Any luck?Cool. Ill pick up a 6A fuse over the weekend and give it a go. Thanks!
Any luck?Cool. Ill pick up a 6A fuse over the weekend and give it a go. Thanks!
Yup. I replaced the fuse and everything started up as it should except for the auger motor.Any luck?
Ok. So I hooked up this new one and it works when I put the stove into Test mode. Even without putting the third wire on. But when I put it into either room temp or stove temp it does not work.Got the new motor in the mail.
The old motor had this receiver where my finger is pointing to. The stove has a. Extra wire that connects to it.
The new motor doesn't have this part.
Should the stove work still if I hook it up?
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Omg. I'm so dumb. I usually always have it on auto and between dealing with this stove and a tree that fell into my yard from my neighbor, I guess I just over looked this small detail.is your stove on if not if your stove is off you must put the switch on automatic and in room temperature the auger will work to send pellets into the burn pot and the heating element will light the pellets
In stove temperature you put pellets yourself and you light them and when the ESP sensor will detect enough heat the auger will start to work
The 3rd wire is a redundant ground, you can swap the tab over. Remember, chain does not have to be super tight. And doesn't hurt to lube chain. Glad your heat is back.
Yes direction would matter. When looking at the shaft see what direction it spins. According to another poster in this thread the chain drives were CCW so you should be good, but I don't know that to be true.Harman Advance 2005 build date: chain drive
I'm about to replace the auger motor, auger and differential switch. Stove has been down for a week while waiting for new parts to come in. I noticed while shopping for the new auger motor that some are clockwise, and some counter clockwise. I ordered the counter clockwise. I ordered the counter clockwise. Before I start replacing,,,,did I order the right auger motor? and would it make a difference if I didn't?
Thank you for the quick reply. I'm ready to dig into this. CCW and 4 RPM is what I got.Yes, as Shank said chain drives are CCW. 4 RPM.
3-20-08752
Got the new auger motor in finally. Had to get the sprocket on the old one off but the allen screw holding it on the old auger wouldn't come off. soaked it with wd-40 for an hour while I had lunch. Got it off and put sprocket on new motor. I was going to put the new auger in but will wait till tomorrow. I have the stove turned around and pulled out from the wall. Took off outside venting. Can I test it to see if the chain is moving without it vented? No pellets in stove, just want to see if it'll turn the auger chain. If it doesn't move, I'll replace the differential switch tomorrow with the auger. I suspected the differential switch was the original problem because , of spotty feeding and shutting down within a half hour , but I think they both kind of bit the dust within a week of each other. Can't complain ,they are the original parts left to be replaced. Distribution fan was changed 4 years ago and combustion motor 3 years ago and this will be the 3rd auger replacement. When the stove was shutting down two weeks ago, I gave it a good cleaning,,,including the rubber hoses , one that feeds air to the burn pot (stove was modified by the dealer to prevent smoke in the hopper with drilled out additional holes on the floor of the burn pot) and the one that attaches to the differential switch. It ran fine for about 12 hours and started shutting down again. When I'd tap the differential switch it would work for maybe 15 minutes, then stop feeding. Eventually no amount of tapping made it run. My old auger has a fan on it, this one doesn't. I'm guessing they don't need that plastic fan anymore. I also noticed that I could turn the shaft on the auger motor by hand when everything died, I don't think they are supposed to turn by hand. By the way, if anyone has suggestions , please keep in mind I'm a woman and don't really know all the technical terms, but know how to fix this stove,,,,just takes me a lot longer than you guys can do it. If after all this work it still doesn't run, where else would I look? I've replaced the door gasket and have the new gasket for the ash pan, not yet changed.Just a few things, as it is already "down", remove auger, if if you can, if hopper is empty, or at least spin it by hand, and make sure it spins easy and free. You will probably not be able to spin it if pellets are in it. Also, check end of auger for carbon build up, and clean. Plus, never hurts to pull the slide plate, check the rocker arm bushings, and clean and lube slide plate, file off any sharp edges. Unless weather is bad, then slap it together to use, and do these things later.
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