Should I avoid a cat stove?

[Jmorg]

Ill be stubborn and stick with this most likely though this winter and the next. This will be my criteria to keep it.
1. can my wife operate it, reliably without much guess work. (step 1 open damper, wait 1 minute step 2. add wood step 3. make sure STT is within this range step 4. check back in thirty minutes, if temp is this and you want higher do this, colder do that...and it happens)
2. stove reacts to adjustments made to air control
3. no issues with the stove that frustrated me repair wise, or required a service visit.
4. does it heat the room well and the room over sufficiently.

I do like the top loader, honestly. A little bit of smoke coming in isnt a big deal to me at all. DO NOT make the mistake of opening the top when damper is closed though else a little bit of smoke will be ALOT. It is a pain to have to wait, then crack it etc - so I dont know how much this will annoy me long term. I mean after all Im not loading it THAT much. If anything, Ive been opening it alot just so I can see the status of the wood (because you sure as hell cant tell through the glass!)

Have you ever gotten the stt up to about 700 for a few minutes to clean off the glass? Usually works for me. Also…I know it’s another expense, but the cat REALLY has made a huge difference in the operation of this stove. The glass does stay clean…er and the temperature has been way easier to control and once it lights off there is no smoke coming from the chimney. Here are some pics…stove’s been running for about 24 hours now.

 

[neverstop]

I have 2 90s (and 50" of horizontal) followed by 27' up. I don't need a damper. I didn't measure the draft but if my BK 30 can run so low that it runs for 36 hrs on one load, the draft certainly is not too much, I think.

Of course every chimney system will behave different ...

based on the BK30 manual for minimum flue height the system you described is almost exactly the recommended height (15 ft minimum + 4 ft (2 ft x 2 90s) + 8.33 ft (50 in horizontal)). I'm not sure what the initial height is off the stove, but it's kind of crazy how quickly requirements add up for recommended flue heights.

I'm assuming BK recommendations should serve as a pretty good rule of thumb for most stoves on the market.

 

[bholler]

based on the BK30 manual for minimum flue height the system you described is almost exactly the recommended height (15 ft minimum + 4 ft (2 ft x 2 90s) + 8.33 ft (50 in horizontal)). I'm not sure what the initial height is off the stove, but it's kind of crazy how quickly requirements add up for recommended flue heights.

I'm assuming BK recommendations should serve as a pretty good rule of thumb for most stoves on the market.

No bk recommendations are good for bk stoves. I don't know of any that require more but some don't need as much

 

[neverstop]

No bk recommendations are good for bk stoves. I don't know of any that require more but some don't need as much

many MFGs don't provide requirements like BK does, so is it safe to say if you design your system to BK requirements it should provide sufficient draft. like a worst case scenario

 

[bholler]

many MFGs don't provide requirements like BK does, so is it safe to say if you design your system to BK requirements it should provide sufficient draft. like a worst case scenario

Actually every modern stove I have installed have had those specs available. And yes if you can get 15' of chimney you should be in good shape for pretty much any stove. But sometimes 15' would be very difficult

 

[neverstop]

Actually every modern stove I have installed have had those specs available. And yes if you can get 15' of chimney you should be in good shape for pretty much any stove. But sometimes 15' would be very difficult

sorry i wasn't referring to the minimum height requirement. I was referring to the additional height required for 45s, 90s, a tee, 1ft of horizontal run.

 

[bholler]

sorry i wasn't referring to the minimum height requirement. I was referring to the additional height required for 45s, 90s, a tee, 1ft of horizontal run.

Oh that is a standard calculation everyone in the industry does all the time. And no most manufacturers don't provide that info. But when we talk about minimum height that is with offsets calculated in

 

[GrumpyDad]

Have you ever gotten the stt up to about 700 for a few minutes to clean off the glass? Usually works for me. Also…I know it’s another expense, but the cat REALLY has made a huge difference in the operation of this stove. The glass does stay clean…er and the temperature has been way easier to control and once it lights off there is no smoke coming from the chimney. Here are some pics…stove’s been running for about 24 hours now.

View attachment 300270 View attachment 300271 View attachment 300272

I see you figured out what that front shelf is for on this stove
I think Im going to get a little car vac. I have a little brush/dust pan as well that works but I end up spreading fine ashes over the hearthstone floor etc.

No I havent gotten to 700 STT. Id be fairly panicked if I did honestly as the book says not to get above 650 (too often for too long). Whatever that means right? The most I've done was 650. The other day, I was positive I hit a new temp as I was in the living room and told me wife "do you smell that". Yes...it's the cast iron/painty smell that for the most part has burned off for us. So I rushed out to see as I had just loaded the stove up about 20 mins earlier. Nope, it was at about 550 only. The only thing I can think of is, I left the damper open and air control on high to 'catch' the new logs I put in there. I meant to do that for only about 5 minutes but lost track of time. So maybe the flames were reaching areas they had not before. Or flames were reaching up the stove pipe higher than they were before as it is apparently with the strong draft when I open the top hatch, I can see flames going up through the damper and into the stove pipe like a jet engine!

