Everything Drolet Tundra - Heatmax...

[Builderml]

Ditto here.
I wonder when they changed things...build date could mean everything. Maybe hafta get into something made in the last few months?

I was thinking the same thing about old production models still forsale. I also asked him, so whats available for purchase now is good to go. Again reply was yes.
I guess time will tell.

 

[brenndatomu]

It was early this year before I even knew of the cracking issue so probably not.

Yeah, I would think hafta get one made since this past spring at the earliest...after the "cahcah hit the fan" so to speak with a bunch of people finding cracks within a short time frame

 

[maple1]

I was thinking it was almost spring before it was really coming to light.

 

[Wisneaky]

I was thinking it was almost spring before it was really coming to light.

Yeah I just looked it was early March.

 

[Builderml]

If i again remember correctly i think serial numbers of problem units were pre 800-900 maybe 500 serial number models. At #1993 maybe they were aware of the issue made corrections or different material supplier whatever they did had been done. One can only hope.

 

[brenndatomu]

I guess time will tell

Well, if it were me (well, it was me when I installed my sisters back in the spring) I'd throw some firebrick in there just as a preventative. See my post #323 or @DoubleB s post shortly thereafter on what he did with his. Even though mine and DoubleBs were done post crackage...better to head things off IMO, unless you have an install that would be easy to swap out if they need to warranty, then meh, go for it

 

[Wisneaky]

If i again remember correctly i think serial numbers of problem units were pre 800-900 maybe 500 serial number models. At #1993 maybe they were aware of the issue made corrections or different material supplier whatever they did had been done. One can only hope.

Mine was actually low 300 serial number.

 

[maple1]

If i again remember correctly i think serial numbers of problem units were pre 800-900 maybe 500 serial number models. At #1993 maybe they were aware of the issue made corrections or different material supplier whatever they did had been done. One can only hope.

That could be possible too.

 

[brenndatomu]

I was curious to see if Drolet had the new big brother to the Tundra listed on their website yet...nope. But while I was there I looked to see if anything looked like it had changed yet on the Tundra, I looked up the parts diagram in the manual (showing a revision date of 09/09/2015) and yup, there it is, part # 72 and 73 in the diagram. The new firebricks for the front of the firebox...click for full size

 

[maple1]

I still haven't seen one of these in person - does that mean that the furnace in the pics posted on the last page of the late 2014 build (post 344) doesn't have those?

 

[brenndatomu]

I still haven't seen one of these in person - does that mean that the furnace in the pics posted on the last page of the late 2014 build (post 344) doesn't have those?

Doesn't look like it to me

 

[3fordasho]

So the question is can they be added to earlier furnaces? Who wants to call SBI and find out ? ;-)

I just installed tundra #2 in one of my outbuildings - also a later 2014 build.

I was curious to see if Drolet had the new big brother to the Tundra listed on their website yet...nope. But while I was there I looked to see if anything looked like it had changed yet on the Tundra, I looked up the parts diagram in the manual (showing a revision date of 09/09/2015) and yup, there it is, part # 72 and 73 in the diagram. The new firebricks for the front of the firebox...click for full size
View attachment 161934

 

[brenndatomu]

So the question is can they be added to earlier furnaces? Who wants to call SBI and find out ? ;-)

I just installed tundra #2 in one of my outbuildings - also a later 2014 build.

I'm sure they can...see @DoubleB s post #328 on the previous page. After I went to all the work of making a SS shield I realized that using firebrick would have actually been really simple to do and a whole lot cheaper! If I had it to do over again, (sigh) I would just get a box of the firebrick that TSC, Menards and everybody else stocks, make my own. Firebrick is very easy to cut with a diamond blade ($15) on a 4" angle grinder

 

[3fordasho]

I'm sure they can...see @DoubleB s post #328 on the previous page. After I went to all the work of making a SS shield I realized that using firebrick would have actually been really simple to do and a whole lot cheaper! If I had it to do over again, (sigh) I would just get a box of the firebrick that TSC, Menards and everybody else stocks, make my own. Firebrick is very easy to cut with a diamond blade ($15) on a 4" angle grinder

Yea, that's probably the best approach. I just compared the old vs new part listing and they changed sizing on quite a few of the firebrick so it would not be as simple as buying the new pieces up by the door. Also noticed the baffle part # changed and description went from Vermiculite to C-cast. Still gotta think that sending out some new firebrick would be cheaper than replacing cracked furnaces.

 

[brenndatomu]

I just installed tundra #2 in one of my outbuildings - also a later 2014 build.

If you were thinking of doing the firebrick mod, my advice would be to do it before you fire it the first time. It's much easier (and cleaner ) to get the existing firebrick apart before ash gets down in the cracks and kinda locks 'em together.
And as I mentioned back on page 13 (post # 323) when I went to pull mine apart there was some creosote that had worked it's way behind the ceramic insulation that is behind the firebrick on the sides, then it wouldn't go back together without cleaning the creosote out. When I tried to get the rest of the firebrick out some of them were stuck to the ceramic, and it (the ceramic) just fell apart, so I had to replace that then too. I thought about leaving it out but decided it was there for a reason so...

