Thats because the stove is in a negative. That pan in the air flow of the unit causes the unit to suck it out and push it into the living space.
Everything Drolet Tundra - Heatmax...
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Pinny
New Member
Thank you for the add.. I hope I can bring something interesting to this group.
This is my first year with my own wood furnace! A Drolet Tundra! I have learned quite a bit from you guys already as well as some fires I have been burning. For me the beginner I have found much of the information is very useful to learn about not only the stove its self but all the variables that go with burning wood.
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DoubleB
Minister of Fire
Thanks @STIHLY DAN . Good point, I'm not sure what the best way to do it is. IIRC, we actually didn't talk about the ash pan here yet. The topic has come up a couple times, but no informative discussion yet that I recall. I think that was all on the other site. The information guide only cataloged what we've actually discussed here, so I'm not sure how to squeeze it in.
Maybe, like you say, I can edit the sticky at some point to mention the ash pan issue. I wouldn't have anything to point it to, but at least mention it. For those that have knowledge about it, please contribute at any time such as now on page 69, and we can have somewhere to direct people for important info.
IMO I wouldn't call it a "deadly start of the Tundra" seeing as it didn't cause any injury that I recall, much less death. But "a life and death issue" seems very appropriate IMO.
trx250r87
Burning Hunk
SBI sent me 3 updated ash pans early on. The first 2 arrived dented and bent.
I also received some furnace cement, a steel thimble and a couple white felt-like gaskets. I ended up just sealing the ash pan plug hole with furnace cement seeing that I never used the pan anyway.
Here is a video I posted a couple years ago of the furnace fan air coming through the ash pan area into the fire box...
Sent from my SM-G930R6 using Tapatalk
I also received some furnace cement, a steel thimble and a couple white felt-like gaskets. I ended up just sealing the ash pan plug hole with furnace cement seeing that I never used the pan anyway.
Here is a video I posted a couple years ago of the furnace fan air coming through the ash pan area into the fire box...
Sent from my SM-G930R6 using Tapatalk
Hey guys, first time poster here.
I've been following this thread for a year and finally decided to buy a Tundra from Menards. I waited until April of 2016 to be sure I received an updated model. Well it looks like they shipped old stock instead. It's serial number 1766 and if I'm reading correctly, it says made in Canada 11/25/2014. That's a date at the very bottom of the same sticker that has the serial stamped. I'm not positive that's a build date as it looks like it was printed along with the sticker while the serial appears to be added later. I looked through this thread for the last hour and still can't tell how to identify the old build vs the newer build.
Anyway, I've already had issues installing it which I didn't see addressed in this thread. The exhaust outlet is 5 7/8" ID so the 6" OD black pipe wont fit. I crimped the male side of the black pipe until it would fit, but now it has massive air gaps that would allow lots of flue gas to escape. What brand of pipe will actually fit this thing? Or is there some other way to make it fit?
I fired the unit outside upon receiving it, assuming it would be a late build date and now I suspect Menards won't exchange it. Should I call SBI and request a replacement?
I'm pretty disgusted with my experience so far and I'm hesitant to have the necessary duct work built knowing the stove will fail and have to be replaced.
I've been following this thread for a year and finally decided to buy a Tundra from Menards. I waited until April of 2016 to be sure I received an updated model. Well it looks like they shipped old stock instead. It's serial number 1766 and if I'm reading correctly, it says made in Canada 11/25/2014. That's a date at the very bottom of the same sticker that has the serial stamped. I'm not positive that's a build date as it looks like it was printed along with the sticker while the serial appears to be added later. I looked through this thread for the last hour and still can't tell how to identify the old build vs the newer build.
Anyway, I've already had issues installing it which I didn't see addressed in this thread. The exhaust outlet is 5 7/8" ID so the 6" OD black pipe wont fit. I crimped the male side of the black pipe until it would fit, but now it has massive air gaps that would allow lots of flue gas to escape. What brand of pipe will actually fit this thing? Or is there some other way to make it fit?
I fired the unit outside upon receiving it, assuming it would be a late build date and now I suspect Menards won't exchange it. Should I call SBI and request a replacement?
I'm pretty disgusted with my experience so far and I'm hesitant to have the necessary duct work built knowing the stove will fail and have to be replaced.
trx250r87
Burning Hunk
I think I used a stove pipe adapter and had some minor air gaps that I filled with high temp gasket rope.
DoubleB
Minister of Fire
Welcome to hearth, @KC Matt !
I'm fuzzy on the differences between new and old versions of the Tundra I, but look at pages 38, 48, and 50 of this thread, including some serial numbers. Search the link in my signature line for more. I think the assumption around here is that we didn't trust SBI had solved the cracking on any Tundra I. Time will tell for Tundra II.
I don't recall people having trouble with the flue collar. I can try to measure mine when I get home to see if it's the same size as yours. Have you measured your draft?
I'm fuzzy on the differences between new and old versions of the Tundra I, but look at pages 38, 48, and 50 of this thread, including some serial numbers. Search the link in my signature line for more. I think the assumption around here is that we didn't trust SBI had solved the cracking on any Tundra I. Time will tell for Tundra II.
