Smoke Signals
Burning Hunk
But if it lasts 30, you can sell it after 15 and re-coup some of the money. Can't sell one which is junk
Maybe not but I can sell it after five years and re-coop some money and buy something better!
Everything Drolet Tundra - Heatmax...
- Thread starter brenndatomu
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Maybe not but I can sell it after five years and re-coop some money and buy something better!
JRHAWK9
Minister of Fire
You know dang well salesmen will stretch the truth. It's like asking how many sexual partners a person has had....double whatever a women tells you and half whatever a guy says.
well, so far it seems a lot of them can't make it a year....so lets shoot for two before getting too far ahead.
JRHAWK9
Minister of Fire
I chuckle when I see "lifetime" warranties. The question I always have is, who's lifetime? If the item breaks at 2 years, it's lifetime has technically expired, therefore the warranty may have too. Most people automatically think a lifetime warranty relates to their own lifetime, which may not always be the case.
Wisneaky
Minister of Fire
I wonder how much that computerized damper costs on the kuuma? I see they only warranty electrical items for 90 days. When that stops working it's probably half the cost of the furnace. They may have a 25 year warranty on the furnace but a lot of stuff is excluded and if there is a crack the owner must pay shipping costs back to the factory so it can be fixed. At least when my Tundra cracked I received a refund and got to keep my original furnace.
maple1
Minister of Fire
Hope this thread doesn't get wrecked by the unnecessary sidetracking & non-Tundra 'input'. It has lots of potential. Good luck guys.
TheBigIron
Feeling the Heat
I was hoping that we all could get back on track like brenndatomu had suggested in post #1 like no product bashing and so on and so forth. All Tundra owners need input from others so we can resolve issues and give ideas to others.. Thanks... I put my Tundra in the basement last week and waiting until weather warms up to start my install...
That blows, I learn something everyday. So is a 15 year warranty actually better than a lifetime warranty? I know if I was comparing two identical units at the same price I would have chose the one with the lifetime warranty over the 15.
JRHAWK9
Minister of Fire
Lifetime warranties vary from state to state, each has their own limitations. As far as SBI, refunding the purchase price may be easier than a direct replacement if there is a problem with the design. Just like cars, things like this happen. It sucks for the consumer, but I'm sure in one way or another the company will help out those dealing with the problems. It sounds like they are doing just that. Yeah a lifetime warranty is good, but like mentioned when new technology comes out and there's better things, I'm not going to want what I have now. Our furnace paid for itself the first few months and has saved us thousands.
JRHAWK9
Minister of Fire
After rebates and tax insentives, around 1200.00. I lucked out, it was renamed and the store only had a couple left.
That was one hell of a deal. I love a good deal. Mine was a year on ROI, but that year oil was $3.95 gal.
Just bouncin ideas around in muh head...since the high limit switch closes the damper door, I wonder how well it would work to replace the high limit switch with an adjustable snap switch like some guys are doing for the fan control switch? I know it wouldn't be as good as the temp controller with a sensor right into the flue, but it would be quick n easy (less wiring for those who are wiring adverse) and with the adjustability of the switch I bet you could get things dialed in pretty good. Heck, you could almost lower it down to within a few degrees higher that the fan switch cut-in temp. You wouldn't have the ability to open the damper to burn down coals like with the temp controller either...but still, maybe an idea for some folks, the price is right too.
At this point I am thinking that I'm gonna go the temp controller route on my sisters Tundra install...
At this point I am thinking that I'm gonna go the temp controller route on my sisters Tundra install...
DoubleB
Minister of Fire
I've been contemplating something like that the last couple days. Since I don't know how long I'll have this Tundra, I want to keep my investment minimal. I'm thinking of using the screwholes for the ashtray under the loading door, and making an adjustable bracket that bolts in there and reaches to different parts of the front face of the furnace. Put a snap disk in the bracket. I'm looking at a 350 open 310 close.
