Drolet HT3000 vs HT2000

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Yes. There really is no boost air on this stove. All primary air is introduced above the door. This stove is unique in that regard. Primary air is drawn in through the louvre where the slider is.

You can actually see the secondary burn change as you cover or uncover the secondary air intake.
Thanks for the clarification Troy. I've always wanted to burn in one of these stoves for a season. Do you know what they have changed in the HT3000 with the lower air intake now?
I have very good draft and on super cold nights (-20-30*F) the draft can be too much and cause the stove to run hotter than it should. Really dry hard wood also doesn’t help in those conditions.
Is there a key damper on the stove pipe?
 
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Why would you want to limit the secondary air efficiency on this stove? If I shut the primary air on my HT 3000 during any run away event the stove responds back to 300-400 degrees F on the flue. I also agree with the above statements and believe it runs better in the 500-700 degree range for BTU value. Sticking the blower on these stoves are a must. They hold so much heat for so long that its a no brainer. My biggest problem is keeping up with the ash removal and not letting the ash burn out all the way before reload. Its like working with a volcano its always so hot. I run my stove 24/7 so I really don't let it go cold.

I reloaded my HT2000 with 5 splits that did not fill the firebox and it took of like a jet plane....when I heard that sounds as its starts to get hot quick, I dropped the damper down to between 1 & 2 and yet the temperature kept climbing up from 300 to 700+ at stove top temp. At this point, i had so little space left in closing it, it seems the damper along will not choke this stove if I wanted to.....that just seems a little dangerous for any stove but not sure of all EPAs are the same.

If covering that secondary air helps to close down this stove in an emergency then that would be good info to know; for this purpose only though...
 
I reloaded my HT2000 with 5 splits that did not fill the firebox and it took of like a jet plane....when I heard that sounds as its starts to get hot quick, I dropped the damper down to between 1 & 2 and yet the temperature kept climbing up from 300 to 700+ at stove top temp. At this point, i had so little space left in closing it, it seems the damper along will not choke this stove if I wanted to.....that just seems a little dangerous for any stove but not sure of all EPAs are the same.

If covering that secondary air helps to close down this stove in an emergency then that would be good info to know; for this purpose only though...
To reduce drama, try turning down the air sooner and burning thicker splits.
 
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Thanks for the clarification Troy. I've always wanted to burn in one of these stoves for a season. Do you know what they have changed in the HT3000 with the lower air intake now?

Is there a key damper on the stove pipe?
No key damper. Flue is 16’ straight up, double wall stove pipe.

not sure of the HT 3000. Just learned of the stoves existence about two months ago. Very curious to see what has changed. Hope to see one in person soon.
 
I often block the hole partially with a magnet if the stove is running too hot or if I want more control over stove temp.
My preference would be to do this with a key damper rather than restricting secondary air. With only 16' of flue system a runaway is not too likely unless there is operator error.
 
They are good indicators of when the stovetop is hot. Most move a little air, not a lot, so they are only good for subtle enhancement of heat circulation. There are some larger models and stirling engine fans with bigger blades that move more air but they are pricey and not silent.
 
They are good indicators of when the stovetop is hot. Most move a little air, not a lot, so they are only good for subtle enhancement of heat circulation. There are some larger models and stirling engine fans with bigger blades that move more air but they are pricey and not silent.


I'm trying to move some more heat around the house without buying the actual fan that goes to the back of the HT2000. I have a small house and my stove kicks up to 600-650 degrees in temp yet it does not seem to heat the house as much. I think I'm lacking air movement or something...something is not right....trying to figure out what it is..
 
I'm trying to move some more heat around the house without buying the actual fan that goes to the back of the HT2000. I have a small house and my stove kicks up to 600-650 degrees in temp yet it does not seem to heat the house as much. I think I'm lacking air movement or something...something is not right....trying to figure out what it is..
What is the layout of the house? Can you post a quick sketch?
 
What is the layout of the house? Can you post a quick sketch?

pretty simple layout. Its an L shape with no interior walls - open concept. The main door located at the center of the house and wood stove is in front of the door as you enter -between the living room (on the right) and dinning room/kitchen (on the left). On the left side ( in the dinning area) is the stairs leading to the second floor.

The heat output from the HT2000 seem much more mild compared to the Fisher, making more bearable. But for some reason, the HT2000 could be at 600 for two hours or so and the upstairs temp does not seem to change much. I know it takes a while but seems too slow to heat the second floor at that temp. makes me wonder what;s going on....
 

