn't matter which wire that comes from the room sensor plug on the back of the stove I plug on either of the two room sensor posts on the circuit board and likewise it doesn't matter which wire on the Room Sensor Wire I plug to either port on the back of the stove. If that is true it is Fool Proof.

 

[Golfeur]

Yes

 

[Golfeur]

If you notice in the back of the stove or you connected the temperature sensor there is no indication so it makes no difference

 

[Rockin C&M Wyoming]

CELEBRATION FOLKS!! All systems functioning as expected after the new Circuit Board was installed. I want to thank everyone for all the excellent input on how to resolve the issues I experienced with this P68 stove. I know I learned a great deal about the operation of this stove and I am hoping that some of you picked up a little bit of knowledge based on the problems and error codes I was experiencing. If you gave me your 2 cents and you happen to be around the town square in Jackson Wyoming during the summer look for an old geezer riding his horse Thunder, wearing a white uniform shirt, a straw cowboy hat and carrying a police radio. I ride with the Citizens Mounted Unit of the Jackson Police Department as a volunteer and I would be happy to buy you a beverage of your choice for your help. Thanks again guys. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all of you.

 

[Golfeur]

Happy works for you.
It is a pleasure to troubleshoot with you.
You are resourceful
Thank you I have learned things too
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year

 

[Harman Lover 007]

A beautiful sight indeed.....