Harman p61-2

[Washed-Up]

It shouldn’t do anything to the board turning it off for a minute or 2, just keep in mind you might get some smoke…as for the up and down, it sounds like the esp is satisfied with the heat and stopping the feed momentarily…you could try rolling the knobs to max and minimum a few times, then put it where you want, only other thing I can think of is the esp may be dirty or bad connection
Not sure if I sent you this or you’ve seen/read it but lots of good info

Thread 'How Your Harman Works -what your manual doesn't tell you..'

Sep 30, 2012

Thanks Mod for correcting the title!

Now, let's have some fun and stay warm!

How your stove works - The facts are pretty straightforward, but how you get people to properly interpret the facts is the hard part. It's your toy, run it the way you want as long as you understand what's going on behind the scenes! Everything noted below is based on me seeing what the stove is doing via the Harman diagnostic tool during the various operation methods. I get to see feed rates, max feed rates, current ESP temps, ESP set temps, room sensor temperatures, room sensor target...

• lbcynya
• Replies: 152
• Forum: The Pellet Mill - Pellet and Multifuel Stoves

• 

 

[Ssyko]

light comes on when the auger is on/running, so 6 seconds on 54 seconds off. depending on the programming

 

[Spaz]

It shouldn’t do anything to the board turning it off for a minute or 2, just keep in mind you might get some smoke…as for the up and down, it sounds like the esp is satisfied with the heat and stopping the feed momentarily…you could try rolling the knobs to max and minimum a few times, then put it where you want, only other thing I can think of is the esp may be dirty or bad connection
Not sure if I sent you this or you’ve seen/read it but lots of good info

Thread 'How Your Harman Works -what your manual doesn't tell you..'

Sep 30, 2012

Thanks Mod for correcting the title!

Now, let's have some fun and stay warm!

How your stove works - The facts are pretty straightforward, but how you get people to properly interpret the facts is the hard part. It's your toy, run it the way you want as long as you understand what's going on behind the scenes! Everything noted below is based on me seeing what the stove is doing via the Harman diagnostic tool during the various operation methods. I get to see feed rates, max feed rates, current ESP temps, ESP set temps, room sensor temperatures, room sensor target...

• lbcynya
• Replies: 152
• Forum: The Pellet Mill - Pellet and Multifuel Stoves

• 

This is what concerns me. On stove setting it shouldn't have control, that's the whole purpose of it, is it not? It should run at a given rate no matter what. I seem to have okay control at this point. I'm down to 3.5 decent flame. Woke up at 1am, back to bed. I gave the knob a couple of good twists.Oh and this big storm that was suppose to hit, is a joke, maybe 2 inches of snow, no freezing rain it's 38 and there's no snow on the road any on my car's has melted. And according to the radar it's over.

 

[Spaz]

This is what concerns me. On stove setting it shouldn't have control, that's the whole purpose of it, is it not? It should run at a given rate no matter what. I seem to have okay control at this point. I'm down to 3.5 decent flame. Woke up at 1am, back to bed. I gave the knob a couple of good twists.Oh and this big storm that was suppose to hit, is a joke, maybe 2 inches of snow, no freezing rain it's 38 and there's no snow on the road any on my car's has melted. And according to the radar it's over.

Had a power outage, cleaned it out. Had some carbon deposits. So it's reset and still doing it.

 

[Ssyko]

is your stove on a surge protector? When power is restored it usually spikes and it will toast a board in miliseconds

 

[Spaz]

is your stove on a surge protector? When power is restored it usually spikes and it will toast a board in miliseconds

I unplug both of them. Still getting good heat but the flame pattern is messed up. Should I be getting most of the flame between the guide and the pellets or 50/50. It seems like it's getting backed up and blocking it from coming out the space there. I'm thinking there might be a pellet issue also, but I haven't had any issues with them. Can some one post a pic of there stove on 4 or 5. And a picture of clean burned ash if it's possible.I had a better flame last night then today. But same heat. This had me totally flustered.

 

[Spaz]

I unplug both of them. Still getting good heat but the flame pattern is messed up. Should I be getting most of the flame between the guide and the pellets or 50/50. It seems like it's getting backed up and blocking it from coming out the space there. I'm thinking there might be a pellet issue also, but I haven't had any issues with them. Can some one post a pic of there stove on 4 or 5. And a picture of clean burned ash if it's possible.I had a better flame last night then today. But same heat. This had me totally flustered.

 

[Spaz]

There we go, that's mine in 5. Looks pretty whimpy. That's basically a pile of pellets burning.

 

[Spaz]

There we go, that's mine in 5. Looks pretty whimpy. That's basically a pile of pellets burning.

I did read the article, on how the stove works and I gather it's based on the ESP sensor. I though it was just a computer board fixed setting. So it makes sense that the ESP is not functioning probably if it's controling the temp setting by the exhaust. Just interesting that all this is happening at virtual the same time. What I'm experiencing is not normal i assume, because you'd think I'd have noticed it.

