Drolet Myriad: Installation and Review

[tekguy]

The micore wasn't necessary but I wanted to overbuild for safety and future upgradeability options

 

[NVHunter]

Nice It's great fire insulation correct? I'm thinking of lining the inside of my chimney chase with it or Duroc.

What do you suggest? I just want a little more piece of mind.

Also, I am very curious about the air stone you used. Called Lowes today to see how much it runs per square foot and how heavy it is. The guy at the pro desk told me Lowes is no longer carrying Air Stone...

So who sells it then... Looks like good stuff too!

 

[tekguy]

Nice It's great fire insulation correct? I'm thinking of lining the inside of my chimney chase with it or Duroc.

What do you suggest? I just want a little more piece of mind.

Also, I am very curious about the air stone you used. Called Lowes today to see how much it runs per square foot and how heavy it is. The guy at the pro desk told me Lowes is no longer carrying Air Stone...

So who sells it then... Looks like good stuff too!

The chimney chase, I don't know, if you found enough then it wouldn't hurt

I got the air stone at my local Lowes and the last time I was there they still had it, just a few weeks back

 

[NVHunter]

Yea I need about 75 square feet to line the inside of the chase with the micore. It's not a very large chase, 10 feet tall, 36" wide and 18" thick.

I'll look into trying to find a cheap source for it. As for the air rock, not sure what to do about that.

How much does it weight per square foot do you think?

 

[tekguy]

Yea I need about 75 square feet to line the inside of the chase with the micore. It's not a very large chase, 10 feet tall, 36" wide and 18" thick.

I'll look into trying to find a cheap source for it. As for the air rock, not sure what to do about that.

How much does it weight per square foot do you think?

Its alot lighter then actual stone, but I don't know. It can be damaged though if you hit it




Some more video action

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[HotCoals]

I can feel the heat way over here Mike!
Looks like you're getting it down nicely!

 

[realstihl]

That sucker is a crankin. I agree, I can feel the hat from here.

 

[NVHunter]

Emailed air stone. They said they recommend 18 inches of clearance between the wood stove and airstone.

With my install I cannot do 18 inches there's not enough room. Guess I'll have to stick with natural stone veneer.

 

[tekguy]

One month in and for the first time I woke up this am after having reloaded about 1030 last night without enough coals to relight, the stove was still warm and flue temp around 160 but it was for all intensive purposes out, very little coals left. That would be at 6AM so 7.5 hours later. In general with a full load around 1030 and the primary air just open a little i make it to 6 am with a decent amount of hot coals and easy refire, with flue temps in the 240-300 zone

 

[Hardrockmaple]

One month in and for the first time I woke up this am after having reloaded about 1030 last night without enough coals to relight, the stove was still warm and flue temp around 160 but it was for all intensive purposes out, very little coals left. That would be at 6AM so 7.5 hours later. In general with a full load around 1030 and the primary air just open a little i make it to 6 am with a decent amount of hot coals and easy refire, with flue temps in the 240-300 zone

Tall flue? Soft wood?

I always have lots of coals after 8-9 hrs., I've had enough coals after 12 hrs. to just throw in a few sticks of maple, open damper and door and away she goes.

 

[tekguy]

Tall flue? Soft wood?

I always have lots of coals after 8-9 hrs., I've had enough coals after 12 hrs. to just throw in a few sticks of maple, open damper and door and away she goes.

I normally do too even on the weekends when I don't get up to reload till about 8 (so 9 hours) - last night I think it was just the log selection

Very important to note that I dont shut it down all the way at night as I have a drafty house and I want to push for more heat

I am burning mixed hard woods with 15" chimney outside the house and 6-7ft double wall stove pipe

 

[Hardrockmaple]

I normally do too even on the weekends when I don't get up to reload till about 8 (so 9 hours) - last night I think it was just the log selection

Very important to note that I dont shut it down all the way at night as I have a drafty house and I want to push for more heat

I am burning mixed hard woods with 15" chimney outside the house and 6-7ft double wall stove pipe

ahh, well these stoves will throw heat. I can't shut mine all the way the fire just won't maintain, I have to leave it open about 1/2 inch or so to keep good stove top and flue temps.

 

[Huntindog1]

ahh, well these stoves will throw heat. I can't shut mine all the way the fire just won't maintain, I have to leave it open about 1/2 inch or so to keep good stove top and flue temps.

What I have already noticed that with my Myriad is the air control can really shut the air down. When fully closed my fire will go out.

What I noticed about these stoves is the secondaries are just like lazy flames. I dont really see what I am used to with my other stove, but I go out and look at my flue and no smoke coming out so thats Good.

 

[tekguy]

ahh, well these stoves will throw heat. I can't shut mine all the way the fire just won't maintain, I have to leave it open about 1/2 inch or so to keep good stove top and flue temps.

I leave open maybe an inch normally

I can get good secondary action on a reload of a hot stove that will last ahile depending on the wood loaded..

