Drying in 4-row stacks

maple1

Minister of Fire
Sep 15, 2011
9,917
Nova Scotia
My thought is, they are also exposed to open air and sheltered by the roof. So should last a long time. As long as they are off the ground at the bottom. No doubt PT would last longer though.
 

Ashful

Minister of Fire
Mar 7, 2012
14,890
Philadelphia
Good argument, you might be right, but the world will never know! I submitted the lumber order last night. Base and uprights are PT, everything overhead is fir.
 

Poindexter

Minister of Fire
Jun 28, 2014
2,063
Fairbanks, Alaska
Chemicals in pressure treated lumber are poisonous to catalytic combustors.

Been in my shop getting ready for that four letter word that stats with an S, sorry for late entry. Wood that has good airflow on all sides should be able to get wet and dry out and get wet and dry out through several hundred cycles. Think shaker shed or Old Ship Church in Hingham, Mass.

For mine I did ground contact PT for the floor framing, then a double layer of plastic, then regular plywood flooring.
 

Ashful

Minister of Fire
Mar 7, 2012
14,890
Philadelphia
I suspect you have less an issue with wood boring insects than we do down here, Poindexter. Even my white oak pallets succumb after just five years as wood cribs, there’s no way framing lumber would give me the kind of lifetime I need.

I went non-PT for everything overhead, which I know means I’ll be battling the carpenter bees every summer. But going non-PT on those components saves me a few $100’s, a few hundred pounds, makes the roof sheathing easier (one man operation), and means I can use some of the thousands of regular iridite roofing nails I already have.
 

mar13

Member
Nov 5, 2018
161
Humboldt coast, California
"But going non-PT on those components saves me a few $100’s, a few hundred pounds, makes the roof sheathing easier "

I always think of wet vs dry wood weights with firewood, but I never thought of applying that thought to PT wood. Learn something new every day... https://roofonline.com/weight-of-pressure-treated-lumber
 

Ashful

Minister of Fire
Mar 7, 2012
14,890
Philadelphia
"But going non-PT on those components saves me a few $100’s, a few hundred pounds, makes the roof sheathing easier "

I always think of wet vs dry wood weights with firewood, but I never thought of applying that thought to PT wood. Learn something new every day... https://roofonline.com/weight-of-pressure-treated-lumber
Yeah. These lumber racks will weight roughly 3200 lb. when first built, and I'll be loading them up with another 20,000 lb. of oak. That'll make a dent in the earth, sitting there for three years, if anything can.

By the time the firewood and the racks are dried, we'll be down from 23,000 lb. to roughly 16,000 lb.
 

Sawset

Minister of Fire
Feb 14, 2015
507
Palmyra, WI
Yeah. These lumber racks will weight roughly 3200 lb. when first built, and I'll be loading them up with another 20,000 lb. of oak. That'll make a dent in the earth, sitting there for three years, if anything can.

By the time the firewood and the racks are dried, we'll be down from 23,000 lb. to roughly 16,000 lb.
Lay down a dozen 8x16 patio pavers under each one. I built a good sized shed, 14x20, built on a set of 8x8 beams, underlain with patio blocks as footings, with a deep gravel base. It's not sinking or floating away, plenty of frost and rain.
 

Ashful

Minister of Fire
Mar 7, 2012
14,890
Philadelphia
I'm on the edge of wetlands and violating my property line set backs, so likely no gravel base here. But I do plan to put fifteen 16" round pavers under each unit. That's 7 psi initial load, if I remember my math right. I haven't checked as to whether that's high or low for my soil conditions, tho.
 

Ashful

Minister of Fire
Mar 7, 2012
14,890
Philadelphia
Update, according to [1], it appears I should be okay. I have to admit, I haven't don't much research to understand what this means, and I'm not a structural engineer, but a quick glance at this table indicates my anticipated loading is only half of the softest soil type listed. I'm at 23,000 lb / (15 x 1.4 sq.ft.) = 1100 lb/sq.ft.

I'm on the edge of wetlands, so our soil is likely toward the bottom of that list.

Soil Bearing Capacities
Class of MaterialsLoad-Bearing Pressure
(pounds per square foot)
Crystalline bedrock
12,000​
Sedimentary rock
6,000​
Sandy gravel or gravel
5,000​
Sand, silty sand, clayey sand, silty gravel, and clayey gravel
3,000​
Clay, sandy clay, silty clay, and clayey silt
2,000​
Source: Table 401.4.1; CABO One- and Two- Family Dwelling Code; 1995.

[1] - https://www.concretenetwork.com/concrete/footing_fundamentals/why_soils_matter.htm
 

Sawset

Minister of Fire
Feb 14, 2015
507
Palmyra, WI
Not that your probably too worried about things sinking out of sight, but a couple observations:
Son inlaw has several campgrounds along the fox river. Central Wisconsin, all deep sand and silt, near flood planes. When I said I was pouring footings for the shed here, he mentioned that in 50yrs, they hadn't poured a footing yet for a non permanent structure. Cabins, trailers, decks etc, 100s. Got me thinking. The worst that can happen is frost heaves, saturated soil subsides, the beams below even the load, in the end it evens out back to square one.
There are buildings down the road from here that were built 100 years ago. Been driving by them long time, yet just now realized they were built on shallow piers with beams. They look no worse for wear as far as straight and level. Storage sheds doing what they do.
 
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Ashful

Minister of Fire
Mar 7, 2012
14,890
Philadelphia
Exactly. I’m doing this on “shallow piers” as well, essentially 16” round piers poured on grade, no digging.
 
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johneh

Minister of Fire
Dec 19, 2009
2,259
Eastern Ontario
I live in Eastern Ontario Canada. We have built 5 15 X 25
sheads the foundation we use is a 30 x30 2 ft. deep hole
filled with crushed stone and a 24-inch paver set on top.
Our frost line normally is 4 Ft. never had a frost heave
in all the sheds we have built
 
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