Drolet HT3000 vs HT2000

[sicaire]

Right now I have the JA roby ultimate tor in my basment..heat my 3250 sq ft very good and from night to morning.. But Im about to sell my house and get into a new one, im torn between buying either the ht2000 for good reviews, ht3000 or simply going back with an other Ja roby ultimate . Only thing I dont like about the Roby is it let out bit of smokes sometimes when I reload it .

I was able to get 12-14 hours of heat (last hours had my flue temp in the 200) . Do you feel the HT3000 will be able to heat all night long till morning? If you try it out, let us know.

 

[hondabacon]

Burning black ash with decent size and the correct moisture content 10-12 hrs shouldn’t be a problem. 14 hrs is a stretch. This is feasible
mostly due to the fire box size being > than 3.0 c.f.

From the manual: “A longer burning time is not necessarily an indication of efficient operation. It is preferable to build a smaller fire that will provide three or four hours of heating than to fully load the firebox for a much longer burn. Shorter burn cycles make it easier to match the heat output of the stove to heat demand for space.” We don’t always have the opportunity to baby sit it every 3-4 hrs though.
I’m getting an easy 6hrs with 6-7chunks of some pretty small stuff crisscrossing. I like to create some air pockets for the secondary burn to dance across most of the tubes.

 

[rtrev37]

It will put out some heat for sure we had a mild winter and before I got the hang of the stove i had to open a window a few times burn times got me though the night and could liad some wood and it would take off

2018 drolet ht2000

Hey Trey O know you have the HT2000 and wanted some info if you can share. I primed and got my HT200 running after a few fires incrementally up to 500. On my last burn, I put in about 5 medium size logs and it took off and settled at 700. It lasted about 3 hours with the damper down at 2/3 or on the second to last of the dial. Question
1: At what temperature do you start closing down your damper on the HT2000? It seem I could have closed it all the way down and it would still be going for a while, although I did not do it.
2: At what temperature does your HT2000 settles before going down? Not sure if 700 is too high or normal. I am using a stove top magnetic thermometer simply because I do not care to male a whole inside my double wall pipes. The temperature before this settled between 500-600 which was nice but wondered if the HT2000 works much better when the initial temperature is very high before damping down.

The heat output on the HT2000 is definitely much different from the old Fisher stove I had. the Fisher at 500 was good and at 600 too much due to the radiate heat it put out. The HT2000 at 600 was nice and even 700 was bearable due to its partial convection heat, although not sure if I would like to get it up that high again unless I'm sure its not over heating.

Thanks Trey...any info will help.

 

[T-roy_]

700 is not too hot. Mine will run up to 750+ on a full hot reload, sometimes even a little more. Especially when outside temps are -10 to -20*F.
I start cutting primary air when flue temps hit about 400* measured with a probe type thermo. Flue temp is really a better indicator on when to start cutting air.

 

[rtrev37]

700 is not too hot. Mine will run up to 750+ on a full hot reload, sometimes even a little more. Especially when outside temps are -10 to -20*F.
I start cutting primary air when flue temps hit about 400* measured with a probe type thermo. Flue temp is really a better indicator on when to start cutting air.

Thank you. I was just reading on how the probe tells you more of what is really occurring over the stop top temp. How the probe would be a lot hotter then the stove top. I will look into this...i'm a newbie on all these EPA's stoves and double wall pipes...

Anyone knows a good brand name for a double wall probe therm?....not sure which one to get?

 

[begreen]

Thank you. I was just reading on how the probe tells you more of what is really occurring over the stop top temp. How the probe would be a lot hotter then the stove top. I will look into this...i'm a newbie on all these EPA's stoves and double wall pipes...

Anyone knows a good brand name for a double wall probe therm?....not sure which one to get?

Condar

 

[rtrev37]

Condar

Thanks Begreen..,,, where is this probe therm placed on the double wall?....I have an 18" with a 90 degree on top of that then another 12" or so going into the wall....

 

[begreen]

Sounds like a couple of inches below the elbow is the best you can do. The reading may be a little high. The 90 + horiz. run will slow down the flue gases a bit. You may need to tweak the suggested procedure accordingly.

 

[T-roy_]

Mine is SBI. Same manufacturer as my stove.

