Been way to warm here lately to fire the stove. I'm kinda bummed about that. Hopefully in the next few days I'll be able to wire the controller in. Got to put the plow on the wood hauler and some minor stuff. Just checking in, carry on.
Everything Drolet Tundra - Heatmax...
- Thread starter brenndatomu
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Ok like I said I'm terrible with electrical anything. From the diagrams posted here the best I can figure out on my totaline controller my wiring would be.... Line 1 120 v neutral leg, line 2 120v hot leg which also runs to fan capacitor, motor 2 to fan motor. 24v I'm still trying to figure out, then would I use an adjustable snap disc for my probe input? Totally ignorant on this. I'e read so much im getting confused.
If yours is like this...(broken link removed)
Terminal 2 just gets tied into neutral.
You'd cut into the 120V power wire going to the blower motor and then tie the powered side of it into terminal 3.
Terminal 1 goes to the blower motor on the other end of that wire you just cut.
Terminals 5 and 6 go to a 24V power source...other than the existing one for the Tundra! The Tundras 24V transformer power gets cut off if the high limit switch is ever activated (closing the damper)...nothing like having your blower shut off right when you need it most!
I suppose you could re-wire things so that the damper motor is the only thing that gets cut off by the high limit switch, therefore leaving the transformer powered, but if wiring is not your forte, then better just find a second 24V source (I just used a second transformer...they can be found pretty cheap on fleabay)
The temp sensor goes to the other two terminals on the bottom there. I just taped the sensor to my supply pipe...going inside with it would be too hot and the blower would want to run on high too much...you'll have to play with it to find just the right spot.
FYI, you have sleeve bearings there so don't get down into the ball bearing adjustment range...burn things up maybe. As for the cut out temp, you'll have to play with that too...don't get it set too low...no sense in it anyways, even at 65-70V you are only moving a little air...the blower is very quiet at those speeds!
Terminal 2 just gets tied into neutral.
You'd cut into the 120V power wire going to the blower motor and then tie the powered side of it into terminal 3.
Terminal 1 goes to the blower motor on the other end of that wire you just cut.
Terminals 5 and 6 go to a 24V power source...other than the existing one for the Tundra! The Tundras 24V transformer power gets cut off if the high limit switch is ever activated (closing the damper)...nothing like having your blower shut off right when you need it most!
I suppose you could re-wire things so that the damper motor is the only thing that gets cut off by the high limit switch, therefore leaving the transformer powered, but if wiring is not your forte, then better just find a second 24V source (I just used a second transformer...they can be found pretty cheap on fleabay)
The temp sensor goes to the other two terminals on the bottom there. I just taped the sensor to my supply pipe...going inside with it would be too hot and the blower would want to run on high too much...you'll have to play with it to find just the right spot.
FYI, you have sleeve bearings there so don't get down into the ball bearing adjustment range...burn things up maybe. As for the cut out temp, you'll have to play with that too...don't get it set too low...no sense in it anyways, even at 65-70V you are only moving a little air...the blower is very quiet at those speeds!
![[Hearth.com] Everything Drolet Tundra - Heatmax...](/talk/data/attachments/216/216924-b7bebb19c58cdd46965bc44d57b29a43.jpg?hash=sVdtnURPVP)
Little bit different labeling, but should work the same way. I got this thing used without a temp probe. what would you suggest for a probe? Thermocouple or ?
not a TC, it is a type of resistor called a thermistor. It takes a specific one. I'll see if I can find the ones that were on fleabay.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Carrie...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649
I think this is the standard sensor like I used. They make a low, standard, and high temp. About 10* difference in the range between each one IIRC. I thought about getting a high temp, but was able to add a 1200 ohm resistor in line on my std. to fake the controller out and make it work in the range I wanted.
I think this is the standard sensor like I used. They make a low, standard, and high temp. About 10* difference in the range between each one IIRC. I thought about getting a high temp, but was able to add a 1200 ohm resistor in line on my std. to fake the controller out and make it work in the range I wanted.
I just looked it up because I couldn't remember.
The ICM 375 sensor is 50-80F.