In order to do so I have to have a good hot coal bed, reload, get wood good and charred - flue temp up high towards 750-800 and then cut it back.. secondaries while fire and burn very well for awhile

otherwise I can get it on the lazy side, with my stove I will have flames off the logs towards the front and secondary action firing towards the back - Usually blue, so at a glance you dont think the secondaries are going unless you really look

still learning stove

 

[Fi-Q]

Nice work !! I have basically the same stove (austral) been birnin since 5 years. I will need to redo the brick in it next summer . 1 broke last season and 4 more this year, the side brick that is. I do love it, my only conplaints is sometime I get lot of smoke coming out when re loading.... But I love this stove, and it is razy how much heat you can get out of these stoves !!

 

[Huntindog1]

Nice work !! I have basically the same stove (austral) been birnin since 5 years. I will need to redo the brick in it next summer . 1 broke last season and 4 more this year, the side brick that is. I do love it, my only conplaints is sometime I get lot of smoke coming out when re loading.... But I love this stove, and it is razy how much heat you can get out of these stoves !!

Make sure you have your bypass open and no smoke will come out. The gap up front is intentionally made small where the smoke rises up above the baffle. This makes the smoke have to travel farther past the baffle to get ignited by the secondary air. The bypass when open provides a short cut path to straight up the flue. I can leave my Myriad door wide open when the bypass is open. It allows a lot of air flow thru the stove.

I agree this stove is puts out alot of heat. Its like the old steel stoves of the past but burns smoke for efficient burns. I have heard stories from guys that had old stoves saying the old stoves could really throw the heat and the their new stoves do not throw heat as well. One story you can look up is from member "mywaynow".

I believe this stove gives a person the best of both worlds.

 

[Huntindog1]

Tekguy , I really like your videos. If you get time put out some more.

I am still trying to get a feel for the secondary action in this stove as its so different than my tube stove I had.

I really have to go out side and look at my flue to see if smoke is coming out as sometimes its hard to tell the secondaries are firing in this stove that used a stainless steel baffle to disperse secondary air in to the smoke path.

I guess its the dancing of the flames look that indicates secondary action. Or lazy flame look.

 

[Hardrockmaple]

Make sure you have your bypass open and no smoke will come out. The gap up front is intentionally made small where the smoke rises up above the baffle. This makes the smoke have to travel farther past the baffle to get ignited by the secondary air. The bypass when open provides a short cut path to straight up the flue. I can leave my Myriad door wide open when the bypass is open. It allows a lot of air flow thru the stove.

I agree this stove is puts out alot of heat. Its like the old steel stoves of the past but burns smoke for efficient burns. I have heard stories from guys that had old stoves saying the old stoves could really throw the heat and the their new stoves do not throw heat as well. One story you can look up is from member "mywaynow".

I believe this stove gives a person the best of both worlds.

I certainly wouldn't try burning with the door wide open. With bi-pass closed and door open a crack I've witnessed flames coming out of the stove and rising up a good 4-5 inches above stop top. On end of cycle reloads I always get a little smoke out of the open door with by-pass open.

 

[realstihl]

I certainly wouldn't try burning with the door wide open. With bi-pass closed and door open a crack I've witnessed flames coming out of the stove and rising up a good 4-5 inches above stop top. On end of cycle reloads I always get a little smoke out of the open door with by-pass open.

That was one of my complaints on the Baltic. I think those need a really strong draft to avoid spillage.

 

[tekguy]

Tekguy , I really like your videos. If you get time put out some more.

I am still trying to get a feel for the secondary action in this stove as its so different than my tube stove I had.

I really have to go out side and look at my flue to see if smoke is coming out as sometimes its hard to tell the secondaries are firing in this stove that used a stainless steel baffle to disperse secondary air in to the smoke path.

I guess its the dancing of the flames look that indicates secondary action. Or lazy flame look.

Its wicked warm here now for February, my fires are just a log here and there to keep the place 70ish and more importantly take that damp feeling away

If I lit a fire like that today we would be roasted out for sure, gonna be 50ish and melt all the snow

Next week when it gets cold again I will try to do a time lapse one somehow through the burn cycle, see how it goes



One thing I have learned and maybe other seasoned users of these stoves can confirm, this baby loves large splits... I started cutting and stacking three years ago and I now know I got split happy, I need to keep my log size more consistent and not be so aggressive splitting stuff

 

[tekguy]

I sometimes get spillage of smoke, other times not.. More so on a colder stove than a hot one.. Important to open bypass damper and crack stove and wait a little while to open door, that seems to help

If I linger and take my time loading I can get spillage also, so I try to be ready to go so to say

Don't throw any logs in until you done doing the rest of your fiddling around

 

[KindredSpiritzz]

One thing I have learned and maybe other seasoned users of these stoves can confirm, this baby loves large splits

now thats a good little tip to know as i start preparing a wood pile for my new stove. Mostly it seems people say smaller splits for other stoves. Sure hope i dont get smoke spillage, i'd be very disappointed if it was a problem.

 

[tekguy]

now thats a good little tip to know as i start preparing a wood pile for my new stove. Mostly it seems people say smaller splits for other stoves. Sure hope i dont get smoke spillage, i'd be very disappointed if it was a problem.

Mix it up, some peoples smalls are other peoples large, I have too many I over split so to say

 

[HotCoals]

Yep big ones for extra long burns for sure.

 

[tekguy]

Yep big ones for extra long burns for sure.

Exactly