 

[Trey1979]

Hey Trey O know you have the HT2000 and wanted some info if you can share. I primed and got my HT200 running after a few fires incrementally up to 500. On my last burn, I put in about 5 medium size logs and it took off and settled at 700. It lasted about 3 hours with the damper down at 2/3 or on the second to last of the dial. Question
1: At what temperature do you start closing down your damper on the HT2000? It seem I could have closed it all the way down and it would still be going for a while, although I did not do it.
2: At what temperature does your HT2000 settles before going down? Not sure if 700 is too high or normal. I am using a stove top magnetic thermometer simply because I do not care to male a whole inside my double wall pipes. The temperature before this settled between 500-600 which was nice but wondered if the HT2000 works much better when the initial temperature is very high before damping down.

The heat output on the HT2000 is definitely much different from the old Fisher stove I had. the Fisher at 500 was good and at 600 too much due to the radiate heat it put out. The HT2000 at 600 was nice and even 700 was bearable due to its partial convection heat, although not sure if I would like to get it up that high again unless I'm sure its not over heating.

Thanks Trey...any info will help.

If i dont want mine cranking at 700 i start cutting air sooner like last night i ran a full load at 350 to 400 sst i started turning it down when my single wall got about 350 ..but if i wanted a hot fire i let it get to cooking to like 500 single wall flue temp before turning it down in increments .

 

[Trey1979]

I do my throttle going by my pipe temp i have single wall i use a ir gun some but most the time i just go by looking at the fire

 

[rtrev37]

If i dont want mine cranking at 700 i start cutting air sooner like last night i ran a full load at 350 to 400 sst i started turning it down when my single wall got about 350 ..but if i wanted a hot fire i let it get to cooking to like 500 single wall flue temp before turning it down in increments .

Funny you mentioned that and glad you did. I was wondering the "what if..." last night when I reloaded. I could hear the stove starting to take off.... it was about 300 and I just turned it down while wondered if I should have let it increase in temp before I did so. It ended at 500 which is at nice level for me (Any where between 500-600) and that was with only 3 medium size splits about the size of my forearms. I had it tuned down really low between 1 and 2... The bad thing about this damper is that is has no real marking to let you know where is 2, 3 or 4.

I just cant imagine how yall can fill and stack it and not get to 1000...lol Personally, I think the HT2000 was meant to operate at the 700 then decrease but that gets me a little nervous. This stove can take off and put out a lot of heat at those high tempts and seem to be able to take it well. I think the probe therm will help in deciding when it's time to turn it down.

It also seems a 700 temp would last a lot longer oppose to cutting it off early to reach only 500 but i'm still guessing and learning.

I will take a look at the SBI and compare to Condar. It seem all the same and starting to over think on these simple matters. As I read up on it, it talks about THE PROBE letting me know if the stove is burning to high but the fact is, the HT 2000 seem it has no cut off switch if the temp kept rising. I have the impression turning down the damper to the left at level 1 will not close it off completely but only slow it down and aggravate the situation even more. With the old Fisher, I could close and choke it BUT NOT SO with the HT2000. Maybe I'll try it and see what happens.

 

[MAD MARK]

The 3000 definitely looks better and having the air lever on the bottom seems a better spot IMO.

 

[T-roy_]

The secondary air inlet “hole” is underneath the ash lip centered on the body of the stove. If things are getting away from me I have a magnet that I can slide over the secondary air inlet to slow things down a bit. The magnet is big enough to cover the inlet completely if need be.

 

[hondabacon]

Looks like Drolet is having a promotion where you get a free blower with the purchase of a HT 3000.
(broken link removed to https://www.drolet.ca/en/promotions/claim-promotion/?promo=1310)

 

[rtrev37]

Looks like Drolet is having a promotion where you get a free blower with the purchase of a HT 3000.
(broken link removed to https://www.drolet.ca/en/promotions/claim-promotion/?promo=1310)

They had a monetary rebate for those who purchased an HT2000 in August as well. The best part is, its simply having purchased the item not necessarily the item with them. So if you bought an HT3000 in the same month of the rebate or promotion from Lowes or any other company, you can still claim your promo thru SBI and get the free blower.

 

[Trey1979]

The secondary air inlet “hole” is underneath the ash lip centered on the body of the stove. If things are getting away from me I have a magnet that I can slide over the secondary air inlet to slow things down a bit. The magnet is big enough to cover the inlet completely if need be.

This is so cool i just lit my stove and noticed a little smoke coming from what i thought was the ash pan upon lookin under the stove i noticed a square hole i took a picture and came on hearth to ask what it was i seen comments on this thread and found my answer how cool is that and i had a picture

 

[Trey1979]

Funny you mentioned that and glad you did. I was wondering the "what if..." last night when I reloaded. I could hear the stove starting to take off.... it was about 300 and I just turned it down while wondered if I should have let it increase in temp before I did so. It ended at 500 which is at nice level for me (Any where between 500-600) and that was with only 3 medium size splits about the size of my forearms. I had it tuned down really low between 1 and 2... The bad thing about this damper is that is has no real marking to let you know where is 2, 3 or 4.