 

[3fordasho]

If you were thinking of doing the firebrick mod, my advice would be to do it before you fire it the first time. It's much easier (and cleaner ) to get the existing firebrick apart before ash gets down in the cracks and kinda locks 'em together.
And as I mentioned back on page 13 (post # 323) when I went to pull mine apart there was some creosote that had worked it's way behind the ceramic insulation that is behind the firebrick on the sides, then it wouldn't go back together without cleaning the creosote out. When I tried to get the rest of the firebrick out some of them were stuck to the ceramic, and it (the ceramic) just fell apart, so I had to replace that then too. I thought about leaving it out but decided it was there for a reason so...

Understood - Good thing I didn't have that break in fire last night ;-) Did get my flue temp monitoring all set up like I did on my first install.
I'll do the firebrick mod on this new one but the other stays like it is.. if it cracks - well that is what the warranty is for... Sad part is this new one is super easy to get out if necessary - the other, well that's in the basement.

 

[brenndatomu]

Sad part is this new one is super easy to get out if necessary

It does usually seem to work that way doesn't?!

 

[DoubleB]

I did notice a change. If you look at post #328 (he is installing firebrick in the front. above the door the metal on mine goes from firebrick to firebrick. where his looks like it stops just past the door so he had room to run the firebrick up to the top along side the metal.

I think you're right that your front baffle is wider than mine, but it looks like maybe 1/2" or so on each side. Similar to the other responses, I agree that the wider baffle is going to be of little help. Firebrick or equivalent against the front is the better solution.

I still view SBI overall favorably since they stood behind their product very well for me, but that's diminishing. I really don't believe much of what they say anymore. Doesn't mean they don't have good products or support; just that I encourage you to be very skeptical of any statements they give you. Many people have asked, we still haven't heard an actual answer for the cause or solution for the cracking, other than to blame a multitude of operators, yet they promise it's fixed. That's the same thing you heard and by your pictures it's clearly not fixed.

Anyways, I'll let you be the judge. Since you already are in progress I'd install the firebrick on the front before you use it and you'll probably be fine.

 

[brenndatomu]

I think you're right that your front baffle is wider than mine, but it looks like maybe 1/2" or so on each side

Same PL66012 part # on all of them...

 

[3fordasho]

Tundra install #2 - this one installed in a 40x60' quonset style building- furnace is in a small office - heat ducts dump into the open area- the radiant is plenty to heat the office area.

 

[STIHLY DAN]

That will work a lot better if you tie the return into the heated space. Be a lot less dangerous and conform to the installation instructions, They may not honor the warranty with an incorrect installation.

 

[brenndatomu]

You do the brick mod already? @3fordasho ?

 

[DoubleB]

Gosh, you just try to post a couple nice pics and then all the feedback starts coming. So I'll give mine...

Did you make the stand for the Tundra's dimensions, or did you luck out with one that already fit? Curious about the wheels--I assume they lock in place, but how often do you plan to relocate this furnace? Just don't relocate it into a cargo trailer...

Also, how do you plan to replace the filter? Looks like you'll have to unscrew the filter kit each time. Had you considered mounting it on the rear of the blower box so you could pull the filter towards your entry door handle?

 

[3fordasho]

I made the stand to fit. The wheels also have jack screws that allow about .5" rise, the wheels only touch when the screws are all the way retracted. My flue wall thimble is 45" high, a match for the max caddy which has the highest flue exit I could find- I didn't want the lower exit height of the tundra to lock me into only using a tundra in the future. A caddy, max caddy or either Kuuma could be made to work with the appropriate spacing off the floor. I don't plan on moving it - I was just going to use some adjustable leveling feet but these happened to be laying around in the scrap bin at work.

good suggestion for the filter kit, I am considering moving it to the other side and then ducting thru the wall into the same room the hot air ducts are venting into.

Gosh, you just try to post a couple nice pics and then all the feedback starts coming. So I'll give mine...

Did you make the stand for the Tundra's dimensions, or did you luck out with one that already fit? Curious about the wheels--I assume they lock in place, but how often do you plan to relocate this furnace? Just don't relocate it into a cargo trailer...

Also, how do you plan to replace the filter? Looks like you'll have to unscrew the filter kit each time. Had you considered mounting it on the rear of the blower box so you could pull the filter towards your entry door handle?

 

[3fordasho]

You do the brick mod already? @3fordasho ?

I did but not to the extent you or others have, I simply cut two L shaped pieces and placed them as shown in the attached pic.
I figure my flue temp monitoring keeps firebox temps under control so I'm less likely to have cracking issues.