Drolet Myriad: Installation and Review

[Huntindog1]

You know I was thinking that today this stove is a big split kind of stove

 

[begreen]

Yep, big boys like 6-9" splits. But keep splitting some smaller ones for fillers and starting fires.

 

[tekguy]

My soot eater finally shower up, cleaned chimney for first time, thin coating of the bad stuff, didn't get much out, maybe a coffee can total.. I suspect this is from earlier on when I wasn't burning hot enough

The soot eater made it simple, got most off.. I am going to get some Rutland or tsp and check again in a week or so

 

[KindredSpiritzz]

coffee cans quite a bit i think.

 

[tekguy]

coffee cans quite a bit i think.

I don't even think it would have filled one, wasn't much.. I let it fall onto cardboard on the ground then dumped in the woods so never really measured.. 1/2 would be better, it didn't really pile up or anything on the cardboard...



Well unless you measure the 1/2 can that got in my hair lol

 

[HotCoals]

I don't even think it would have filled one, wasn't much.. I let it fall onto cardboard on the ground then dumped in the woods so never really measured.. 1/2 would be better, it didn't really pile up or anything on the cardboard...



Well unless you measure the 1/2 can that got in my hair lol

None the less you are on top of it Mike and that's great.
I usually get around a coffee can full once a year.
How was your screen?

 

[tekguy]

None the less you are on top of it Mike and that's great.
I usually get around a coffee can full once a year.
How was your screen?

It wasn't clogged but its clean now.. The bottom side of the cap was gunky

 

[HotCoals]

It wasn't clogged but its clean now.. The bottom side of the cap was gunky

Well with all your pipe being outside you're wise to check and clean like you did.
Mines all inside except above the roof,but burning a cat stove so I do get some no matter how great the wood is.

 

[Huntindog1]

Man this stove takes alot of wood. Once you get above those fire brick your loading against the metal sides and metal back wall which means its wider and deeper above the bricks so its like taking more wood than I thought it would.

 

[begreen]

I rarely load above the bricks and then more toward the center than the edges.

 

[Hardrockmaple]

From the owners manual:

For optimal operation of your wood stove, we recommend you to operate it with a wood load
approximately equivalent to the height of fire bricks.

I find my stove burns its best when I keep the wood at or just above the fire brick line.

 

[tekguy]

Man this stove takes alot of wood. Once you get above those fire brick your loading against the metal sides and metal back wall which means its wider and deeper above the bricks so its like taking more wood than I thought it would.

I usually load even to the top of the firebrick on the sides and then I might add 1 or 2 in the middle that would be above.. that would be a longer hot fire

 

[Fi-Q]

That firebox can really takes a lot of wood. I was able to get more than 8 hours burns with soft wood only ( larch) if I picked jp the right split to fill thing thing up like it would be a tetris game.....

I only get smoke when the fire is smoldering. I do open my by pass everytime.... But don't get me wrong , it can vey well be a house issue. New construction super tight, and I haven't install my air exchanger yet, so the house is usually underpressure, wich dosen't help with some.... And if I let it die and the flue get cold, I need to get the cheminy warm cause its suckig air from the cheminy....
But i do love the stove....

 

[KindredSpiritzz]

I wonder if there would be any benefit to adding another row (horizontally) of fire brick on top of the existing brick in the fire box?

 

[Huntindog1]

Last night 20 degrees here, Loaded the stove at 10pm , almost pack it full with some large splits maybe could have gotten one more split in the stove.

Woke up at 3am it was 78 upstairs. I left the input air open like 1" , figured the large splits could use a little more air. I am used to it being around 70 with the other stove I had.

I can leave the air open 1/2 inch on the adjust rod that goes in and out. I put black marks on the rod so I know how much open it is in reference with the outter front edge of the ash lip on the front of the stove. I cant close the air all the way or it will eventually snuff the fire.

So the stove can crank out some heat for sure.

 

[Huntindog1]

I wonder if there would be any benefit to adding another row (horizontally) of fire brick on top of the existing brick in the fire box?

You could not sure how you would retain them from moving or falling? This would basically make your firebox more insulated get easier firebox temps but less radiant heat from the stove. But with the 3.1 cu ft box you may have excess capacity anyways.

This stove radiates out the sides as hot as it radiates out the front.

 

[tekguy]

well finally into what I would say is 24X7 heating here in western mass, been pretty warm so I have been saving the wood for colder days - dont think the 3 cord i have will get me all the way through - I am into nice and dry mixed hardwoods - mostly oak at this point - no surprises and lets see what I learn new this season

warm in here

 

[Huntindog1]

How much are your pushing in the primary air control or how far are you leaving it open as the space behind the knob.

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[tekguy]

these things react very well to changes in position on the primary air control... once its hot and everything has a good char I only leave it open 1/2" give or take

my experience to get burn tubes going, got to have dry wood, hot stove and a hot coal base,load it with a full load and that seems to be the trick - from a cold start or a reload with very little coals left it seems tough to get much secondary action.. I don't think these stoves are big on secondary action anyways but they must be working as when I am burning there is no smoke from the chimney.

 

[Huntindog1]

these things react very well to changes in position on the primary air control... once its hot and everything has a good char I only leave it open 1/2" give or take

my experience to get burn tubes going, got to have dry wood, hot stove and a hot coal base,load it with a full load and that seems to be the trick - from a cold start or a reload with very little coals left it seems tough to get much secondary action.. I don't think these stoves are big on secondary action anyways but they must be working as when I am burning there is no smoke from the chimney.

I found the same thing , dry wood , full load, hot stove , on a good hot coal base. As no worry on over fire on these as the air control works great to control the fire.

 

[tekguy]

update - 2 years later and burning with this thing is second nature - full loads of largish splits = lots of heat and easy reloads 8 hours later - stove has never over-fired or tried to go uncontrollably nuclear on me - air control works great and I generally have it between 1/2-1" out (1" if I am around and trying to get more heat, 1/2" for longer burns - at 1/2" out it just kind of cruises along with no worries)

 

[Huntindog1]

Same here , the stove is very easy to operate and very controllable. No over fires here.
With the bypass on this stove it makes startups easier. Stove in my opinion is the best
happy medium between stoves of yesteryear and the newer type secondary burn stoves.
As it radiates heat exceptionally extra well since the fire box isnt completely lined with fire brick
and it has a stainless steel baffle plate that conducts heat up to the top surface of the stove.

 

[Bigsby]

As it radiates heat exceptionally extra well since the fire box isnt completely lined with fire brick
and it has a stainless steel baffle plate that conducts heat up to the top surface of the stove.

I have a friend that's interested in getting the Myriad but the stove has been redisigned and renamed Myriad II. It now has an added layer of firebrick up the sides and burn tubes vs. a baffle plate. How different do you think the new stove will behave compared to the old design?

 

[tekguy]

I have a friend that's interested in getting the Myriad but the stove has been redisigned and renamed Myriad II. It now has an added layer of firebrick up the sides and burn tubes vs. a baffle plate. How different do you think the new stove will behave compared to the old design?

couldn't answer - but I love the the baffle plate n the old model- no worries of breaking anything when I load it up full or jam something in (and I mean jam since I dont have to worry about hitting tubes or the fiber board stuff)

(edit - I see you have one so you know what I mean LOL)

 

[Huntindog1]

The Myriad II burns more efficiently. It most likely doesnt radiate heat like the old one.
But since it has the added heat from burning more efficiently maybe off set that.
The new design will get secondary flames easier since the heat will build up in the firebox easier.

You might check your local Menards they may still have an old one in the warehouse.