Hampton H300

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mtcox said:
Wow. 2-3 years. That's a lot longer than I anticipated. However, I have 6 cords split and seasoning as we speak. It's been sitting for 6 months and I hope will be ready for 2007-08 season.

The chimney extends up about 6' above the roof line. However, the directions say that it must be 2' above anything within 10' laterally of the pipe, such as a roof line. I'm really close (if not a few inches below) that mark. How critical is this to proper operation?

I haven't seen any suggestions for another stove. Does the forum prohibit specific suggestions on types and brands?

How critical that dimension is depends to some degree on your individual situation, particularly how the conflicting obstacle, and the flue exit relate to the prevailing winds. Part of what makes a chimney work to provide draft is the airflow across it, and a nearby obstacle can cause the airflow to actually reduce the draft, rather than helping it. I would definitely consider trying to extend your chimney if you are that close to the MINIMUM dimensions dictated by the 2-3-10 rule. You should be able to get a 1' length of the same class A pipe you are using for the rest of the chimney to extend what you have.

As to stove brands, you can get lots of opinions, but probably the biggest difference is in the firebox sizes of the different models - In general, the bigger the box, the longer the potential burn, and the more heat you are likely to get out of it - It seems like most folks here like a 2.0-2.8 cu.ft. box for getting a good heat supply that will allow reliable overnight burns on a full load of good wood...

There are some differences in the material the stoves are made from, Soapstone stoves are considered better for even radiant heat, but take a longer time to get hot, and are considered better for 24/7 burners. Cast iron and steel plate get hot faster, but are less even in their heat out put (according to some) and are good for either 24/7 or "intermittent" burners. A stove that is mostly single walled will put out mostly radiant heat, and is better as a room heater, while a jacketed stove with a blower gives more convection heat, and works better when trying to move the heat around an entire house.

Beyond these generalities, in terms of specific brands, each will have their own advocates, but it's sort of like the classic "Ford vs. Chevy" pickup truck debates - each might have advantages, but both are pretty good trucks... By the same token, almost any of the North American or European made UL/EPA approved stoves are reasonably well made, good quality units (and like all manufactured products, there are occaisonal problems w/ some units) that will do a good job. Be wary of some of the Asian products like Vogelzang that are noted for having quality problems. Mostly though it's a matter of what stoves have a design best suited for your installation, budget and personal taste as to what looks good.

Gooserider
 
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