This thread is great! Its a great place for literally "everything" drolet tundra as it says.. its great for newbies, There will always be plenty of people who don't know what they are talking about at times myself included. My self at times may think I understand things one way and speaking out helps correct yourself so long as you are open minded an openly admit you may not know everything or even what your talking about. Which I repeat often. Personally my thinking that has been incorrect has been altered several times in this manner. I think its great. If you guys want an experts only page for mods then go for it just be nice to people there's no need for rudeness. Most the people on this thread are great, are having a lot of fun and the thread is quite entertaining. Kinda thought the whole idea here is for people who don't know regardless if they think they know. The corrections are helpful so long as EVERYONE keeps and open mind. I will always listen to the voice of experience regardless of what I already know or think I now. Thanks for starting this Thread Brenndatomu I think its fantastic. If anyone is bored or annoyed with the thread then they should just leave.Maybe consider a furnace install thread, not brand specific. All furnaces need the same install for the space they are being put in. Obviously there is more than one way to skin a cat, but a tundra install will have the same rules of any other unit. Only difference would be that octopus choice of a plenum they are putting out now.
God knows its needed, Have to have a rule that if you do not know what you are talking about, you can't go all MR Know it all, giving facts and Chit.
Everything Drolet Tundra - Heatmax...
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DoubleB
Minister of Fire
I tend to agree. I'm concerned, however, that in the last several days this thread has been filled with too many updates about things that don't actually matter, to the point that those who really want to learn and share about Tundras are getting "bored or annoyed with the thread and just leaving."
At least for me, I'm losing interesting in this thread for the first time in 2 seasons. I hope we can return to content that people find interesting enough to come and share without having to wade through too many uninteresting posts.
This thread is great! Its a great place for literally "everything" drolet tundra as it says.. its great for newbies, There will always be plenty of people who don't know what they are talking about at times myself included. My self at times may think I understand things one way and speaking out helps correct yourself so long as you are open minded an openly admit you may not know everything or even what your talking about. Which I repeat often. Personally my thinking that has been incorrect has been altered several times in this manner. I think its great. If you guys want an experts only page for mods then go for it just be nice to people there's no need for rudeness. Most the people on this thread are great, are having a lot of fun and the thread is quite entertaining. Kinda thought the whole idea here is for people who don't know regardless if they think they know. The corrections are helpful so long as EVERYONE keeps and open mind. I will always listen to the voice of experience regardless of what I already know or think I now. Thanks for starting this Thread Brenndatomu I think its fantastic. If anyone is bored or annoyed with the thread then they should just leave.Maybe consider a furnace install thread, not brand specific. All furnaces need the same install for the space they are being put in. Obviously there is more than one way to skin a cat, but a tundra install will have the same rules of any other unit. Only difference would be that octopus choice of a plenum they are putting out now.
God knows its needed, Have to have a rule that if you do not know what you are talking about, you can't go all MR Know it all, giving facts and Chit.
I admit some of that was prob me. I blabber alot. i'll wrk on keeping posts a bit shorter, and more to the point. Its just hard cause all the most the folks on here r such good natured people who have a little fun on here its easy to get distracted and start joking around. I sure Dont want to ruin the thread though as its been most helpful. I see your point an myself will wrk to keep posts more tundra specific from this post on.
Got a message back from SBI re the rant that I sent them. All they said was "if it breaks we will repair or replace it, the Tundra being no exception". Absolutely no discussion of thermal stresses and expansion rates. As if a wood fire is going to get hot enough to hurt plain carbon steel without a bunch of other stuff going wrong.
If it's gonna get welding, I'm going to do it. Will have to talk to the local shop I used to work for so I can be covered by their certification.
I wonder what kind of welding standard covers stove repair welding? It's not a pressure vessel or boiler, and it's not structural, so CWB/CSA doesn't apply. It's only plain carbon steel, so really any process will work...
