Everything Drolet Tundra - Heatmax...

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Your right. I should just bury my head in the sand and not pay attention to what's going on. Or make a comment about being surprised china made anything good. If you read everyone of my posts in this thread there is not one negative statement about this furnace from me. I have a wood furnace, so a thread about a wood furnace IS for me. Not that I care what anyone (especially commies) thinks what "probably isn't for me"
First off we don't know if they used China, U.S., or even Canadian parts. You haven't contributed one relevant post to this thread. This thread was on topic until your comment.

Go read the first post. Here is part of it in case you can't find it. Lets try to keep this more or less on topic and pizzin contest/product bashing free so as to keep this thread open, helpful, and ongoing for everybody.
 
The bottom line is that SBI is standing by their product so that should make everyone that has a Tundra happy.
 
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Brennatomu started a good thread, let's keep it that way.

If I need to defend myself online, hopefully it's by having earned respect from helpful or positive posts. If so, I don't have any use for putting others down. Food for thought...
 
You haven't contributed one relevant post to this thread. This thread was on topic until your comment.
Come on now...play nice. ;) Us air scorchers hafta stick together, the stove guys think we are weirdo basement dwellers, the indoor boiler guys think we are full of hot air :rolleyes: ==c, the OWB guys ignore us cuz, well, they are just mad we can stoke the fire in our underwear! I personally vote Stihly in based on being a fellow scorcher and he (normally) adds valuable HVAC knowledge. (even though he's one of them non-chimney-cleaning Kuuma owners...::-))
 
Come on now...play nice. ;) Us air scorchers hafta stick together, the stove guys think we are weirdo basement dwellers, the indoor boiler guys think we are full of hot air :rolleyes: ==c, the OWB guys ignore us cuz, well, they are just mad we can stoke the fire in our underwear! I personally vote Stihly in based on being a fellow scorcher and he (normally) adds valuable HVAC knowledge. (even though he's one of them non-chimney-cleaning Kuuma owners...::-))


How appropriate I read this in my underwear while sitting in my basement !!!
 
Meanwhile back at the Tundra...
 
Hello, my name is Levi and I didn't know that my Tundra had a crack problem. I mean I had my suspicions, it wold come home late at night smelling of hedge and when I asked it where it had been it would say "no where" or "don't worry about it old man" but I just thought these were normal growing pains...... ok, thats all I got but I think we all need to head over to the wood shed and have a cold one. Chill out and warm up splitting some wood! First one's on me :cool:
 
hey guys i wasnt trying to start a p*ssing match about whos stove is better. Just wanted the word to get around to look the stoves over so that if this was just a problem with a certain batch of stoves they all could be found and brought to SBI's attention. just seems like everyone i have talked to have said "well oi never noticed that on my stove, but ill have to take a closer look" and then they come back and say "son of gun, now that i looked closely mines doin that to". i feel that SBI will take care of the affected stoves properly with out much fuss from what ive red about there customer support. but only time will tell.
 
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hey guys i wasnt trying to start a p*ssing match about whos stove is better.
Meh, no worries, its been along winter, natives are just gettin restless, it happens. Appreciate the heads up!
 
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Meh, no worries, its been along winter, natives are just gettin restless, it happens. Appreciate the heads up!


Agreed, A good bit of info to have out there, have not ever received my Tundra yet but will be watching out for this now. ;)
 
Here's a question/comment: Simply replacing the unit isn't good enough in my opinion. I know this sounds brash, but if I hire a company to come in and install my unit to the tune of $800+, and there is a failure, I don't have the knowledge, know how, ability, whatever. to swap a 530lb unit, and though all of the piping is there and ran correctly, for those incapable of doing so, are they plan on paying for a second install as well? After all, this failure is not my problem, and when I pay for professional install for a faulty unit, I'm certainly not going to pay for a second one.
 
oh believe me I'm not looking forward to having to change out the unit if that's the case i have a old farm house with a narrow stair case with a 90* turn half way down. ended up taking half the stairs out and sticking a 20ft I beam mounted on front of my CTL in threw a window across from the stairs. this way we could use a chain hoist and pick it up and lower it straight down from the first floor to the basement.
[Hearth.com] Everything Drolet Tundra - Heatmax...
stairs out

(broken image removed) beam in place

[Hearth.com] Everything Drolet Tundra - Heatmax...
next stop basement

[Hearth.com] Everything Drolet Tundra - Heatmax...
yes this was not trick photos this really happened lol
 
Here's a question/comment: Simply replacing the unit isn't good enough in my opinion. I know this sounds brash, but if I hire a company to come in and install my unit to the tune of $800+, and there is a failure, I don't have the knowledge, know how, ability, whatever. to swap a 530lb unit, and though all of the piping is there and ran correctly, for those incapable of doing so, are they plan on paying for a second install as well? After all, this failure is not my problem, and when I pay for professional install for a faulty unit, I'm certainly not going to pay for a second one.
If you read the warranty it covers labor on the firebox for 3 years...
 