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As a test, put a basic table fan at the top of the stairs, on the floor pointing downward. Measure upstairs hall temp before turning the fan on. Then measure again after the fan has been running for 30 minutes.
 
Looks like the HT3000 is on sale for $1400 at BMR in Canada.

I'm planning on replacing my current stove (late 80's SeeFire) in the next year or two. Is this worth jumping on? I'm not in a rush and can wait out on deals, particularly if they begin clearing our pre-2020 stoves at big discounts.

 
Also just noticed they went from a left-hand hinge on the 2000 to a right-hand on the 3000. I would have preferred left-hand, but not the end of the world I guess. I wonder what would precipitate such a change?
 
My old Osburn was a left side hinge and my new Drolet right. I thought I wouldn't care for the new set up as much but after having it 10 months I don't even notice.
 
As a test, put a basic table fan at the top of the stairs, on the floor pointing downward. Measure upstairs hall temp before turning the fan on. Then measure again after the fan has been running for 30 minutes.

Hey Begree, I found a good method that works. I have a vent above the stove that is open to the second floor. I always kept it open to get the hot air to rise from it but it is too small for any real significant difference. However, after your suggestion, I decided to place a small fan that is heat activated, pointing downward. The cool air from the second floor is pushed down towards the stove and the hot air is being pulled up from the stairs. It seems it is creating a current and the warmer air is being felt in the second floor a little quicker. It still takes time for the second floor to warm up but much faster then before.

It works and satisfied with the results. THANKS
 
I’m looking at big stoves for my 40x68 shop., I see I can get a HT2000 for around $1100 plus $60 in tax. The HT3000 is $1350 plus tax. Decisions decisions...
 
I’m looking at big stoves for my 40x68 shop., I see I can get a HT2000 for around $1100 plus $60 in tax. The HT3000 is $1350 plus tax. Decisions decisions...
My ht2000 is a heating beast and hold coals forever during 40 degrees weather during the day its heats my house on 24 hour cycles like a bk but i guess its probably my setup coals heat all day and starts right back up 24 hrs later
 
My ht2000 is a heating beast and hold coals forever during 40 degrees weather during the day its heats my house on 24 hour cycles like a bk but i guess its probably my setup coals heat all day and starts right back up 24 hrs later
Being up here where it gets very cold I don’t think I’d heat the shop in the coldest months of the year so I’m thinking if it’s 20 or above I would heat it, anything colder it’d take too much wood or gas to heat the large building.
 
Being up here where it gets very cold I don’t think I’d heat the shop in the coldest months of the year so I’m thinking if it’s 20 or above I would heat it, anything colder it’d take too much wood or gas to heat the large building.

Are you by chance using the blower that comes with the HT2000? It seems that certain setups will require the fan to improve circulation. I had circulation issues with th2000 making it seem ineffective in heating my 1,100 sq ft home. I placed a fan on a vent above the stove and it did better. However, when I placed another fan behind the stove blow openings, my place got really warn fast and stayed warm even when the stove dropped below 300. the fan made a big difference in keeping the house feel warmer. Before that, the house felt cold and need to keep adding wood at or before 300.

The HT2000 is a great stove and always good to know that for some, a fan will be required while for others it may not be necessary.
 
I haven’t gotten a large stove for the building yet, I’m thinking I’ll get it for next winter since I just built the shop and I still need to insulate it and do the inside sheathing but I’m sure I’d get the fan for the stove. I’m looking at a WoodPro 2500 stove also, it’s a large stove that includes a fan for about $950 and it puts out 110,000 BTU similar to the HT2000.
 
I am thinking about purchaisng one of theses stoves. I have a 8" flues pipe, i havent measured it yet but the stove sits in the middle of my house in the basement and my pipe runs straight up my upper floor, attic and probably 4' out of the roof. Since this stove calls for a 6" and i have seen a few people comment about running a some set up as mine would i be ok? I just had to take back my englander and i dont want to have to go through this again.
 
I am thinking about purchaisng one of theses stoves. I have a 8" flues pipe, i havent measured it yet but the stove sits in the middle of my house in the basement and my pipe runs straight up my upper floor, attic and probably 4' out of the roof. Since this stove calls for a 6" and i have seen a few people comment about running a some set up as mine would i be ok? I just had to take back my englander and i dont want to have to go through this again.
IIRC you had to take the 50SSW02 back for a manufacturing defect. We don't see many of them being reported in the Drolet line.