In other news, I checked the online Tundra manual and checked the part numbers for the fan thermoswitches. According to their Sep 2015 manual, the part number and descriptions are the exact same, except the new model is missing one item: SE66092 "L200 Thermodisc kit". Looks like one sensor sat on top of whatever that is on the old model, and they removed it in the new ones. Thoughts? Advice? Post not exciting enough? Let me know!
If it were me I'd just make sure that fan comes on early. real early before plenum gets hot. Also make sure the high limit shuts that damper before your draft can exceed -.08 on fire ups. You can go from there on controlling the flu with the temp controller but after my experiences those are the two things I would focus on. keep that stove running cool and at spec. push the heat in the house.
Those things should really keep your stove safe IMO. I own two and have been thru the warranty replacement so I have a little personal experience with this situation. That I feel honestly is the biggest fail safe SBI put in to stop the stoves from cracking. I heard on this thread you can get thermo discs from grainger.com.
I just looked the Sept 2015 manual up...the L200 is still there...#85 on the parts list. I was gonna say, that is the high limit switch, no way they can eliminate that!
I sorta messed that up..let me clarify. Both units have the same 2 sensors, 44060 Thermodisc 36T11 L200 Automatic and the 44028 Ceramic thermodisc f110-20F. On the old unit the 44060 is pictured sitting on top of a third thing, #79, "SE66092 L200 Thermodisc Kit". The Sep 2015 manual omits "SE66092 L200 Thermodisc Kit" and shows the sensor sitting directly on top of the sheet metal.
This begs the question, How have the fan and hi temp setpoints changed if the sensors haven't? (if I understand the operation of a snap disc bimetallic switch correctly)
My interpretation of the part numbers in the manual indicates they have not. I however do not understand the function of the omitted piece.
Sorry if I seem a bit pedantic about manual reading, I spend a good portion of my time scanning "g" code for any clues that our lame CAD software is about to pile up a $400K milling machine. It has made me picky in ways..
My "old" manual is dated 20 Oct 2014, for what it's worth.
Appreciate all input, in the ongoing mystery of the Tundra!
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(broken link removed to http://www.drolet.ca/en/products/wood/drolet-tundra-furnace/parts)
The above link shows the removed item 79, however now "out of stock" as it's presence was probably the result of a bad idea.
The above link shows the removed item 79, however now "out of stock" as it's presence was probably the result of a bad idea.
79 looks like some kind of shim or washer. I bet they quit using it and now with the snap switch(s) a bit closer to the HE they can activate sooner.
There has only been 2 mounting positions for the switches
1. In the back on the original units
2. Up top in the middle between the center duct connections (current)
Ahh they removed a buffering piece of steel. I heard they changed the discs on the last two. I played around w my first Tundra's snap disc for the fan. When moving the location one thing I did to slow down how quick the disc would activate an deactivate was add 1/16" thick pieces of metal between the disc an stove top. This caused the heat to take longer to turn disc on and longer for disc to turn off. More metal has to heat an cool. Removing any metal bewteen the disc and heat will cause it to fire sooner.
I truly think SBI finally did a good job of tuning the Tundra in with their latest version. I had all these controls setup to help the old one.. I am still using them on the new unit but the way they have it setup Im not really controlling much anyone. Snap discs are doing most the work. Similar to a post I read earlier on this thread where a guy opted to use snap discs to control flu and such rather than temp controller. I am quite impressed with the new unit, it heats very well, runs a long time, burns very little wood. Please to say the least.. or most. 
I had an issue with mine where I found a small hole in one of the heat exchanger tubes. They had burnt through when welding the lifting eye on. I contacted SBI and they wanted me to take it somewhere to get welded. I stated that I have the equipment and skills to do the repair myself and they were OK with that. Never asked for any certification just a picture of the repair. So I wouldn't worry too much about that.
