RandyBoBandy
Minister of Fire
What’s stopping you from building a stove compliant hearth extension and still using the current fireplace opening to vent the stove?
The face is pulling off the wall it needs fixed.What’s stopping you from building a stove compliant hearth extension and still using the current fireplace opening to vent the stove?
Yeah I understand that part but after the tear down can he just brace the floor with some extra framing, tile it to stove spec and still use existing chimney opening? Would this make more sense than taping into the chimney farther up the wall? I’m just trying to understand the masons suggestions to not do a freestander.The face is pulling off the wall it needs fixed.
If that is what you want do it. Remove it all and run a prefab chimney. Its not what i would do but nothing wrong with it.This was a guy from the fireplace store not the mason. He really didn't want to demo the hearth extension. Probably why he didn't want to run the stove pipe into the fireplace opening. I suggested tapping into the chimney further up because I knew the stoves I want have the pipe coming out the top.
I would love to ditch what I have now and have a setup like in the image attached. Maybe put some sort of stone on the wall behind the stove .View attachment 230744
What would you do and why not tap into the existing masonary chimney and add the stainless pipe?If that is what you want do it. Remove it all and run a prefab chimney. Its not what i would do but nothing wrong with it.
This is my first post. I know nothing about fireplaces or wood stoves or anything. Like a good homeowner (not like the people I bought the house from) I knew I should have my fireplace cleaned and inspected. I been in this house of horror for two years now. If it can go wrong it does and this is just the latest issue.
I had a reputable company come out and clean and inspect. I was told my chimney looks good but the hearth is pulling away and was not built to code. They said it is unsafe to use the fireplace and happily handed me the attached estimate for repairs. I was planning on getting a wood burning fireplace insert but now with this repair estimate that probably won't happen for a very long time. My question here really is do I have less expensive options. Would ripping out the hearth and having a wood burning stove installed be any less expensive?
This is my first post. I know nothing about fireplaces or wood stoves or anything. Like a good homeowner (not like the people I bought the house from) I knew I should have my fireplace cleaned and inspected. I been in this house of horror for two years now. If it can go wrong it does and this is just the latest issue.
I had a reputable company come out and clean and inspect. I was told my chimney looks good but the hearth is pulling away and was not built to code. They said it is unsafe to use the fireplace and happily handed me the attached estimate for repairs. I was planning on getting a wood burning fireplace insert but now with this repair estimate that probably won't happen for a very long time. My question here really is do I have less expensive options. Would ripping out the hearth and having a wood burning stove installed be any less expensive?
Personally i would fix the fireplace. And do an insert. But i would be doing the work myself and it doesnt mean that is what you should do.What would you do and why not tap into the existing masonary chimney and add the stainless pipe?
LOL, that was my initial suggestion.Mason came and he poked and prodded and pushed and looked. Then told me to fill cracks with high temp stuff and just watch it. He doesn't think there is any need for anything else at this point. Told me it is $175 for him to do it. He said there is no chance of it falling forward.
So now I am just waiting for fireplace store bid.
LOL, that was my initial suggestion.
What product is it? I am pretty sure that was absolutly the wrong thing to use.Used 3m fire block from the big box stores.
Fb 136 is inly rated to 240 degrees not for this purpose at all.3M Fire Block Sealant FB. 136
What should I have used? This is rated at like 1400 degrees and said for use on fireplaces.
Sorry home depots site said 240 i checked other places confirm what you said my bad.The tube says 1382 degrees and says for use on fireplaces . 90% of the reviews online are of people using it inside fireboxes with positive results . So guess we will see.
Yes i agreeI'm seeing 240 and I'm seeing 1380 and 3M's site is useless.
I'm seeing 240 and I'm seeing 1380 and 3M's site is useless.
The msds sheet says non combustible you are fine with it. Just some crappy info on the web. Sorry again for the confusion. I had to check because most fireblock products are still flammable so it worried me.The container itself is saying
I didn't even see the site when I bought it. I was going off of what the package says. According to the package it should be fine. I was at Lowe's to get the moisture meter, for $22 I might ad and this was the only product I saw that would fit my needs . It is solid as a rock now. I am keeping an eye on the area anyway.
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