Harman 52i not working properly--low heat, runs dirty, excess ash

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I had my 52i installed in September of 2014. I'm almost through my first ton of Hamers/Barefoots. I've never emptied my ash can (Approximate dimensions: 14" W x 16.5" H)once, and my ashcan is only halfway filled with ashes. The description that there is a ton of ash and no heat sounds like he's burning with very little combustion blowing going on. Definitely has something to do with airflow/venting and pellets. Hope you get it sorted out soon.
 
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I cleaned the stove thoroughly this morning and there was no blockage in the vent. The ESP probe was not dirty but I cleaned it anyway. I was really hoping it would be dirty or clogged because that is an easy fix.

I am going to switch the exhaust vent so that it necks up.

Any other ideas before I shove the thing back in the fireplace?
I would like to do a draft test but don't have the tool. Can anyone explain how to adjust the draft with the white dial?

Thanks to all who have offered advice so far.
 
I cleaned the stove thoroughly this morning and there was no blockage in the vent. The ESP probe was not dirty but I cleaned it anyway. I was really hoping it would be dirty or clogged because that is an easy fix.

I am going to switch the exhaust vent so that it necks up.

Any other ideas before I shove the thing back in the fireplace?
I would like to do a draft test but don't have the tool. Can anyone explain how to adjust the draft with the white dial?

Thanks to all who have offered advice so far.
Clockwise increases. Cc decreases. Get rid of the reducer on the vent and remove the screens etc on the vent anf OAK for this test.
 
I cleaned the stove thoroughly this morning and there was no blockage in the vent. The ESP probe was not dirty but I cleaned it anyway. I was really hoping it would be dirty or clogged because that is an easy fix.

I am going to switch the exhaust vent so that it necks up.

Any other ideas before I shove the thing back in the fireplace?
I would like to do a draft test but don't have the tool. Can anyone explain how to adjust the draft with the white dial?

Thanks to all who have offered advice so far.
Take the screen off the intake till you know what's up with your stove and or install.

You can't do a whole lot with that screw without a draft meter.
 
Take the screen off the intake till you know what's up with your stove and or install.

You can't do a whole lot with that screw without a draft meter.
Agree with part one, disagree part two. According to Harman increasing the draft to max hurts nothing but efficiency and in this case max draft will be a good test.
 
Agree with part one, disagree part two. According to Harman increasing the draft to max hurts nothing but efficiency and in this case max draft will be a good test.
When he removes the restrictions if they are indeed restrictions his burn should improve, if not it won't improve. That's the big change of events he is looking for.. Moving the screw is a little change of events and more about fine tuning once the real problem is fixed. Fine tuning you need a draft meter for, IMO. If you didn't need a draft meter I'd have fine tuned my own install a year ago, fwiw.. Have you fine tuned your Harman by turning that screw without a draft meter ? If you know a good method I'm all ears ! Because I don't own the meter.
 
When he removes the restrictions if they are indeed restrictions his burn should improve, if not it won't improve. That's the big change of events he is looking for.. Moving the screw is a little change of events and more about fine tuning once the real problem is fixed. Fine tuning you need a draft meter for, IMO. If you didn't need a draft meter I'd have fine tuned my own install a year ago, fwiw.. Have you fine tuned your Harman by turning that screw without a draft meter ? If you know a good method I'm all ears ! Because I don't own the meter.
Actually I did. I found that in my case I could do so by watching the flame form and height at min burn. Found that I could easily run all the way cc. When I got a meter I found I was still above recommended min at lowest setting but flame form was far more even all around so it helped. Also largely got rid of annoying left side ignition. Before I did this I researched to be sure no harm would be done and marked the start spot.
 
Actually I did. I found that in my case I could do so by watching the flame form and height at min burn. Found that I could easily run all the way cc. When I got a meter I found I was still above recommended min at lowest setting but flame form was far more even all around so it helped. Also largely got rid of annoying left side ignition. Before I did this I researched to be sure no harm would be done and marked the start spot.
What did you end up doing about the over draft situation or did you do anything about it ? I ask because I've always suspected I have an over draft in my stove, I'm still all ears here ! .
 