Warms up a few days stove thread goes dead. lol. I am finding my draft of course suffers when temps hit 50 but then of course by that time I usually have let fire burn out or near it. 15' class A chimney. When temps hold near 45 or colder seems draft holds well. When temps get in to below freezing, single digits or worse with out my baro I would draft up to -.10 and even close to -.11. A few guys on here have been cranking their drafts up and squeezing down air intakes. I did not have great results with that. Ultimately it seems no matter what we do still the best result for over all heat in the house is to let the fire burn up to its full potential w out over fire and burn down. This makes sense as we are burning wood not gas. No matter how hard we try to slow the fire and keep or reserve full for heat calls, over all the house is warmer, heat last longer, more heat is driven into the house by simply letting fire burn up and down and letting temps drive up where ever. I get longer lasting heat w less fuel if I let stove drive house up to 74-76 rather than trying to keep it at 70 and save wood for later. The storing energy or coals and waiting for heat call does work better in mild temps but ultimately the results are still the same. It's just not instant fuel like gas no matter how hard we overthink it. lol well me anyhow. BTW my self I don't see a problem with the high drafts so long as intakes are choked and fire is kept at reasonable temp. Simply allowing or inducing high draft with no other control over firebox or intakes could be dangerous for stoves integrity. I AM NOT AND EXPERT THESE ARE JUST MY THOUGHTS AND EXPERIENCES!
BTW my self I don't see a problem with the high drafts so long as intakes are choked and fire is kept at reasonable temp. Simply allowing or inducing high draft with no other control over firebox or intakes could be dangerous for stoves integrity. I AM NOT AND EXPERT THESE ARE JUST MY THOUGHTS AND EXPERIENCES!
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DoubleB
Minister of Fire
Yea, that tends to happen. Kind of goes in waves.
I'm thinking along the same lines. I admit I haven't tried taking my draft over 0.06, nor have I choked the intakes. At one point I thought it could only help, since I added over temp protection. But then I got scared because if the power goes out and I'm not awake or around, I don't want any higher temps without a blower than what the manual says with 0.06 draft. That's one of the specs on the furnace that ain't broke, so I don't think I'll try to fix it.
Variable speed blower, on the other hand, is fair game for me. Parts should arrive early next week. Can't wait!
Allright, so Im sure some of you seen my earlier thread where you guys pointed me towards the Tundra.
I got an email from them today, when i asked About the tundra 2
" Our tundra/HeatMax wood furnaces have gone through re-testing to meed the new EPA regulation that will come into effect in May 2016. Both Units will now feature an electronic probe that will vary the distribution blower speed based on plenum temperature, replacing our current snap disc system. Furthermore, both units will be supplied with a rectangular plenum system (see appendix C) that will allow homeowners to quickly and properly install the unit. It will still be a DIY system, since it will allow the homeowner to use flexible ducts to distribute the heat. Instead of 4 outlet possibilities, there will now be up to 10 (with a minimum of 6). But the greatest advantage of this new system will be the reduction in the number of installations that do not meet specifications. After more than 15 visits from our engineering stadd to homeowners using either a Tundra or Heatmax furnace, we have found that the percentage of installations that did not meat the owners manual requirements was in excess of 90%. most non-conformities were related to the installation of the heat distribution ducts."
So there you have it folks. New tundra will have the plenum and a probe to vary the blower speed.
the rep also said, not to expect to see any until June. So looks like my purchase is going to be on hold for a while. I want to see the new one, and its price.
I got an email from them today, when i asked About the tundra 2
" Our tundra/HeatMax wood furnaces have gone through re-testing to meed the new EPA regulation that will come into effect in May 2016. Both Units will now feature an electronic probe that will vary the distribution blower speed based on plenum temperature, replacing our current snap disc system. Furthermore, both units will be supplied with a rectangular plenum system (see appendix C) that will allow homeowners to quickly and properly install the unit. It will still be a DIY system, since it will allow the homeowner to use flexible ducts to distribute the heat. Instead of 4 outlet possibilities, there will now be up to 10 (with a minimum of 6). But the greatest advantage of this new system will be the reduction in the number of installations that do not meet specifications. After more than 15 visits from our engineering stadd to homeowners using either a Tundra or Heatmax furnace, we have found that the percentage of installations that did not meat the owners manual requirements was in excess of 90%. most non-conformities were related to the installation of the heat distribution ducts."
