Harman p61-2

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Harman® Pellet Stove Technology: Pellet Pro System​

Take a look at this video. Some of the noise is caused by the pellet falling ect. Look at the right side (viewed from the front). You will see a wing nut bolt where the cover goes. Remove this cover and clean out the cavity . Pellet fines can get in there and should be vacuumed out.

I just saw that and realized that they were connected. Also saw the wing nut. So I now now it's not direct drive.
 
Buddies coming over this afternoon to look at it. Taking it apart Friday and Saturday I go for parts if necessary.
It went from almost quiet, to screaming in less then 10 minutes. I'm not sure it would have time to build up that much. But it will be in pieces Friday. I might be sleeping on the couch beside the the Quadrafire for a night or 2, but I'll get an answer. My camera makes way to big a video to be able to post unfortunately. When I put it on test it screamed louder then I first started 4 hours ago. I slowly dropped the heat setting to see if less heat solved it, which it did. At 1.5 it was virtually gone. Less then 15 minutes later it went balistic and I shut it down. Now time to sleep, it's going to be a tough few days to come. I thank all for the input.
 
I just saw that and realized that they were connected. Also saw the wing nut. So I now now it's not direct drive.

Nope it's off now. It was pretty quiet, similar to that but now it was just screaming. I called the dealer they have the motor and bearing. A friend has offered his help. Now that it's lighter outside I can see both the motor and drive box and it looks pretty easy to do. Just pull the back cover off and it's right there. It's move then just a rub. It's now way worde then when I first heard it.
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Okay it's not the motor, I put it in test mode and watched it rotate. As soon as it hit the auger the screaming started and stopped. Once it got past it during rotation it was fine. It's getting cheaper now.😁
 
I just saw that and realized that they were connected. Also saw the wing nut. So I now now it's not direct drive.
I just did another test, and the auger moved freely back and forth a small amount. After that I couldn't move it. I wiggled is more accurate. So the augers jammed. Whi
Okay it's not the motor, I put it in test mode and watched it rotate. As soon as it hit the auger the screaming started and stopped. Once it got past it during rotation it was fine. It's getting cheaper now.😁
The bizzar ending. Buddy came over took the back off. I ran it on test and it was screaming. He did something, neither one of know what and said do it again. Put back into test mode. Not a sound other then pellets dropping. Been running an hour and still no noise. Just can't believe it. Went to start it and couldn't get the distribution fan to come on. I finally got it going I don't know how. So could someone tell me the procedure to start it with the new manual/ automatic board in it. I'll write it down this time. Much thanks every one. 🙏 What I though was the correct didn't work or I didn't wait long enough. I never got the distribution fan to come on to finish the start procedure. Here's my understanding, throw some pellets in, next add the starting gel. Leave it off, put switch in auto mode. Start the pellets on fire, close door and wait for distribution fan to come on and you're good. Problem I was having is it started feeding pellets way before it was ready to burn them, thus piling up and going out.
 
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Sounds like you did it correctly for manual start, if the pellets start feeding too soon just crack the door a bit until the fire catches up….is the igniter not working?
 
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Sounds like you did it correctly for manual start, if the pellets start feeding too soon just crack the door a bit until the fire catches up….is the igniter not working?
And that was the problem, it piled up with pellets and blocked the exhaust. I switched it back to manual cleaned it out many times. But it seems it has to be in auto for the fan to come on or am I wrong? It took forever to start.
 
Pretty sure that’s not what you meant. Blocking the exhaust would mean almost a full bag of unburnt pellets in the ash can and around the ash can. Do you mean the burnpot overflowing into the ash can?
 
Pretty sure that’s not what you meant. Blocking the exhaust would mean almost a full bag of unburnt pellets in the ash can and around the ash can. Do you mean the burnpot overflowing into the ash can?
Yaa sorry wrong term . I understand it has to heat the ESP up to 160 degrees and it's in the exhaust? Then it should start the auger and distribution fan? Thus ending the start up sequence. So it sucks the heat out the exhaust. On auto the auger seems to be starting prematurely. I know it has to be in auto for the distribution fan to come in, that was my first mistake. Just want to get my squencing right. It seems to me the tech had it in manual to start it and then turned it to auto to start the auger once the fan came on. So if I get a huge fire going with the door closed it should start the fan quicker?
 
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Ok so from everything discussed so far here is my understanding, you have a P61-2(A in the states) but you don’t have a working igniter under the burnpot. You’re starting it manually and then flipping it to auto once the burnpot is firing strong enough so that the distribution fan is coming on but the auger is feeding too much. So yes you need to get the fire in the burnpot hot enough so the auger will not overfill. Well if there was an operating igniter this wouldn’t be an issue, not sure why your service technician hasn’t suggested it.
 
Then it should start the auger and distribution fan? Thus ending the start up sequence.
the “start up time” is set in the programming. I dont know the exact time Harman uses but the average time is 12-18 minutes. It is controlled by a 555IC chip. The stove needs to be at operating temp at the end of this cycle or it will give a code.
 
Ok so from everything discussed so far here is my understanding, you have a P61-2(A in the states) but you don’t have a working igniter under the burnpot. You’re starting it manually and then flipping it to auto once the burnpot is firing strong enough so that the distribution fan is coming on but the auger is feeding too much. So yes you need to get the fire in the burnpot hot enough so the auger will not overfill. Well if there was an operating igniter this wouldn’t be an issue, not sure why your service technician hasn’t suggested it.
He did $500
 
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the “start up time” is set in the programming. I dont know the exact time Harman uses but the average time is 12-18 minutes. It is controlled by a 555IC chip. The stove needs to be at operating temp at the end of this cycle or it will give a code.
Thanks
 
the “start up time” is set in the programming. I dont know the exact time Harman uses but the average time is 12-18 minutes. It is controlled by a 555IC chip. The stove needs to be at operating temp at the end of this cycle or it will give a code.
Awww I haven't been waiting long enough. 🤙
 
Awww I haven't been waiting long enough. 🤙
After mulling it over, we came to the conclusion, that the bearing that moves the shaker (the thing at the bottom of the bin) back and forth had an issue. It only squealed while turning it. He lubricated it after it stopped squealing, hasn't made a noise since.
 
So if you put it on auto with no pellets in the burnpot does it feed and ignite on its own? Or did you opt not to spend the $500 and just light it manually?
 
So if you put it on auto with no pellets in the burnpot does it feed and ignite on its own? Or did you opt not to spend the $500 and just light it manually?
Got it knowing it was manual. And stead of burning out ignitors turning a stove on and off, this runs 24/7 which is what I wanted. Price was right too. Not to mention the BTU capacity, ease of cleaning and pellet capacity. The Quadrafire just didn't cut it. Mind you there's a learning curve. 🤐
 
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Ok gotcha…big part of why I got my P61-2 is that it has the auto ignition…and I’ve only replace one igniter in 10yrs
 
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Technician was here today, he cleaned out the exhaust fan, ( which was packed) and showed me how the system worked. The cycling is a normal thing, because the ESP is constantly trying to meet the the desired temp. Now that the fan is running at a higher rate I'm expecting better performance. Weather's quit warm right now, so I won't get much of an idea until it gets cold again. Oh cleaning out the fan also made it considerably quieter. 🥳
 
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