I just cant imagine how yall can fill and stack it and not get to 1000...lol Personally, I think the HT2000 was meant to operate at the 700 then decrease but that gets me a little nervous. This stove can take off and put out a lot of heat at those high tempts and seem to be able to take it well. I think the probe therm will help in deciding when it's time to turn it down.

It also seems a 700 temp would last a lot longer oppose to cutting it off early to reach only 500 but i'm still guessing and learning.

I will take a look at the SBI and compare to Condar. It seem all the same and starting to over think on these simple matters. As I read up on it, it talks about THE PROBE letting me know if the stove is burning to high but the fact is, the HT 2000 seem it has no cut off switch if the temp kept rising. I have the impression turning down the damper to the left at level 1 will not close it off completely but only slow it down and aggravate the situation even more. With the old Fisher, I could close and choke it BUT NOT SO with the HT2000. Maybe I'll try it and see what happens.

This is my second year heating with it mine burns great even on 30% wood as long as it dont smoke out my glass im good i can clean my stack in 20 to 30 minutes but im cutting my wood for next year now and i have a big ass pile

 

[rtrev37]

This is so cool i just lit my stove and noticed a little smoke coming from what i thought was the ash pan upon lookin under the stove i noticed a square hole i took a picture and came on hearth to ask what it was i seen comments on this thread and found my answer how cool is that and i had a picture

Is this on your HT2000? where is it and what is it for?....I know they have the opening for the ash clean out inside the firebox that leads to the ash pan but I don't think you are referring to that.

 

[rtrev37]

This is my second year heating with it mine burns great even on 30% wood as long as it dont smoke out my glass im good i can clean my stack in 20 to 30 minutes but im cutting my wood for next year now and i have a big ass pile

My wood is dry enough, that my glass does not even get dark or smudged on the edges, even on low combustion. I still have to check my chimney in a week or two after continuous burning to ensure all is good. I'm at or below 15%. The new stack I bought this year is at 25%, some lower and some a bit higher. but I'll still use it if I need to but don't think I will. At 25%, it would not burn well in my old Fisher stove but think it had more to do with the set-up more than the %.

Enjoy the splitting...a time well worth spent that few understand and enjoy.

 

[T-roy_]

Is this on your HT2000? where is it and what is it for?....I know they have the opening for the ash clean out inside the firebox that leads to the ash pan but I don't think you are referring to that.

That is the secondary air intake. It is located under the ash lip on the body of the stove. If you have a run away stove you can plug that hole to stop any secondary air from entering the stove. I often block the hole partially with a magnet if the stove is running too hot or if I want more control over stove temp.

 

[begreen]

The secondary air inlet “hole” is underneath the ash lip centered on the body of the stove. If things are getting away from me I have a magnet that I can slide over the secondary air inlet to slow things down a bit. The magnet is big enough to cover the inlet completely if need be.

Are you sure that's not the boost air inlet, instead of the secondary air?

 

[T-roy_]

Yes. There really is no boost air on this stove. All primary air is introduced above the door. This stove is unique in that regard. Primary air is drawn in through the louvre where the slider is.

You can actually see the secondary burn change as you cover or uncover the secondary air intake.

 

[hondabacon]

Why would you want to limit the secondary air efficiency on this stove? If I shut the primary air on my HT 3000 during any run away event the stove responds back to 300-400 degrees F on the flue. I also agree with the above statements and believe it runs better in the 500-700 degree range for BTU value. Sticking the blower on these stoves are a must. They hold so much heat for so long that its a no brainer. My biggest problem is keeping up with the ash removal and not letting the ash burn out all the way before reload. Its like working with a volcano its always so hot. I run my stove 24/7 so I really don't let it go cold.

 

[T-roy_]

Why would you want to limit the secondary air efficiency on this stove? If I shut the primary air on my HT 3000 during any run away event the stove responds back to 300-400 degrees F on the flue. I also agree with the above statements and believe it runs better in the 500-700 degree range for BTU value. Sticking the blower on these stoves are a must. They hold so much heat for so long that its a no brainer. My biggest problem is keeping up with the ash removal and not letting the ash burn out all the way before reload. Its like working with a volcano its always so hot. I run my stove 24/7 so I really don't let it go cold.

I have very good draft and on super cold nights (-20-30*F) the draft can be too much and cause the stove to run hotter than it should. Really dry hard wood also doesn’t help in those conditions.