So there you have it folks. New tundra will have the plenum and a probe to vary the blower speed.
the rep also said, not to expect to see any until June. So looks like my purchase is going to be on hold for a while. I want to see the new one, and its price.
I think they mis-spoke where it says "It will still be a DIY system, since it will allow the homeowner to use flexible ducts to distribute the heat." Metal flex duct would be a poor choice due to its turbulent flow characteristics, and non-metallic flex duct is NOT allowed for use as ducts for wood furnaces.
Maybe what they meant to say was that the plenum has lots of "options" to hook duct pipes to (therefore it is flexible)?? I dunno
Flex ducts are against NFPA code for wood furnaces in the US...SBI can't change that...(can they?)
You know...I think SBI is readin this thread...I make a heat shield for the front of my firebox...then they come out with their own kit...I install a blower speed control...yup, here it comes!
(and I haven't done the plenum yet, but it sure was talked about a fair amount here...they stole that too 
)
Maybe what they meant to say was that the plenum has lots of "options" to hook duct pipes to (therefore it is flexible)?? I dunno
Flex ducts are against NFPA code for wood furnaces in the US...SBI can't change that...(can they?)
You know...I think SBI is readin this thread...I make a heat shield for the front of my firebox...then they come out with their own kit...I install a blower speed control...yup, here it comes!
(and I haven't done the plenum yet, but it sure was talked about a fair amount here...they stole that too )
jb6l6gc
Minister of Fire
jb6l6gc
Minister of Fire
jb6l6gc
Minister of Fire
I am trying to get a copy of Csa b365 that is the applicable code in Canada it's hard to find a pdf for it though. Anyone have it by chance?
DoubleB
Minister of Fire
I'm still kind of fascinated by this.
1. Wouldn't DIY homeowners have just as much chance of messing up installations of other 2-outlet furnaces? I'm not aware of them cracking this much, so it still seems like something about the furnace other than the plenum needs to be more robust. (To be fair, maybe competing furnaces crack just as much but we don't hear about it.)
2. I still don't see how the new octopus plenum is going to help. Either SBI will insist people must use 6+ existing outlets and good luck selling those; or else they allow people to connect the furnace to an existing plenum or take-offs and they're still back to square one and the new system did nothing to reduce "the number of installations that do not meet specifications".
3. Many of the problems we've seen on this forum have been poor return air, which Tundra II plenum doesn't address. Again, seems the furnace should be more robust.
Oh well, I'll try to keep my orig Tundra chugging as long as I can and let this shake out.
You're correct. Canada does not allow parallel installations, or series on the Tundra's. They are not setup for series, so it's stand-alone only. In Canada, the Caddy would be approved for a series, or stand-alone install.
jb6l6gc
Minister of Fire
To me that's the biggest load of bs. Why would anyone want a wood furnace in Canada then. I would have to keep my basement over 100 degrees just to have enough heat rising to the rest of the house. I really don't understand the logic behind this. Like I said previously my insurance and wett had no issues with my hotblast hooked up in parrallel, and I plan to hook up my new heatmax the same.
DoubleB
Minister of Fire
My insurance company said they'd cover the Tundra if it was installed per the manufacturer's instructions. Your insurance company may likely do the same. If your house burns down and your furnace was installed in direct conflict to SBI's instructions, you might find yourself on your own.
Probably is inconvenient for some houses. But one option is to add a couple large registers dedicated for the Tundra. Short and large ducts. Works well for my house with more than enough airflow. I understand that might not be practical or desirable in many houses.
jb6l6gc
Minister of Fire
All my insurance asked was that it was wett certified which I did and they had no issues.