This morning I used my IR thermometer to map out the temps on the front face during a burn, but had to leave before coaling. More measurements to take. But I'm optimistic that I can find a spot where the temp will be above 350 with the damper closed, but cool enough to stay closed in order to burn long enough to get the secondaries going, and also cool enough during early coaling. Then, put a timer and my wall thermostat in parallel, both in series with the 310/350 snap disk. Primary control would be by keeping thermostat low enough, but once to coaling the snap disk would be closed and let the damper open to burn off coals.
I was surprised how quickly the face of the furnace changed temp when I opened/closed the damper, so there might be enough responsiveness to make it work well.
I'll post results if I do it.
JRHAWK9
Minister of Fire
I bought a Sestos temp controller on aliexpress, as i'm not a rush on receiving it.... paid 45$ free shipping including the controller and the temp probe. It is in Celcius, but in Canada we are used to it :- P
Still not sure what i'm going to do with it, maybe flue temp alarm or only a plenum temp reading with the controller more visible from upstair (furnace far in the basement)... at this price I will sure have some fun playing with it. I will install it in a small cabinet including a 30 minutes timer and a On/Off/Auto select switch controlling the damper.
DoubleB
Minister of Fire
Gosh, the more I think about it, this is the way for me to go. Great idea, Brenndatomu, I'm stopping after work to see if I can pick up an adjustable snap disk. Super easy and inexpensive experiment. And, I think it should work well to burn off coals, if you use your thermostat to do that, since my fan usually doesn't run 100% when burning coals, which means the snap disk would be closed to enable the tstat.
Thanks, I seen 'em on fleabay but they are $10-15 more there. Looks like the reviews are not bad on amazon
I just had something occur to me, I wonder how many people that have had cracks have also had the damper door linkage hang up on them at one point in time? See where I going here?
It hangs open and...that could be an automatic overheat no matter if the damper control motor is powered up or not...may be time to pool some stats again.
Heck, you may not even know if it hangs up on ya, if it happens in the middle of the night or when you are gone. And it may only take one good hot run to start the crack, then it's all downhill from there once it's started
This may also explain why Tundras are cracking and not Caddys, different damper motor/linkage setup
It hangs open and...that could be an automatic overheat no matter if the damper control motor is powered up or not...may be time to pool some stats again.
Heck, you may not even know if it hangs up on ya, if it happens in the middle of the night or when you are gone. And it may only take one good hot run to start the crack, then it's all downhill from there once it's started
This may also explain why Tundras are cracking and not Caddys, different damper motor/linkage setup
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bpwelding2005
Member
well to the "best of my knowledge" my damper has not hung up in the open or even partially open position mine likes to get stuck closed and not open. but my dads would stick open and that was never a good thing.
No cracks but mine does hang up once in a while - I need to investigate further but I've loosened the two screws holding the flap and it seemed to help for a while. I tend to watch it on reloads to make sure it is closed for the hot part of the burn, if it opens 1/2 way through the burn or later there is not enough fuel left to cause a problem. All the controls/limits in the world don't help if the flap mechanically sticks open :-/
I honestly believe the lack of cracking on the Caddy is due to the false front, and the open plenum. I'm sure there's also a lag between a snapdisc and a limit control probe.
DoubleB
Minister of Fire
My furnace cracked and my damper used to hang up about half the time about 3/16" open (a couple months ago I adjusted it and it always closes now). However, I don't think the failure to completely close caused overheat in my case. When it would happen, my damper was still more closed than Wisneaky's damper that uses the improvement kit SBI sent him (last picture of post #31).
However, the hang up I experienced is certainly not by design and is therefore uncontrolled, so I'm sure it's possible for a damper to stay open more fully in other furnaces...
However, the hang up I experienced is certainly not by design and is therefore uncontrolled, so I'm sure it's possible for a damper to stay open more fully in other furnaces...