Just checked mine, no cracks - Sept 16, 2014 build date, serial in the high 1340's (don't remember last digit) Installed late in November, heating 3400 sq ft since. I did add a flue temperature monitoring device, it shuts the damper when temps hit 625F, don't know if this would have an effect on the cracking issue, but it could.

I do know that without this added device, the heat load of this house the thermostat would continuously call for heat and the tundra would get HOT until the high limit tripped.

I bought a 2nd one for one of my outbuildings just a few weeks ago, the last Menards 11% off the $1399 sale price- still on the pallet but was surprised to find it had the same build date and a lower serial number - 1342. I guess Menards inventory is not first in first out.
 
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Just checked mine, no cracks - Sept 16, 2014 build date, serial in the high 1340's (don't remember last digit) Installed late in November, heating 3400 sq ft since. I did add a flue temperature monitoring device, it shuts the damper when temps hit 625F, don't know if this would have an effect on the cracking issue, but it could.

I do know that without this added device, the heat load of this house the thermostat would continuously call for heat and the tundra would get HOT until the high limit tripped.

I bought a 2nd one for one of my outbuildings just a few weeks ago, the last Menards 11% off the $1399 sale price- still on the pallet but was surprised to find it had the same build date and a lower serial number - 1342. I guess Menards inventory is not first in first out.

i like the idea of the flue temp monitoring device, any idea where you got yours from? was it easy to install?
 
i like the idea of the flue temp monitoring device, any idea where you got yours from? was it easy to install?


I'll have to detail it and post it up some time- but still in the process of prepping my old house to sell.
Basically it's a J-type thermocouple ($30) from Mcmaster mounted in the double wall connector pipe about 12" above the furnace exit.
Thermocouple is connected to a relay output temperature controller from Omega engineering ($95). I wired it so the normally closed relay contact is in series with the existing high temp limit, when the control reaches it's set point (625F- it's adjustable) it opens the contact, thus closing the draft door. It reopens it once the temp drops to 425F (also adjustable via hysteresis setting). I love the control - I can throw a load of wood in and forget about it....
 
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sounds like a awesome set up :)

Forgot to mention the draft door only re-opens if something else has closed the thermostat connections - either a thermostat calling for heat, or as many of us have added - a timer for reloads or cold starts. (typically a "hot tub timer" wired in parallel with the thermostat) Mine is 0-60 minutes and I set it to 15mn on a re-load on a hot bed of coals, or 30mn+ for a cold start.
 
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ya i already have a timer wired in, I'm not great with electrical controls but have a rough idea of how your system must be set up. but if you ever get caught up and have a chance a diagram of how its all hooked up would be awesome. not worried about trying to duplicate your system anymore this heating season but would like to have it set up for fall. i googled the components you used and found a great thermal-couple but have no idea what controller would be the right one, so if u could include a model, part #, or even a link would be awesome for the controller. thanks in advance
 
ya i already have a timer wired in, I'm not great with electrical controls but have a rough idea of how your system must be set up. but if you ever get caught up and have a chance a diagram of how its all hooked up would be awesome. not worried about trying to duplicate your system anymore this heating season but would like to have it set up for fall. i googled the components you used and found a great thermal-couple but have no idea what controller would be the right one, so if u could include a model, part #, or even a link would be awesome for the controller. thanks in advance



Mcmaster #3871K52 thermocouple www.mcmaster.com

Omega engineering # CN418V-R1-R2 temp controller

This temp controller also has relayed alarm output which I have utilized the low temperature alarm to open the draft door if the flue temps drop below an adjustable setting - currently have mine set to trip at 245F flue temp or lower - what I use this for is to help reduce coal build up, and I also find it reduces the incidence of "backpuffs" that tend to make the house smell like smoke. I think it also reduces the possibility of creosote build up - before I installed it I had one "Cool" burn that liquid creosote dripped out the flue exit onto the filter box - nothing since I've installed the additional control.

I can mark up a tundra wiring diagram to show how I hooked things in - if you don't see it in a month or so send me a PM to remind me...
 
This is the response I received so far from SBI.

In order to have a thorough case file, we will require some additional information. A copy of the proof of purchase. The dimensions of your residence, a description of your chimney (length and diameter) and the ducting. We will also require photos of the cracks and the environment surrounding the furnace including the duct work.