 

[Washed-Up]

You can pull the ESP and clean it, not a difficult task

 

[Whitenuckler]

Hi - I just got a P43 and have been learning a bit about troubleshooting. I don't know if this info will be useful now but you never know. One thing that happened to me was that I had turned the combustion air flow down too low using the little POT. That made the fire in stove mode very lazy and large. After I cranked up the blower speed it worked fine. I believe there was not enough air flow in the stove to bring the ESP probe up to temperature. I also tried OAK (outside air) but at -10C this caused a further problem of cooling the stove off. BTW I only run in continuous stove mode at the lowest setting with no room dist fan and 24/7.

 

[Spaz]

You can pull the ESP and clean it, not a difficult task

I have cataracts I couldn't find the head of a bolt if I had to. I'm also 69, I couldn't get behind my stove if I had to. I actually burnt my arm trying to find the humming motor. Which I identified as the exhaust. As I had 2 power outs yesterday and when restarting it I knew only the exhaust was running on start up.

 

[Spaz]

You can pull the ESP and clean it, not a difficult task

 

[Spaz]

I see it's located in an easy to get to location. If my dealer has one I might get a buddy to pop it out and replace it. He did the board that it's attached to, You think it's a good start. It's old I might as well replace it versus cleaning. Thoughts? And it looks like a black wire versus red wire.

 

[Washed-Up]

If your stove is still working, it is good…cleaning it gets the insulating layer of ash off of it enabling it to read the temp properly…not a bad idea to have a spare though

 

[Spaz]

If your stove is still working, it is good…cleaning it gets the insulating layer of ash off of it enabling it to read the temp properly…not a bad idea to have a spare though

I wouldn't call it working, it's all over the place temp wise on a given setting. Its usable but I can't depend on it. I'm picking one up Thursday. Let you know how it's working. He's going to install it that day.

 

[Whitenuckler]

I wouldn't call it working, it's all over the place temp wise on a given setting. Its usable but I can't depend on it. I'm picking one up Thursday. Let you know how it's working. He's going to install it that day.

Have your friend check the air flow through the stove. The instruction/installation manual will talk about measuring the negative pressure. I have done this with a homemade manometer, however in your case with an old stove your air circuit might be dirty. If you don't have good air flow the flame will be lazy, and as I mentioned the heat will not get transferred to the probe. I hooked up a 3 inch air pipe and right now suck air from a vented room (old oil furnace room) . I can clearly hear the flow and if I put my hand on it I feel the suction.
In your case if you don't have outside air, remove the cover ect and locate the air input. There might be a flapper there so check it. Put your hand on it when the combustion blower is running to feel the air flow.

 

[Spaz]

I wouldn't call it working, it's all over the place temp wise on a given setting. Its usable but I can't depend on it. I'm picking one up Thursday. Let you know how it's working. He's going to install it that day.

Okay new sound, it whistles when it feeds now. Goes up and down as the auger turns. Not sure if it's mechanical or air. I believe its air. I can feel the vibration of the auger moving, and the noise starts high goes down and up. High pitched. I opened the door to see if air flow changed the sound and it doesn't. It's not the auger moving itself from the feel of it but related it starts just before and tails off just after it ends. Feed rate doesn't change the pitch. It's some what intermittent more like a vibration. Can be quite loud. It's now only at certain times during feeding. It will completely stop and start. Sounds like it's coming from the back. I tried shaking it to see if was a rub. No difference. It tails off after the red feed light goes off. Starts when it comes on. It's 4am back to bed. Best explanation I can come up with. See if it's even running in the morning. Has no effect on heat production either. It's giving out good heat at 6. Not sure if it's surging any more. Appears not at this time. Does it draw more air when it feeds? I've decided to turn it down to a lower heat setting and turn on back up. I'll be up most of the night to see what happens and if necessary shut it off.

 

[Spaz]

Okay new sound, it whistles when it feeds now. Goes up and down as the auger turns. Not sure if it's mechanical or air. I believe its air. I can feel the vibration of the auger moving, and the noise starts high goes down and up. High pitched. I opened the door to see if air flow changed the sound and it doesn't. It's not the auger moving itself from the feel of it but related it starts just before and tails off just after it ends. Feed rate doesn't change the pitch. It's some what intermittent more like a vibration. Can be quite loud. It's now only at certain times during feeding. It will completely stop and start. Sounds like it's coming from the back. I tried shaking it to see if was a rub. No difference. It tails off after the red feed light goes off. Starts when it comes on. It's 4am back to bed. Best explanation I can come up with. See if it's even running in the morning. Has no effect on heat production either. It's giving out good heat at 6. Not sure if it's surging any more. Appears not at this time. Does it draw more air when it feeds? I've decided to turn it down to a lower heat setting and turn on back up. I'll be up most of the night to see what happens and if necessary shut it off.