What did you end up doing about the over draft situation or did you do anything about it ? I ask because I've always suspected I have an over draft in my stove, I'm still all ears here ! .
Nothing. Didn't see the point. Just not that anal I guess. Stove will fire like a mutha and keeps me warm into minus numbers so *shrug*
 
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They are restrictions it is just a matter of locating and removing all of them.

One step at a time please.

There are other things still on the list such as what follows.

As can a loose esp connection.

Poor gasket seal on the door, etc ...

Did you check that the back draft flapper operates? If it gets stuck shut you have the air flow shut off in any other position except open the burn degrades.

We should be trying to get the installation up to snuff so we see if his 52i has the same issues as HP52NOVA and can call upon Harman without the not installed correctly thing getting in the way.

God do I hate the remote thing.

Pictures of the stuff behind the insert such as the plumbing please.
 
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Nothing. Didn't see the point. Just not that anal I guess. Stove will fire like a mutha and keeps me warm into minus numbers so *shrug*
Ok then !! Ya mine will too if I want to burn that many pellets. So what would you describe to be the differences in flame form on low burn if you don't mind ?
 
Ok then !! Ya mine will too if I want to burn that many pellets. So what would you describe to be the differences in flame form on low burn if you don't mind ?
Basically low and almost dead level across the top at min burn and stays that way even as it increases until I get ash lip buildup choking it a bit as I'm sure you've seen.
 
Basically low and almost dead level across the top at min burn and stays that way even as it increases until I get ash lip buildup choking it a bit as I'm sure you've seen.
Last question, What was the burn like before the adjustment ?
 
I cleaned the stove thoroughly this morning and there was no blockage in the vent. The ESP probe was not dirty but I cleaned it anyway. I was really hoping it would be dirty or clogged because that is an easy fix.

I am going to switch the exhaust vent so that it necks up.

Any other ideas before I shove the thing back in the fireplace?
I would like to do a draft test but don't have the tool. Can anyone explain how to adjust the draft with the white dial?

Thanks to all who have offered advice so far.
Have you ever cleaned the fines box ? And if you do that then make sure you get the cover back on correctly.
 
My P68 has adjusted -.40 minimum W. C.
I try -.35 wc but I saw it a little dirty.
the flame is more beautiful was -.40 W. C.
Now I have an oak
before oak -.35 W. C. was better
the temperature is very cold here
 
My P68 has adjusted -.40 minimum W. C.
I try -.35 wc but I saw it a little dirty.
the flame is more beautiful was -.40 W. C.
Now I have an oak
before oak -.35 W. C. was better
the temperature is very cold here
My low flame has no beauty to it FWIW. It has flicking and flashing tips generally. I'm talking about at minimum output here. Fingers of flame shoot up, one left, then one right, then maybe a center hump of flame forms, a sparkler goes off. It looks like a nitro a funny car crackling away in the night .
 
My low flame has no beauty to it FWIW. It has flicking and flashing tips generally. I'm talking about at minimum output here. Fingers of flame shoot up, one left, then one right, then maybe a center hump of flame forms, a sparkler goes off. It looks like a nitro a funny car crackling away in the night .
Well I had fun playing with it and suffered no harm but everyone is different.
 
my little flame is nice since I was -.40 wc is light yellow and warm burn
but since I have the oak ashes in the stove is more glue on the wall and the stove was dirty faster
the very cold air is certainly for something
 
my little flame is nice since I was -.40 wc is light yellow and warm burn
but since I have the oak ashes in the stove is more glue on the wall and the stove was dirty faster
the very cold air is certainly for something
My OAK pulls from the garage. Unheated but we'll above outside temps.
 
the temperature is usually -15 to -35 f
 
I look at it this way, after all the crap I've done in life I'm not going to let a stove intimidate me, especially if I know I can put it back like it was with no harm done.
PTL I'm still even here !! No other explanation. And I didn't fly airplanes in times of war. Those who did I'm sure are double grateful.
 
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