I don't recall people having trouble with the flue collar. I can try to measure mine when I get home to see if it's the same size as yours. Have you measured your draft?
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People mentioned the firebox being welded to the face plate on the old models, and thinner material on an air deflector one one or the other, and looking at the pictures posted and at my stove, I can't tell what they are talking about.
The stove isn't hooked up currently so I haven't measured the draft. This thread is so long and I know there were instructions on how to measure it somewhere. I planned to install a manometer and a thermometer.
DoubleB
Minister of Fire
I hope so. I got my users confused, I was thinking of @Builderml 's posts on page 38. He got cracking on ser# 1993. I think it was either him or @Digger79 that are on their 2nd Tundra, after their 1st warrantied.
Either way, Builderml's cracked on a serial number later than @KC Matt 's. And, I admit I don't understand if we ever concluded around here we had a strong theory for what caused the cracking, so I'm not able to describe how/if SBI has actually fixed it.
DoubleB
Minister of Fire
Mine is on the minus side of the 6.00" mark for ID. Both vertically and horizontally. I don't have that problem, nor do I have much advice except to take @STIHLY DAN 's advice.
![[Hearth.com] Everything Drolet Tundra - Heatmax...](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/187/187180-ba1ff10ee3ae59930c74274977223ae4.jpg?hash=FvNvnD2e3B "[Hearth.com] Everything Drolet Tundra - Heatmax...")
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I think correct me if I am wrong but I have the newest (old) unit that had not had the cracking issues fully resolved. Not sure who the member is but someone just asked how they can tell if thier unit will crack or not. In this picture where I show the red arrows going to the 6 or so welds under the door are no longer b eing done on the last updated units. I think and again it's just me now that this is the answer in stopping the cracking. The last unit some had on here no longer had the welds and they had some rope caulk IIRC.
![[Hearth.com] Everything Drolet Tundra - Heatmax...](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/187/187186-e6856b84ac29cc3f787531b15f4d6674.jpg?hash=b5xLsFw3fi "[Hearth.com] Everything Drolet Tundra - Heatmax...")
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In my book if your unit has those welds and you do NOT have some type of temp controller setup you will have cracking in the near future. Hope that helps whom ever had asked.
In my book if your unit has those welds and you do NOT have some type of temp controller setup you will have cracking in the near future. Hope that helps whom ever had asked.
Do you think it would be worthwhile to use a dremel and cut those welds, or face the odds of cracking and expect a refund?
If you cut it they would probably deny a warranty claim because you modified it "and that's why it broke"
True.. well this stove is going down my stairs soon, and once it does, it isn't going back up the stairs unless its in pieces. Lol
Like Brenn said i wouldn't give SBI a reason to deny a warranty claim. With that said SBI didn't ask for any pictures of those welds when i filed the claim. They asked for inside firebox and the cracks and an overall install photo. It's really your call to make. Just keep a very close eye on those two lower corners so you can catch the crack at its very early stage. Also don't drill the crack until after warranty is done. Not sure how accurate this is but the right side cracked first for me.
Hello all, been reading through posts last couple days. Good stuff!! Probably would have cracked stove in a week of burning if I hadn't read this blog first. Gonna remove my Johnson Energy Systems j-9900 this week and install my Tundra. Tundra was built on 9/16/2014, s/n 1380. Gonna contact sbi for upgrades. Gonna try to add similar safeguards as 3fordasho did. Also a variable fan switch. Thx.
Since this morning I have moved the Omni controller from the back of the furnace to the front. and ran some new conduit. I also installed the adjustable thermodisc and have it set to 100 degrees.. The fans only kicked on a couple times and only ran maybe 10 minutes.... Thats not gonna cut it.. I have High temp insulation blankets that I am installing inside the cabinet this weekend if I have time... pics coming. I dunno why this site is such a PITA to upload pics to?
DoubleB
Minister of Fire
Sounds about right for a very small load.
I might have forgotten...what are you trying to achieve with the adjustable thermodisc? If you are replacing the fan snap disc, then it sounds like something doesn't add up, since the original snap disc is set to start the fan at 120F and stop the fan at 100F.
Can you explain this more? (what you're trying to do)? I'm not sure where you can put insulation, or where it would help, either, even if there is room. Sounds like it might be a great idea, I just don't have a picture in my mind.
Thanks for the pictures of your install, looks like a nice job. BTW, you might want to think about your wood storage. It doesn't look hard for a couple sparks to jump out when you open the door and land in your wood storage and burn the house down 15 minutes later.
DoubleB
Minister of Fire
I was curious enough to look in my manual, it says min clearance is 11" to the sides of the furnace, for example.
We're not dumping on ya, @crewchief264 . We'd just hate for something awful to happen to your house, or worse--to you and your family. And, if your insurance company is like mine, they won't insure unless it's installed according to the manual, so to rub salt in a wound you'd hate the insurance company to deny a claim on a burned down house when they find the furnace was too close to combustibles.
Maybe you'd want to identify any places that overlap the min distance to combustibles to see if there's an easy way to mitigate it. Sometimes it's just putting a sheet metal barrier in the way.
