Englander 25-pdvc Problem

[wyld byll]

Try a local auto parts store. Exhaust system adapter. View attachment 64769

good idea. I may try to use a section of 3 inch flexible duct hose (the rigid type) and cut a slit in it, use a hose clamp and seal any gaps with foil tape. I think it would be ok as long as it is sealed good

 

[stoveguy2esw]

I noticed today that there is still an awful smell after the 3rd burn. There is air coming out of the blower housing in back. Is this normal? Not coming out the appliance adapter or pipe but the actual motor housing. Also the door was stuck shut today had to pull hard and the rope gasket was sticking to stove. I dont think it messed it up too bad but this cant be normal. I remember the very first time I fired it up a little smoke came out where the fan blows out the air before the fan even came on. Normal?Also I fired it up at 8-8 setting for an hour and then set it to 4-8. Went and checked 15 minutes later and the flame seemed to look the same in both settings. I am starting to think there may be a problem with stove. I know this is a lot of questions, and I will call tech support but wanted your opinion. Thanks!

sounds like its not "cooked" all the way out, pellet stoves sometimes take longer than woodstoves as eevrything doesnt get all that hot in the first fire like a wood box does. the gasket sticking to the door is also somthing that can happen if it wasnt all the way cured in, new one should be on the way anyway. the smoke out the vent in the first fire is common, its the smoke from cooking out building in the blower chamber being expelled by that first blast of air.

as for the comment on air speeding up in teh combustion chamber i am not sure what this refers to, the "blower speed" is room air only , does not affect combustion air, boosting the LBA may help but only in the lower ranges. now a tall lazierflame does denote low combustion air, until we get that nailed down do NOt go to "c" mode, it will make the burn worse. adding an OAK may well solve this issue

 

[wyld byll]

sounds like its not "cooked" all the way out, pellet stoves sometimes take longer than woodstoves as eevrything doesnt get all that hot in the first fire like a wood box does. the gasket sticking to the door is also somthing that can happen if it wasnt all the way cured in, new one should be on the way anyway. the smoke out the vent in the first fire is common, its the smoke from cooking out building in the blower chamber being expelled by that first blast of air.

as for the comment on air speeding up in teh combustion chamber i am not sure what this refers to, the "blower speed" is room air only , does not affect combustion air, boosting the LBA may help but only in the lower ranges. now a tall lazierflame does denote low combustion air, until we get that nailed down do NOt go to "c" mode, it will make the burn worse. adding an OAK may well solve this issue

appreciate the input. I'm hooking up the oak this weekend (hopefully). I specifically asked him if the LBA would only affect the lower 2 settings as I have read on this forum, and he assured me that this is not correct. Said it affects the stove in all heat range settings. I did read on here some where that the new ones do respond to LBA setting on all temp settings. I'm confused as to what to believe. Hopefully I can get the fresh air hooked up on Saturday and crank it up. If I do and the fire is a little lazy, Do you think it would be ok to set the LBA up to 5 or 6? Also should the flame only be an inch or two higher than the burn pot? I thought my flame was agressive but it is higher than that and I'm not really sure just how aggressive the flame should be. Thanks everyone for all your input!

 

[stoveguy2esw]

appreciate the input. I'm hooking up the oak this weekend (hopefully). I specifically asked him if the LBA would only affect the lower 2 settings as I have read on this forum, and he assured me that this is not correct. Said it affects the stove in all heat range settings. I did read on here some where that the new ones do respond to LBA setting on all temp settings. I'm confused as to what to believe. Hopefully I can get the fresh air hooked up on Saturday and crank it up. If I do and the fire is a little lazy, Do you think it would be ok to set the LBA up to 5 or 6? Also should the flame only be an inch or two higher than the burn pot? I thought my flame was agressive but it is higher than that and I'm not really sure just how aggressive the flame should be. Thanks everyone for all your input!

i'll see if i can get a short video of an agressive flame on my blackberry post it on twitter for ya if i can figure out how follow @xarmynsdq or i may be able to capture it at home on my PC and post it, havent tried with video yet so no promises. im burning pdv's tomorrow but i might can throw a "c model" in the trailer if i can make a slot for it.

if the flame looks tall and darker orange you will want to boost the LBA take it up to whatever it takes, ive boosted it for basement installs in the past due to longer OAK as for actual height, depends on several variables, fuel, heat range etc.

 

[wyld byll]

i'll see if i can get a short video of an agressive flame on my blackberry post it on twitter for ya if i can figure out how follow @xarmynsdq or i may be able to capture it at home on my PC and post it, havent tried with video yet so no promises. im burning pdv's tomorrow but i might can throw a "c model" in the trailer if i can make a slot for it.

if the flame looks tall and darker orange you will want to boost the LBA take it up to whatever it takes, ive boosted it for basement installs in the past due to longer OAK as for actual height, depends on several variables, fuel, heat range etc.

thanks Mike - one more thing I'm having a heck of a time trying to find some kind of coupler to be able to increase to a 3 inch intake hose. Any ideas? I don't think an auto exhaust adapter will work and cant find anything. Thinking of making 4 slits in the end of rigid aluminum flex hose and puting on hose clamp and seal with foil tape. What are your thoughts? They say I need to have 3 inch for basement install

 

[stoveguy2esw]

thanks Mike - one more thing I'm having a heck of a time trying to find some kind of coupler to be able to increase to a 3 inch intake hose. Any ideas? I don't think an auto exhaust adapter will work and cant find anything. Thinking of making 4 slits in the end of rigid aluminum flex hose and puting on hose clamp and seal with foil tape. What are your thoughts? They say I need to have 3 inch for basement install

if ya cant find a coupler, take the 3 inch flex, cut about a 4 to 5 inch slit in it then fold one end over the other in a cone shape then clamp it on and seal the seam. check the local "pep boys, or custom type auto shops wher ethe kids go and get their "large tailpipes to make their cars loud" they usually have "aggressive" expanders

 

[begreen]

It is much easier to move cool dense air than warm (lighter) air. Instead of trying to point the stove toward the cellar door (which could be a real challenge in some installations) try this. Put a simple table fan at the top of the stairway, on the floor, pointing downward. Run the fan on low speed. If you put a thermometer at the top of the doorway you should see a fairly noticeable temperature increase with this method.

Of course, the best solution is to use the stove as intended, that is as an area heater. Put the stove where you want the heat for the best comfort and often, reduced fuel consumption.

 

[imacman]

.....the best solution is to use the stove as intended, that is as an area heater. Put the stove where you want the heat for the best comfort and often, reduced fuel consumption.

Bingo.

 

[wyld byll]

It is much easier to move cool dense air than warm (lighter) air. Instead of trying to point the stove toward the cellar door (which could be a real challenge in some installations) try this. Put a simple table fan at the top of the stairway, on the floor, pointing downward. Run the fan on low speed. If you put a thermometer at the top of the doorway you should see a fairly noticeable temperature increase with this method.

Of course, the best solution is to use the stove as intended, that is as an area heater. Put the stove where you want the heat for the best comfort and often, reduced fuel consumption.

yea all the "experts" at the box stores don't describe these as glorified space heaters. Who knows... My house is only 1297 sg ft. It may work out ok - might just have to run it steady on low and give it a day or two to really get things heated up. Seems like its putting out pretty hot air now, just that the weather has been warm through the day so I really wont be able to test it out until next fall. It did raise the temp about 6 degrees in the basement in about an hour and a half on setting 5. If i can run it steady on 2 or 3 and keep the furnace from kicking on too much it may well serve the purpose. If not back to the "beast" and burn real wood