The ICM 376 sensor is 70-100F and I think this is the standard one that normally come with the controller. I misspoke before saying I had used the 95-120F one...which will work good too, but mine came with this 70-100F sensor and I made it work by adding the resistor in line...more resistance makes the operating range go up.
The ICM 377 sensor is 95-120F
The ICM 379 sensor is also 70-100F
The Totaline brand stuff we have is the same, just re-branded for Carrier...different part #s. The sensor I linked before is a Totaline P251-0086 sensor, same as the ICM 377 above...
The ICM 375 sensor is 50-80F.
The ICM 376 sensor is 70-100F and I think this is the standard one that normally come with the controller. I misspoke before saying I had used the 95-120F one...which will work good too, but mine came with this 70-100F sensor and I made it work by adding the resistor in line...more resistance makes the operating range go up.
The ICM 377 sensor is 95-120F
The ICM 379 sensor is also 70-100F
The Totaline brand stuff we have is the same, just re-branded for Carrier...different part #s. The sensor I linked before is a Totaline P251-0086 sensor, same as the ICM 377 above...
Last edited:
Getting cold here finally. Was 61 yesterday tho... got my hillbilly heat dump made up, tested and installed. I'm happy with it for now. Will probably get a legit one when money allows. It may look like it's got a gap, but it is sealed.
Attachments
![[Hearth.com] Everything Drolet Tundra - Heatmax...](/talk/data/attachments/217/217179-6275e5c55d4ac641c08e7de636f92890.jpg?hash=ZF_n9yJ0GT)
![[Hearth.com] Everything Drolet Tundra - Heatmax...](/talk/data/attachments/217/217180-7b16b301e584bbe15c0ec98be529057c.jpg?hash=wEFHD7PW2e)
![[Hearth.com] Everything Drolet Tundra - Heatmax...](/talk/data/attachments/217/217181-1cf747d8d7ffcd7c647dd6b83f0c2914.jpg?hash=ORls_kATSW)
![[Hearth.com] Everything Drolet Tundra - Heatmax...](/talk/data/attachments/217/217182-b6ef0e1416cd483f156a467fa778d33c.jpg?hash=5YAjI0_ymF)
![[Hearth.com] Everything Drolet Tundra - Heatmax...](/talk/data/attachments/217/217183-23767697a21355aa2185663e3268e7be.jpg?hash=cjEOFe2j_w)
![[Hearth.com] Everything Drolet Tundra - Heatmax...](/talk/data/attachments/217/217184-a04dff60e12faf4909260eac8df5ff72.jpg?hash=jfmGwgfzzo)
![[Hearth.com] Everything Drolet Tundra - Heatmax...](/talk/data/attachments/217/217185-00175134b7a9f4add54d799c358979c4.jpg?hash=777TA64RB_)
![[Hearth.com] Everything Drolet Tundra - Heatmax...](/talk/data/attachments/217/217186-64a3a9707b69d89262542a502416b2a9.jpg?hash=pa7feK5Kna)
![[Hearth.com] Everything Drolet Tundra - Heatmax...](/talk/data/attachments/217/217187-b2584fa951d2f0b5199d1b8b292aeec8.jpg?hash=dJPktI-wiB)
![[Hearth.com] Everything Drolet Tundra - Heatmax...](/talk/data/attachments/217/217188-8a917544d870af5d4e732a1dc390c194.jpg?hash=ZF_n9yJ0GT)
![[Hearth.com] Everything Drolet Tundra - Heatmax...](/talk/data/attachments/217/217189-a8afce609bee102fdf783161e4075d71.jpg?hash=D6KEC4KQBi)
JRHAWK9
Minister of Fire
Are you in WI by chance? Sounds like our weather here, as we hit 60° yesterday but now will be getting down to the lower teens the next handful of nights with a chance of single digits with wind chills near 0.
Dave, can you link to the 24v power supply you are using? I can't find any data sheet that shows what kind of current the Totaline controller uses.
I bought the Totaline controller. I have just been mulling over the best setup for it. What if the controller fails, do I have a relay that runs the blower on high?, etc. I have been wondering about the best setups from a safety point of view, but it negates from the K.I.S.S. method.
I bought the Totaline controller. I have just been mulling over the best setup for it. What if the controller fails, do I have a relay that runs the blower on high?, etc. I have been wondering about the best setups from a safety point of view, but it negates from the K.I.S.S. method.