Have it down to 1.5 amazed it's still running. Its just a short whistle now barely audible if that. Still getting good heat between the 2 stoves. I'm going to try some sleep now.

 

[Spaz]

Have it down to 1.5 amazed it's still running. Its just a short whistle now barely audible if that. Still getting good heat between the 2 stoves. I'm going to try some sleep now.

It's 7:45 now and it's getting louder, so I'm expecting failure. Pitch has changed to almost a squeal now. I'm going to either fall asleep or wait until it dies which ever comes first. A friend has said it's more likely the auger bearing or related, as it only does it when feeding. I'm hoping if it is it not to difficult to replace as there's no technicians available for 2 weeks. Otherwise I'll be running on the Quadrafire alone.

 

[Spaz]

Okay new sound, it whistles when it feeds now. Goes up and down as the auger turns. Not sure if it's mechanical or air. I believe its air. I can feel the vibration of the auger moving, and the noise starts high goes down and up. High pitched. I opened the door to see if air flow changed the sound and it doesn't. It's not the auger moving itself from the feel of it but related it starts just before and tails off just after it ends. Feed rate doesn't change the pitch. It's some what intermittent more like a vibration. Can be quite loud. It's now only at certain times during feeding. It will completely stop and start. Sounds like it's coming from the back. I tried shaking it to see if was a rub. No difference. It tails off after the red feed light goes off. Starts when it comes on. It's 4am back to bed. Best explanation I can come up with. See if it's even running in the morning. Has no effect on heat production either. It's giving out good heat at 6. Not sure if it's surging any more. Appears not at this time. Does it draw more air when it feeds? I've decided to turn it down to a lower heat setting and turn on back up. I'll be up most of the night to see what happens and if necessary shut it off.

It got very loud so I shut it off. I'm not sure if it's direct drive or not, but I peaked in the back and could see the motor with a drive that rotates slowly. Not sure what it turns but when it stopped the squeal stopped. It's like a crank shaft offset from the motor. My assumption is it's not the actually motor but drives the auger. From that assumption I'm guessing bad auger bearing. Again assuming that, the auger motor runs considerably faster. Am I close?

 

[Whitenuckler]

It got very loud so I shut it off. I'm not sure if it's direct drive or not, but I peaked in the back and could see the motor with a drive that rotates slowly. Not sure what it turns but when it stopped the squeal stopped. It's like a crank shaft offset from the motor. My assumption is it's not the actually motor but drives the auger. From that assumption I'm guessing bad auger bearing. Again assuming that, the auger motor runs considerably faster. Am I close?

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Harman® Pellet Stove Technology: Pellet Pro System​

Take a look at this video. Some of the noise is caused by the pellet falling ect. Look at the right side (viewed from the front). You will see a wing nut bolt where the cover goes. Remove this cover and clean out the cavity . Pellet fines can get in there and should be vacuumed out.

 

[Washed-Up]

It’s possible a bit of carbon built up at the burnpot end of the auger or some contact in the auger tube, a few shots of Dry Moly lubricant while the stove is off may solve the noise. Post a video if you can.

 

[Spaz]

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Harman® Pellet Stove Technology: Pellet Pro System​

Take a look at this video. Some of the noise is caused by the pellet falling ect. Look at the right side (viewed from the front). You will see a wing nut bolt where the cover goes. Remove this cover and clean out the cavity . Pellet fines can get in there and should be vacuumed out.

I just saw that and realized that they were connected. Also saw the wing nut. So I now now it's not direct drive.

It’s possible a bit of carbon built up at the burnpot end of the auger or some contact in the auger tube, a few shots of Dry Moly lubricant while the stove is off may solve the noise. Post a video if you can.

Nope it's off now. It was pretty quiet, similar to that but now it was just screaming. I called the dealer they have the motor and bearing. A friend has offered his help. Now that it's lighter outside I can see both the motor and drive box and it looks pretty easy to do. Just pull the back cover off and it's right there. It's move then just a rub. It's now way worde then when I first heard it.
.

 

[Spaz]

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For more detailed information, see our cookies page.

Accept third party cookies

Harman® Pellet Stove Technology: Pellet Pro System​

Take a look at this video. Some of the noise is caused by the pellet falling ect. Look at the right side (viewed from the front). You will see a wing nut bolt where the cover goes. Remove this cover and clean out the cavity . Pellet fines can get in there and should be vacuumed out.

I just saw that and realized that they were connected. Also saw the wing nut. So I now now it's not direct drive.

It’s possible a bit of carbon built up at the burnpot end of the auger or some contact in the auger tube, a few shots of Dry Moly lubricant while the stove is off may solve the noise. Post a video if you can.