My glass is still pretty dirty. I havent cleaned it intentionally to see what it will look like burning only on weekends in a couple of months. Ive had it completely sooted, but now it doesnt seem to soot up as easily. Id say it is about 1/2 the way clearer whereas I can easily see through it. 1/4 is sparely see through whereas another 1/4 is covered in thick black soot. The stove is interesting to control. And yes Im sure temps outside will change how I operate the stove in the coming months. Last weekend I loaded the stove to the top and shut down the air control to the 2nd lowest setting. I woke up the next day to 1/2 of the wood still remaining and STT at 350. The room was about 72, but it was only about 50 degrees overnight. This weekend, I loaded it up and woke up to only some small coals. Nothing that could start another fire so I had to add some kindling, start that then add my splits. I set the control to I think the 5th click. It was about 42 overnight. I tried again the next day and went to the 4th click and that seemed to be the sweet spot whereas I had some larger coals in the morning and 41 overnight.
I had a head scratcher once this weekend. I had what was left of two-three logs burning on about medium but the stove was rising to temps that were making the room uncomfortable (75 degrees) so I lowered the stove abit but it kept climbing. I then shut it down all the way but the stt kept climbing. The two-three logs that were left from a full load were glowing red hot. The air was mighty that evening, and colder. I was starting to get concerned that it was going to get close to overheating, and thought what would it do if it had more wood in it! Well then, I just simply added alot more wood on top of this leaving everything shut down, and within an hour the STT dropped to 350 degrees. So I cranked it to full open for awhile then back to medium, and I saw some nice flames and the STT went back to about 500 and stayed there.

I find the best flames, best more even heat is running this stove at medium. Once the wood burns down to most of the contents being red hot, either let it ride and it will run hotter or load it up. I like to see the flames, so keep it 1/3 of the way full on medium seems to be the sweet spot for me so far. Or about 1/2 filled. If I load the stove up with big pieces to the top and want a long burn, I cant forget about seeing flames.

I also learned this weekend, that putting the thermometer on the griddle plate early burn (after you start it and for some time after) is rather misleading and inaccurate. Sure the griddle may be 600, but the rest of the stove (sides for example) is NOWHERE near up to temperature. That griddle heats up and cools down MUCH faster than the rest of the stove. So I put the STT thermometer behind the griddle until I've had it running for awhile, say 2-3 hours, then move it back to the griddle. At that point, the temperatures match, but prior to that, you cant really trust that griddle temp.

 

[begreen]

Cast iron will tolerate 700º easily, no need to panic if it gets up there occasionally. It can cruise at 650º for hours.

 

[GrumpyDad]

Cast iron will tolerate 700º easily, no need to panic if it gets up there occasionally. It can cruise at 650º for hours.

Ok good to know. I know I have plenty of other metal parts that I would worry about. In fact my air adjustment seemed less clicky and more stiff when I was using it the other day. I just want longevity and I realize that these were designed to run non stop whereas I will use mine for 2to3 days a week only.
I will say I was impressed with how long the stove put out heat. Nothing left but fine or really small ash burning and hours later the stove top was too hot to hold a hand onto.

 

[stoveliker]

If your window keeps being dirty, and sometimes the stove temp keeps climbing despite turning it down, you could have an air leak.

Did you do a dollar test on the door (and any other gasket you have)?

And to the other remark, don't ever burn plastic in a stove, cat or not. Period.

 

[EbS-P]

Thanks for the input everyone!

I called around and here is what’s in stock nearby:

Lopi Evergreen
PE Alderlea T5 & T6
BK Ashford 30
Jotul F45, F55, F500 V3
Hearthstone Shelburne & Heritage

Seems like there’s something in there that will work - any thoughts? Is the T6/BK 30 too large for my space?

I vote T5 or T6. Depends on how close to the coast you are and how well insulated. You put 4 cords a year through 1.7 cu ft. If you don’t mind the thermal cycles going a little more in each direction the T6 could easily be a 12 hour stove. Then when is gets really cold you have the capacity. I think the T5 would get you really close to what you want but 6 and 6 reloads of the T6 would be very nice. Keep your tank tops and flip flops out. It’s a tough call. I woke up one morning in Orono and it was -30 air temp. I’d want the T6 that week.

 

[Jmorg]

. I was starting to get concerned that it was going to get close to overheating, and thought what would it do if it had more wood in it! Well then, I just simply added alot more wood on top of this leaving everything shut down, and within an hour the STT dropped to 350 degrees. So I cranked it to full open for awhile then back to medium, and I saw some nice flames and the STT went back to about 500 and stayed there.