JRHAWK9
Minister of Fire
FWIW, I have a buddy who is an HVAC guy and he says those controllers are pretty reliable. Having said that, I will be wiring up a relay and a second snap switch (set at a much higher close temp) to re-direct power to the low speed winding on my blower, as a precaution. I'm also going to be replacing all four of my relays in my setup with RIB2401B's, as I guess they are the most reliable ones around.
(broken link removed to https://www.functionaldevices.com/products/building-automation/details/RIB2401B/)
(broken link removed to https://www.functionaldevices.com/products/building-automation/details/RIB2401B/)
I have several back ups if things fail - first and foremost being in a rural area the concern is power failure. Tundra is run thru a 1000w pure sine inverter charger with transfer switch and a deep cycle marine battery that will run the tundra fan a good 5-6 hours, perhaps more. Plenty of time to cover a full load at least for the hot part of the burn cycle.
As far as the fan speed controller failing, possible so in my case I attached a spare fan snap switch to the top of the Tundra, spaced it up a bit so it does not trip on at the normal temperatures, wired it to run the propane furnace fan. Not ideal but it will cool down the Tundra all be it reverse air flow. (Tundra is installed as a add on to the existing Propane FA furnace, as many are)
As far as the fan speed controller failing, possible so in my case I attached a spare fan snap switch to the top of the Tundra, spaced it up a bit so it does not trip on at the normal temperatures, wired it to run the propane furnace fan. Not ideal but it will cool down the Tundra all be it reverse air flow. (Tundra is installed as a add on to the existing Propane FA furnace, as many are)
JRHAWK9
Minister of Fire
We too are in a rural area. They recently looped our power and put it underground, so it's not too much of a concern anymore. Before that we were the LAST house on an unlooped dead end above ground service. We were losing power quite frequently. The Kuuma is rated for gravity flow, so I have no issues there, as my setup is designed with gravity flow in mind when losing power. The Kuuma also closes down the primary air completely when losing power.
I have my LP furnace EAC circuit controlling relays on other aspects of my system (powered damper and also low speed winding on my wood blower in certain situations), so the only time the LP blower should run is when the LP heat or AC is on. Otherwise my system, as a whole, will not function as designed. I pretty much have things setup to be fully automatic/seamless between the wood and LP furnaces, both summer and winter. All dampers and blowers are setup so nothing backfeeds in all situations and, if needed, both furnaces can run at the same time w/o having to manually do anything. Just turn on the heat/AC and the system relays do the rest. I'm basically using the LP's EAC circuit and two different snap switches in the wood furnace plenum to control 4 different relays to do what I want things to do at various times. Also have a whole home April Aire humidifier setup on the wood furnace plenum to run when the wood furnace blower is running and when inside relative humidity drops below a certain level based on outside temps.
Last edited:
Well which one of you wants to come do these upgrades on my stove? I'll buy the beer. Haha! My biggest issue is just finding the time, and balancing a few other projects, not to mention Christmas. The more I think about it the more I'm sure the fan speed controller could help get more heat from the stove.
Matt78
Burning Hunk
Been awhile since I checked in. Anyone ever figure how to get more heat out of this thing? My biggest problem is the wood seems to coal up a lot when it gets about 20 degrees out. Is there anything to remedy this?
Matt78
Burning Hunk
Max Caddy or HeatPro...
That must be about where your heat load matches Tundras max output...
Good reminder on the dirty air filter
Insulation and airsealing! I cannot stress it enough. We struggled for years, now it's not an issue. We have a Caddy, but currently there's a small coalbed and it's 75 in the house. It's 16 and dropping with chills in the single digits.
JRHAWK9
Minister of Fire
Out of curiosity, did you notice any difference in being able to keep your house humidified after sealing things up and insulating? We currently have TWO whole home humidifiers going and are putting 6-9 gallons of water a day into the air to keep it around the 40% RH. The colder it is outside the more water we put in the air. If RH drops below a certain level the humidistat will kick in the April Aire, but I don't like to run it if I don't have to as it cools down my supply temps some. This is why I prefer to use the stand alone humidifiers.