Yes I would get those wild temp swings quite a bit last year without the cat…it was very difficult to find the sweet spot but eventually I would find it. I haven’t had any crazy swings yet with the cat in. Good luck…I hope it starts acting better on a consistent basis for you!

 

[GrumpyDad]

If your window keeps being dirty, and sometimes the stove temp keeps climbing despite turning it down, you could have an air leak.

Did you do a dollar test on the door (and any other gasket you have)?

And to the other remark, don't ever burn plastic in a stove, cat or not. Period.

I will need to thoroughly clean and check. Ive had about 4 overnight burns, and about 6 all day burns plus about 8 break in > light heating burns since install.

The damper feels pretty tight to seal, wife had a hard time at first getting it to fully close. The doors seal pretty solid, I can feel it. And the ash pan at first was almost impossible to seal, almost too tight but has lighten up by now.

 

[stoveliker]

I'm not sure I can "feel" how good the seal is by only feeling the door mechanics.
And I think that's why the dollar bill test was concocted.

 

[GrumpyDad]

I'm not sure I can "feel" how good the seal is by only feeling the door mechanics.
And I think that's why the dollar bill test was concocted.

gotcha, well true right I could have high spots in the gasket causing it to be hard to close right? But then the rest of the door isnt fully sealing. I looked rather carefully at the stove (once I got it unwrapped at home) and inspected all the gaskets. They way they route them is pretty straight forward, there's even an extra channel at the end run where they wrap some excess and it was evenly flat / dispersed. The ash pan, I didnt really check as well as it is a PITA to look/get under there.

 

[RShim]

I really like using my properly designed cat stove. Out of all the cat stoves on the market there are only a few that I would call properly or well designed.

May I assume you have a Blaze King by your signature tags? Which, if I want to cook on the stove, is probably not the best choice from what I am learning in these forums.

 

[bholler]

May I assume you have a Blaze King by your signature tags? Which, if I want to cook on the stove, is probably not the best choice from what I am learning in these forums.

I am not sure what makes you think that

 

[stoveliker]

I think the ashford can be cooked on? My chinook better not because of the convection deck - but I don't see that on the Ashford.

 

[begreen]

I think the ashford can be cooked on? My chinook better not because of the convection deck - but I don't see that on the Ashford.

The Ashford lid can be lifted off to expose the stovetop, but it is quite heavy, and then where do you set down a big, hot stove top?

 

[stoveliker]

The Ashford lid can be lifted off to expose the stovetop, but it is quite heavy, and then where do you set down a big, hot stove top?

You are right. I was looking in the brochure that I downloaded in by clicking "ashford 30" on the BK website, but the first stove pictured in that brochure, and thus the stove I looked at is a Sirocco.
I think for the Sirocco one does not need to take a top plate off.

In any case, I do think the PEs are easier to cook on. So if it's something one does want to do often, that is not a bad choice.
If it is something to do in case of emergency, then I don't think it's smart to make a choice based on the cooking aspect. Many other ways (e.g. Dutch oven on bbq). The PEs have many good things going for them though.
As I said earlier, I don't think you can make a wrong choice here.

 

[Highbeam]

May I assume you have a Blaze King by your signature tags? Which, if I want to cook on the stove, is probably not the best choice from what I am learning in these forums.

Yes my house stove is a blaze king princess and it is just as good, if not better, than about any other stove for cooking on should your oven, BBQ, campstove, microwave, air fryer, toaster, or other cooking appliance fail to operate all at once.

I would absolutely not make a woodstove choice based on cooking ability. It's not even a small factor really.

 

[begreen]

Yes, there are many stoves that have a nice cooking surface that are in the 2 cu ft range. The Quad 3100 Millenium step top is a classic choice too. We didn't use our stove for cooking for a few years, though my wife would often use it with the trivet swung out for rising bread dough. Then I started experimenting with slow cooking and got hooked. We use it for this task several times during the winter now and have even cooked a turkey breast for Thanksgiving or Christmas in our dutch oven on the trivet top.

 

[RShim]

Yes my house stove is a blaze king princess and it is just as good, if not better, than about any other stove for cooking on should your oven, BBQ, campstove, microwave, air fryer, toaster, or other cooking appliance fail to operate all at once.

I would absolutely not make a woodstove choice based on cooking ability. It's not even a small factor really.

Good to know about BK, which is not an option at my local dealer. But good for others who might be considering to your reply. My take on it was the BK radiant heat may be too warm to be near for cooking, but that was me trying to figure out why the person would not choose BK for cooking. If my dealer carried it it would definitely be a stove I would look at.

 

[bholler]

Good to know about BK, which is not an option at my local dealer. But good for others who might be considering to your reply. My take on it was the BK radiant heat may be too warm to be near for cooking, but that was me trying to figure out why the person would not choose BK for cooking. If my dealer carried it it would definitely be a stove I would look at.

Bk stoves don't have more radiant heat than any other stoves infact they have less than many